Soap Flashcards

1
Q

Superfat

A

Soap recipes are formulated so that some oils remain after the saponification process (the conversion of oil into soap) has finished; this residual oil is known as the superfat content. Ensuring that oil remains is a safety measure to make sure all lye is used up during the chemical reaction (saponification) between the lye water and oil; extra oil also adds a moisturizing boost to the soap and ensures that vitamins and other oil nutrients are still viable. This is also called lye discounting.

Laundry bars can have a superfat as low as 1-2%. Most body bars are best with a superfat content of 5%. Face bars can benefit from a higher superfat of 15%.

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2
Q

Trace

A

“Coming to trace” is a term frequently used in soapmaking; it describes the beginning of the saponification reaction, in which the soap begins to visibly thicken. The term trace comes from the slight line or trace that can be seen when the soap that is beginning to thicken is drizzled over the top of the still-liquid soap. As the soap thickens, the trace line becomes thicker.

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3
Q

How hot does the water get from the exothermic reaction between the water an lye?

A

93 C

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4
Q

What is lye?

A

Sodium Hydroxide

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5
Q

What is the ph of lye?

A

14

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6
Q

What is the normal ph of soap

A

between 9 and 10

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7
Q

Apricot kernal oil

A

moisturising, conditioning, stable and creamy lather

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8
Q

argan oil

A

conditioning, moisturising, adds hardness, stable and creamy lather

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9
Q

Avocado oil

A

conditioning, stable and creamy lather

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10
Q

Babassu oil

A

Cleansing, adds hardness, high bubbles

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11
Q

Castor oil

A

Conditioning, moisturising, creamy lather, high stable bubbles

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12
Q

Cocao butter

A

Conditioning, moisturing, stable and creamy lather, adds hardness.

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13
Q

Coconut oil

A

Cleansing, adds hardness, High lather, high stable bubbles

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14
Q

Grapeseed oil

A

Conditioning

Stable and creamy lather

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15
Q

Hazelnut oil

A

Cleansing
moisturizing
stable and creamy lather

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16
Q

Hemp seed oil

A

Conditioning

Low lather

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17
Q

Jojoba

A

Conditioning
Moisturizing
Stable and creamy lather

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18
Q

Lard

A

Conditioning
Adds hardness
Stable and creamy lather

19
Q

Macadamia nut oil

A

Conditioning
adds hardness
creamy lather

20
Q

Mango butter

A

Conditioning, moisturinzing, creamy lather, adds hardness

21
Q

Neem oil

A

conditioning, adds hardness, moisturizing, stabe and creamy lather

22
Q

Olive oil

A

Low cleansing

Conditioning

23
Q

Shea butter

A

conditioning
adds hardness
stable creamy lather

24
Q

sweet almond oil

A

stable creamy lather

25
Tallow
``` cleansing conditioning adds hardness stable and creamy lather high stable bubbles ```
26
How to incorporate herbs into soap?
replace water with herbal tea use infused oils add powdered herbs at trace (1 teaspoon per pound) add herbs to top of bar after pouring
27
When to add essential oils?
after trace and before pouring
28
Red
quater cup Tomato puree added at trace. Discounted from water.
29
Pink/Red
2 teaspoons of Rose clay added to lye water
30
Pink
3 teaspoons Madder root added to lye water
31
Purple
half a teaspoon of alkanet powder added at trace
32
Blue
replace 15 ml oil with infused WOAD oil
33
Green
1 teaspoon of spirulina added to the lye replace 15 ml of oil with infused parsley oil
34
Yellow
replace 15 ml of oil with infused tumeric oil
35
Yellow/Orange
replace 15 ml of oil with infused Annatto oil
36
Orange gold
quater cup pumpkin puree added at trace (discount water)
37
Orange
2 table spoons of Morrocan clay at trace
38
Brown
1 table spoon of Cacao at trace 2 table spoons of cinnamon at trace
39
Blueish/grey/black
2 teaspoons of activated charcoal at trace
40
What is the standard amount of water in soap
35-38%
41
What is the most ideal temperature when combining oil and lye
40 C
42
How long should soap be cured for?
4 to 6 weeks
43
When should soap be discarded
Liquid oozing from soap - inacurate ratios/false trace Hard chalky soap that crumbles when cut - too much lye White powdery pockets throughout soap -too much lye
44
What is soda ash?
This is known as soda ash, and is purely a cosmetic defect; the soap is perfectly fine to use. It’s the result of contact between unsaponified lye and carbon dioxide in the air, so covering your soap with plastic wrap or curing in a closed plastic tub may help with future batches. It’s also more likely to occur when soap is produced in cold working areas, and when using tap water in your soap (Berry, 2018). To remove the ash, you can gently rub the top of the cured soap under running water (while wearing gloves), or use a potato peeler or knife to gently remove the top layer.