Humectants

Question 1

What are humectants?

Answer 1

Humectants are moisturizing agents that form hydrogen bonds with water molecules in the skin, pulling moisture from the dermis to the stratum corneum and increasing surface-layer hydration (Brannon, 2018; Pontillo, 2011). Humectants are used to moisturize and soften the skin, and they also volumize the hair by expanding the hair shaft

Question 2

Name 3 commonly used humectants

Answer 2

Aloe
Honey
Clycerine

Question 3

Aloe:

Answer 3

In addition to acting as a humectant, aloe (Aloe vera) leaf has anti-inflammatory properties, and can help soothe acne-prone skin (Brannon, 2018). It’s also an emollient with antimicrobial properties (Pontillo, 2011).

Skin care recipes may call for either aloe juice or aloe gel; both are cooling and anti-inflammatory, though aloe gel is generally more concentrated, and consequently may be a more effective humectant. If you’re purchasing commercial aloe gel, make sure to get 100% aloe gel, and check the label for any of the preservatives or other synthetic ingredients you’re trying to avoid!

Question 4

Honey

Answer 4

Honey is a natural humectant, and aside from containing vitamins and minerals, raw honey is soothing and highly antimicrobial (Israili, 2014), protecting the skin from bacterial damage. Clinical research has demonstrated that honey can aid in the healing of burns, fungal infections, and inflammatory skin disorders (McLoone et al., 2016). Honey can be applied on wounds to help clear infection and aid in tissue healing, and it is also an excellent addition to masks, scrubs (look for honey with a bit of honeycomb left in the jar for the perfect exfoliant!), cleansers, and even creams and lotions, and can benefit a wide variety of skin types.

Question 5

What are the sustainabillity issues around honey

Answer 5

Bees work very hard to produce honey, with each colony visiting over two million flowers to produce just 1 pound of honey (Siegel, 2011). While honey has been a food and skin care product for humans for millennia, our impact on the environment means that we cannot take it—or honeybees—for granted. In 2016, United Nations researchers reported that 40% of bees, butterflies, and other pollinating insects are facing extinction, which has powerful and far-reaching implications for the world food supply, with honey just the tip of the iceberg (Potts et al., 2016). With respect for bees and ecology in mind, choose local, humanely gathered honey and beeswax from small-scale beekeeping operations whenever possible.

Question 6

Which honey is best for the skn?

Answer 6

Raw honey should be sought out for skin care preparations, since pasteurized honey may lose many of its antimicrobial benefits (R. Gladstar, personal communication, 2010).

For added protection against acne and other skin troubles, many herbalists and makers of natural products use raw manuka honey, a honey produced by bees from the nectar of manuka tree (Leptospermum scoparium) flowers. Manuka honey has been shown to be especially antioxidant and antimicrobial—some research has even demonstrated its usefulness against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) (Alvarez-Suarez et al., 2014), and its vulnerary properties and positive effect on dermatitis have been documented (McLoone et al., 2016). Another popular honey amongst skin care product makers and researchers is kanuka honey, a honey produced by bees from the nectar ofkanuka tree (Kunzea ericoides) flowers. Clinical research indicates that kanuka honey may be helpful for rosacea, psoriasis, and cold sores (McLoone et al., 2016).

Question 7

When is honey contraindicated?

Answer 7

Children under 1 year of age should not consume honey or have it applied to their skin, due to the risk of infant botulism.

Question 8

Glycerine

Answer 8

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a bit more complicated than the emulsifiers discussed above. It can be derived from both animal fats and plant sources, such as coconut oil. The fats undergo a process that separates the fatty acids, leaving behind the glycerol, which, due to its chemical structure, is technically considered an alcohol (Bone, 2003).

There is some debate about glycerin. While some sources state that its alcohol classification makes glycerin a good preservative (Green, 2002; Mills, 1991), other sources call it a poor preservative, prone to causing bacteria and mold growth in long-standing preparations (Bone, 2003; Felter & Lloyd, 1905).

There’s also some conflicting information about whether or not glycerin is actually beneficial to the skin, with some sources calling it an irritant of the mucosa and skin (Bone, 2003), causing water to leave tissues and resulting in inflammation, dryness, and cracking (Felter & Lloyd, 1905). Other sources deem that in certain doses and diluted with water, “glycerin is a demulcent and emollient, lubricating, soothing, and protecting the skin and mucous membranes” (Green, 2002, p. 90).

Many store-bought lotions and creams include vegetable glycerin, and it’s also found on recipe lists for homemade skin products. Although glycerin can be included in skin care preparations, it should always be diluted with water or other liquids.