Gels Flashcards

1
Q

hydrocolloids.

A

The term hydrocolloid is derived from the Greek words hydro (water) and kolla (glue) (Wüstenberg, 2015) and simply refers to a substance that forms a gel when combined with water.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
2
Q

benefits of gels

A

When applied externally, hydrocolloids act as emollients that soften, soothe, and hydrate the skin and mucous membranes.

They hold moisture on the skin’s surface and protect localized tissues, acting as a barrier to environmental pathogens. This barrier quality allows them to hold other herbal constituents on the skin’s surface for a longer period of time, a trait enhanced by suspending astringent herbs in gel solutions; according to herbalists Kerry Bone and Simon Mills, “in modern clinical application, suspensions of decoctions of high-tannin herbs in gum tragacanth or gum arabic can produce impressive healing effects in open wounds and skin lesions” (Bone & Mills, 2013, p.141).

Ultimately, gel formulas are an excellent delivery method for herbs to support many topical conditions, particularly for wound healing and scar repair;

with the addition of antispasmodic and/or anodyne herbs, gels can also be formulated for pain management and nervous system support.

Although they are not technically emulsifiers, as they do not have any lipophilic molecules to bind specifically to oils, hydrocolloids are often used in cosmetic creams to stabilize emulsions, in conjunction with other emulsifying agents (Wüstenberg, 2015).

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
3
Q

Different catagories of hydrocolloids

A

Hydrocolloids are classified into four major groups:

hydrocolloids purely isolated from plants (without chemical modification),

plant-derived hydrocolloids that are chemically modified,

hydrocolloids obtained by fermentation,

hydrocolloids from animal species.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
4
Q

What is the main source of carrageenan extract?

A

Irish moss (Chondrus crispus): Irish moss is a species of seaweed harvested off of the Atlantic coasts of Europe and North America with small, reddish-purple to reddish-green fronds (“leaves”) that grow in a fan-like manner (Pitchford, 2002). The excellent thickening quality of Irish moss is due to the abundance of the polysaccharide carrageenan within its fronds. Refined and powdered, Irish moss is one of the easier hydrocolloids to source for home use, and requires less powder by weight than some other hydrocolloids to form a firm gel.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
5
Q

What is Xanthan gum derived from

A

Xanthan gum: Xanthan gum is derived from bacterial fermentation of glucose or sucrose and has been used as a commercial thickening agent since the 1970s (Wüstenberg, 2015). The refined, off-white powder makes gels firm up quickly with the aid of an immersion blender; it works well if added to formulas once they are at room temperature.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
6
Q

What are the 3 categories of hydrocolloids purely isolated from plants (without chemical modification),

A
  • exudates,
  • seed flours,
  • extracts
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
7
Q

What are exudates?

A

Protective substances deposited in plant’s wounds

Ghatti gum
gum Arrabic
Karaya gum
Tragacanth

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
8
Q

What are extracts?

A

substances that provide structural support

Cellulose
Agar -Agar
Alginate
Carrageenan
Furcellaran
Larch Arabinogalactan
Pectins
Starches
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
9
Q

What are seed flours?

A

Reserve polysacherides

Guar gum
locust bean gum
Tara gum
Tamarind seed gum

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
10
Q

Which plant derived hydrocolloids are chemically modified?

A
Amidated pectin
Cellulose derivatives
Modified starches
Propolyne glycol
Alginate
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
11
Q

Which hydrocolloids are obtained by fermentation?

A
Curdlan
Dextran
Gellan
Pullulan
Scleroglucan
Xanthan
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
12
Q

Which hydrocolloids are obtainde from animal species

A

Gelatin

Caseinates

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
13
Q

What is gum arabic?

A

Gum arabic: Gum arabic is sourced from the hardened sap of various tree species; it was originally sourced from Acacia senegal and is also called acacia gum. It is frequently used in foods as a stabilizer and emulsifier, and it is also used as a binder in paints, glues, and glazes. Acacia gum contains the immune-active polysaccharide arabinogalactan, so it could theoretically help enhance immune response through the complement system (Bovo et al., 2016)—though when it comes to gel-making this is mostly just an interesting sidenote, since the amount of acacia gum used is unlikely to have a significant immune effect.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
14
Q

What is Guar gum?

A

Guar gum (Cyamopsis tetragonoloba): Guar gum is the powdered endosperm from the seeds of the guar or cluster bean, which is often used as a thickener and binder in commercial foods. Like other types of soluble fiber, guar gum acts as a bulking laxative by absorbing water in the gastrointestinal (GI) tract. Consequently, extremely high amounts of guar gum can swell enough as they move through the digestive tract to cause significant digestive problems, which is why there are U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA)-mandated limits on the amount of guar gum that can be used in foods (Link, 2017). For most people, small amounts of guar gum are safe and have no side effects, although for those with an especially sensitive GI tract, it may cause gas, bloating, or digestive discomfort (Kresser, 2017).

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
15
Q

What is Agar Agar?

A

Agar-agar: Agar-agar is obtained from the cell walls of some species of red seaweeds, collectively classified as agarophytes. The most common species used to produce agar-agar are species in the Geldium genus, which primarily come from the Pacific coast of the United States, Japan, and Chile (Wüstenberg, 2015). These seaweeds have been used for hundreds of years in China and Japan, serving as thickeners in household cooking, somewhat like gelatin (Pitchford, 2002).

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
16
Q

What is adragante?

A

Adragante gum: Adragante gum, also known as tragacanth or adragante, is obtained from plants in the Astragalus genus—thorny shrubs thriving best in the semidesert. It is a favorite among French cosmetic crafters and is often used in the production of creams, lotions, and toothpaste (Duvernell, 2009-2010). This gum is considered the highest grade on the market (Beach, 1954).

17
Q

Why do hydrocolloids swell when in contact with water?

A

Chemically, hydrocolloids contain molecules with several hydrophilic groups, and when added to any water-based (polar) solvent, they will collect and trap hydrogen molecules, which is what causes them to swell and thicken.

18
Q

Are hydrocolloids soluble in alcohol?

A

Hydrocolloids are not soluble in alcohol, so adding them to a high-alcohol tincture usually causes the polysaccharides to precipitate out of solution; instead, they’re likely to form a cloudy mass that sinks to the bottom of the vessel and refuses to dissolve.

19
Q

Formulation percentage: Irish moss

A

0.5 - 1.5%

20
Q

Formulation percentage: Xantham gum

A

0.3 - 2%

21
Q

Formulation percentage:Gum Arabic

A

1 - 10%

no noticable thickness untill 5%

22
Q

Formulation percentage:Guar Gum

A

0.5 -5%

23
Q

Formulation percentage:Adragante gum

A

0.5 - 2%

24
Q

Formulation percentage:Agar Agar

A

0.1 - 0.5%

needs to be boiled for 1 - 2 minutes before adding.

25
Q

shelf life of hydrocolloids?

A

If stored in a cool, dry place in an airtight container, hydrocolloid powders can last for 3 years or longer. However, when combined with other ingredients, preservatives are required; water-based ingredients invite bacterial growth and need a preservative system that includes antimicrobials, while oil-based ingredients require antioxidants to reduce the risk of oxidation.

26
Q

What to do if your formula isn’t thickening into a gel, or if the powdered hydrocolloid is not blending with the other ingredients

A

Temperature: If your formula isn’t thickening into a gel, or if the powdered hydrocolloid is not blending with the other ingredients in your formula, try warming up the formula either in a warm water bath, using heat-proof glassware, and stirring as you warm. Some hydrocolloids like agar-agar dissolve better in warm or even boiling water (Duvernell, 2009-2010). Remember that the formula will continue to thicken as it cools, so you won’t be able to gauge the final texture until it has cooled back to room temperature.

27
Q

What to do when the gel’s consistency is not as desired?

A

Thickness: Once your gel formula has cooled to room temperature, you may find that the consistency of the gel is not quite what you had in mind. If it is not thick enough, add more of your chosen hydrocolloid in small amounts until you achieve the desired thickness. If it is too thick, add more water, or your chosen water-based solvent, to loosen the thickness of the gel.

28
Q

What to do when there are clumps in the gel?

A

Clumping: When the hydrocolloid powder is first added to water, it has a tendency to clump together, even after blending the mixture thoroughly. Simply set the mixture aside and allow the hydrocolloid molecules the time they need to bond with the hydrogen, and then blend again. Repeat this process a few times until the powder has completely dissolved in the water.

29
Q

When adding oil to gels or when adding gels to lotions

A

Emulsions: Only blend oils into a gel formula once all water-based ingredients have been combined and the hydrocolloid has been added and completely dissolved.

30
Q

What is the shelf life of a plain gel without preservatives

A

approx 1 month

31
Q

What are the best way to preserve gels

A

15 % alcohol
leucidal
refrigiration

32
Q

Which gel makes a good hair gel?

A

flax seed