Creams, butters and lotions Flashcards
Benefits of creams, lotions and butters
Not only is dry skin uncomfortable, it’s an indication that the skin’s barrier function may not be optimal. Moisture-rich creams, lotions, and butters can soothe symptoms of imbalance, nourish the cells of the skin, and help restore barrier integrity.
The stratum corneum is made up of corneocytes, which, as you learned in Unit 1, are filled with keratin (a fibrous protein) and natural moisturizing factor (NMF), the latter of which helps regulate the skin’s moisture by attracting and holding water toward the center of corneocytes (Burns et al., 2010). Loss of water in the corneocytes can result in dryness and skin damage. The fatty acids and other nutrients that are present in the carrier oils and butters discussed in Lesson 1 of this unit can supplement NMF components and help to maintain healthy moisture levels in the stratum corneum. While applying carrier oils and butters on their own helps to keep the skin well-lubricated, combining them with water-based ingredients is also a tried-and-true method of supplying the skin with moisture.
Difference between lotions and creams?
Lotions are considered hydrophilic skin moisturizers. Hydrophilic moisturizers penetrate the entirety of the stratum corneum. They contain a higher water content than creams, making it easier for lotions to make their way through the brick and mortar cellular structure of the top layer of the epidermis (Caussin et al., 2009). Lotions are usually less oily than creams, are easier to rub into the skin, and are often recommended for mild to moderate dryness (Mills, 1991).
Creams and body butters, on the other hand, are generally considered lipophilic skin preparations. Lipophilic moisturizers also absorb into the skin, but don’t penetrate as deeply as hydrophilic moisturizers. They contain more oil and/or waxes than lotions, making it easier for them to sit on the top layers of the stratum corneum, creating a protective layer for skin that is severely dry, inflamed, or damaged (Caussin et al., 2009).
If a lotion or cream is too thin,
that’s an indication that there is too much water relative to the amount of oil. This will require an adjustment to the water-to-oil ratio. It is difficult to thicken a watery lotion; however, the lotion may be salvageable if more oil is added. Be sure the oil and lotion are the same temperature, then add oil very slowly, as adding too much (or too quickly) may cause the lotion to separate.
If the lotion or cream is too thick,
increase the amount of water-based ingredients in the recipe. Slowly drizzling more water-based liquid into the emulsifying lotion/cream during the blending process should thin it out. But remember, go slowly. You can add liquid, but you can’t take it away.
If the lotion or cream is too greasy
stir in tapioca starch or arrowroot powder by hand, ¼ teaspoon at a time with a whisk or spoon, until the mixture becomes smoother and less greasy (Gladstar & Clare, 2010). Instead of oils and butters that absorb into the skin slowly, such as coconut oil, olive oil, and cocoa butter, choose those that absorb more quickly (refer to chart in Unit 3, Lesson 1).
If the lotion or cream has separated,
this may be an indication that your water and oil ingredients weren’t the same temperature when you combined them. This can be remedied by heating up your lotion or cream in a double boiler and stirring continually just until it liquifies. This process should not take long; don’t allow the mixture to get so hot that it begins to steam. Remove the mixture from the heat and blend it again until it stabilizes, then store it in the refrigerator.
Lotions and creams can also separate when exposed to hot temperatures. If it’s hot outside (over 80 degrees F with high humidity), store your lotions and creams in the refrigerator
If the cream or lotion has become moldy
, this is a sign of microbial contamination at some point in the production process. (Individual jars of cream or lotion can also be contaminated during use, simply from bacteria on your fingers, and bacterial growth is not always visible.) To prevent microbial contamination, make sure any equipment used to make creams and lotions, including bowls, blenders, spatulas, storing jars, measuring spoons, and measuring cups, is clean, sanitized, and dry. A lotion or cream that becomes moldy or otherwise suspect should be discarded. To prevent microbial contamination in the future, in addition to meticulously clean equipment, consider adding a preservative to your next batch. See Unit 3 Lesson 1 for a list of preservatives.
What are the benefits of adding tinctures to lotions?
Because of their high alcohol content, tinctures can be very irritating to the skin
Adding tinctures to creams and lotions is an ideal way to incorporate their benefits without irritating the skin (Gladstar & Clare, 2010).
for anti-inflamatory lotion add Arnica tincture
for anti-fungal lotion add calendula tincture
for anti-septic lotion add golden seal and myrhh tincture
What needs to be done to the water ingredients when adding tincture to a lotion?
When adding tinctures to water ingredients, be sure to subtract an equal amount of liquid from the recipe so the total volume of liquid ingredients isn’t changed. For example, if a lotion recipe calls for 8 fluid ounces of water, but you’d like to add 2 fluid ounces of tincture, make sure you reduce the remaining water amount to 6 fluid ounces.
