Haircare Flashcards
In which layer of the skin is hair rooted?
hair follicle in the dermis. Follicle is connected to blood vesels that feed the hair and sabacious gland lubricates hair with sebum.
What are the three layers of hair
cuticle, cortex, madulla
What is the hair cuticle?
outer layer of hair made of translucent keratine sheath that is covered by a lipid layer, which helps to hydrate and protect the hair.
What is the hair cortex?
The cortex forms the bulk of the hair shaft and is the part of the hair shaft that is chemically altered during perming and coloring. Melanin, the same pigment that gives color to the skin, is also found in the cortex of the hair shaft, though it is produced in the hair follicle. The amount, type, and distribution of melanin determines the color of the hair (O’Rahilly et al., 2008); when the follicle stops producing melanin, hair turns white (Chandrashekar, 2018).
What is the hair medulla?
The medulla, or the central layer of the hair shaft, consists of soft keratin and melanin, and is not present in every strand of hair (Silverthorn, 2007).
What are the erector pili?
The arrector pili is a group of sympathetically innervated muscles located between the root of the hair and the skin’s surface. When these muscles contract, they pull the hair follicles upright. They’re activated in response to changes in emotion or temperature, often making your hair “stand on end,” or causing “goosebumps” (Silverthorn, 2007).
What is the difference between terminal and vellus hair?
There are two main types of hair on the human body: vellus hair and terminal hair. Vellus hair is fine and hard to detect. It’s the hair that covers the parts of the body that appear hairless—including bald regions on the scalp. Terminal hair refers to the more noticeable hair that grows on the head (including the scalp, eyebrows, and eyelashes) and the body (including pubic hair, facial hair, and leg hair) (Robbins, 2002).
How fast does hair grow?
The speed at which hair grows depends upon ethnicity, age, hormonal balance, sex, and genetics. Healthy human hair grows at a rate of 0.2 in (0.5 cm) to 0.7 in (1.7 cm) per month. The rate at which hair grows from the scalp is steady until around the age of 30 and continues to decrease after that. However, it should be noted that beard, nose, ear, and eyebrow hair growth tends to accelerate with age (Chandrashekar, 2018; Robbins, 2002).
Explain the life cycle of a single strand of hair
The life cycle of a single strand of hair occurs in three phases. The anagen phase is a period of hair growth. This phase can last a very long time, 3-5 years on average, depending on the length potential of an individual’s hair. The second phase, the catagen phase, is a transitional phase that lasts about 10-14 days. During this time, the base of the hair follicle stops receiving blood flow from the rest of the body, and the follicle shrinks and detaches from the dermal papilla. During the third and last phase, the telogen phase, the hair shaft sheds, though the follicle remains dormant before cycling back to the anagen phase (Patel et al., 2015; Robbins, 2002). These cycles continue to repeat themselves over the lifetime of a hair follicle unless it becomes damaged (Robbins, 2002). Luckily, each hair shaft cycles independently of surrounding hair shafts; otherwise, we would all molt every 4 years or so!
What are the most common hair concerns
dandruf damaged hair Fine hair Thinning hair and hair loss Oily hair Head lice
What are the most common hair products?
Shampoo Conditioner Mask Rinses Dye Hair styling
What is dandruf?
Dandruff is a condition in which flakes of skin appear on the scalp, along with scalp irritation and itching.
What causes dandruf?
Causes of dandruff include not brushing or combing the hair, yeast overgrowth, dry skin, some skin and hair care products, psoriasis, eczema, ringworm, fungal infections, nutritional deficiency or imbalanced diet, stress, and age (Nordqvist, 2017). Another common cause of dandruff is seborrheic dermatitis, a skin inflammation that can appear on the scalp, face, or body, and can have a number of underlying triggers (American Academy of Dermatology, n.d.).
Support for dandruf
Increasing sunlight exposure, managing stress, getting more zinc, B vitamins, and healthy fats in your diet, and keeping the scalp clean
A 2002 clinical trial showed that tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) essential oil was effective in reducing dandruff symptoms caused by yeast overgrowth (Satchell et al., 2002). This makes sense, since tea tree has a long history of use as a powerful antifungal, especially when it comes to skin conditions (Hoffmann, 2003).
Another study demonstrated that a combination of antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial herbs and compounds (zinc pyrithione, Amur cork tree (Phellodendron amurense), purslane (Portulaca oleracea), Indian soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), and true indigo (Indigofera tinctoria)) improved the symptoms of dandruff caused by seborrheic dermatitis (Barak-Shinar & Green, 2018).
In addition to antimicrobial herbs, such as black walnut (Juglans nigra) hull and tulsi (Ocimum tenuiflorum) aerial parts, and anti-inflammatory herbs, such as chickweed (Stellaria media) aboveground parts and violet (Viola spp.) aerial parts, astringent, vulnerary, and emollient herbs may be indicated for dandruff, depending on the presentation of the scalp. Topical astringents that are also anti-inflammatory include meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria) aerial parts and rose (Rosa spp.) petal, and may be best for a scalp that is oozing or weeping. Emollient anti-inflammatories for an overly dry scalp include licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) root and fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum) seed. Vulneraries such as calendula (Calendula officinalis) flower, which also happens to be antifungal and anti-inflammatory, will likely benefit most cases of dandruff. Any of these herbs can be incorporated into a shampoo, scalp oil, or hair rinse for dandruff care.
Generally: Antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, astringent, vulnerary and emolient.
What is a hair rinse?
Super infusion, 4 to 8 hours, of herbs that is used to rinse the hair and scalp
What is a common Ayurvedic and TCM recipe for dandruf?
According to both Chinese medicine and Ayurveda, dandruff may occur when there is insufficient blood supply to the scalp (Lad, 1998; Tierra, 1992). This mixture of sesame oil and ginger juice stimulates circulation and delivers nourishment to the dandruff-prone scalp.
Ingredients
2 tbsp (1 fl oz) sesame oil 2 tbsp (1 fl oz) fresh ginger (Zingiber officinale) rhizome juice
Directions
Shred ginger and use a garlic press to extract juice (or just use a juicer!). Combine sesame oil and ginger juice in a small bottle or bowl and shake or whisk to combine.
Make as needed (do not store), and rub onto the scalp. Let sit on the scalp for at least 8 hours (place a shower cap or towel on your head and sleep while the ginger and sesame work their magic!).
Follow by washing with an herbal shampoo.
Repeat 2-3 times per week.
What is damaged hair?
Healthy hair is coated with a lipid layer that makes the hair hydrophobic (“water hating”)—practically speaking, this means that the hair shaft doesn’t absorb much water. However, if the hair is stripped of this hydrophobic layer, it can shift the hair shaft to be more hydrophilic (“water loving”), causing hair to become porous, and absorb and retain excess water (Gavazzoni Dias, 2015). The result is increased stretching of the hair shaft, which can cause fracturing and splitting—over time, this can cause frizzing in high humidity, and static electricity in low humidity (Cruz et al., 2016)
What causes damaged hair
poor diet, sun and environmental exposure, and chemical exposure from hair dyes, hair sprays, and other conventional hair care products. Hair that hasn’t been damaged by heat (from blow dryers, curlers, and straighteners) or chemically altered (from coloring, perming, or relaxing) is sometimes referred to as virgin hair. Even regular grooming activities like shampooing and combing or brushing can cause damage to the hair (Robinson, 1976). Age is also a factor—the integrity of the hair shaft deteriorates over time (Takahashi et al., 2015).
Support for damaged hair
One of the easiest ways to minimize hair damage is to use a conditioner after shampooing your hair; this not only detangles and smoothes the hair, it also mimics the natural outer lipid layer of the hair shaft and seals the cuticle to minimize water absorption (Gavazzoni Dias, 2015).
Hair serums
Recipe for moisturising hair serum
This deep conditioning oil is a treat for dry, thirsty hair. Geranium (Pelargonium spp.), lavender (Lavandula spp.), chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), and rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis, ct. 1,8 cineole or ct. verbenone) are nice essential oil options for normal to dry hair. If desired, you can also use herb-infused sweet almond or jojoba oil in place of the plain oil called for below.
Ingredients
2 tbsp (1 fl oz) sweet almond or olive oil 2 tbsp (1 fl oz) jojoba oil 1 tsp argan oil ⅛ tsp vitamin E oil 10 drops essential oil of choice
Directions
Combine all ingredients in a dark-colored glass bottle with a dropper top. Shake thoroughly to combine now and before each use.
Label, and store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
To use, apply a few teaspoons of serum to wet hair during a bath or shower, making sure to use fingers to work it into the hair. Cover hair with a shower cap or plastic wrap, then wrap with a warm, damp towel, and let oil penetrate hair for at least 20 minutes and up to 1 hour. Shampoo thoroughly and rinse.
Alternatively, for a quicker application, rub 5-10 drops of herbal hair serum on the palms of your hands and then smooth hands throughout damp or dry hair, starting 2 inches below the root and down toward the end of the hair shaft.
What is fine hair?
Fine hair is simply a hair strand that is small in diameter. This can give the appearance of having thin hair, even if you have the same density of hair follicles as someone with thicker hair. Fine hair can become greasy or oily much faster because the oil has less surface area to cover, so regular washing may be suggested.
Support for fine hair
Volumizing products are designed to give body to fine hair, and can work in several ways. Mousse, gel, and pomade can lift hair away from the roots, which can make the hair appear to have more volume, while hair sprays, root lifters, and texturizers can add texture to the hair shaft. Other products, like shampoos and conditioners, are designed to add volume by stripping the hair of oils that would ordinarily weigh the hair down. Blow drying the hair after washing it can also boost volume, although high heat may damage hair.
Causes of thinning hair and hair loss
Heredity, medications, certain diseases, (Alopecia) stress, inflammation, nutritional deficiencies, hormonal changes, age Hair follicle traction, caused by tightly restraining the hair, In some instances, the anagen phase of the hair growth cycle is shortened significantly, meaning the hair itself is unable to achieve its full growth potential, resulting in thin hair (Patel et al., 2015).
What causes oily hair?
sebaceous glands in the skin coat the scalp and hair shaft in sebum. When the hair begins to appear greasy near the scalp, it’s usually a sign that it’s time to gently cleanse your locks. However, hereditary factors, hormone imbalance, puberty, menstruation, pregnancy, nutritional deficiencies, stress, certain medications, and skin conditions such as seborrheic dermatitis and Darrier’s disease can cause an overproduction of sebum in the sebaceous glands (Chandrashekar, 2018).
