Nada 2 Flashcards
Skin care product
.
Major factor influences skin
.
Hydration
.
Temperature
.
DELIPIDIZATION
.
Requirements for cosmetic bases
.
If the pharmaceutical agent is to
.
Effect of externally applied lipid
.
Effect of ion and ph
.
Effect of collusion
.
Moisture balance
.
Type of skin care product
.
Components
.
Transport of active ingredients into the
circulation has to be restricted to
.
There is a direct relationship between the
amount of
.
up to 1,000 and
.
over
1,000
.
appendageal route
.
hexane
.
acetone
.
chloroform-methanol,
.
humectants
.
hydrophilic (water-soluble) gums
.
Oil phase component
.
Hydrocarbon
.
Fat and oil
.
Beeswax
.
Fatty acid
.
Higher alcohol
.
Synthetic ester
.
Silicone
.
Water phase
.
Humectant
.
Thickning agent
.
Alcohol
.
Surfactant
.
Others
.
MOISTURIZING PREPARATIONS
.
How Do Moisturizers Work?
.
Emollients
.
Occlusives
.
Humectants
.
Ideal Moisturizer
.
Formulations
.
ANTIWRINKLE CREAM
.
Newer products claim to have other
properties such as
.
the physical barrier of
the SC and,
.
SC function as a
moisture barrier
.
Half of the NMF is amino acids
derived from the
.
serve to fill the cracks between
clusters of desquamating corneocytes and are
not usually occlusive unless applied heavily.
.
reduce TEWL by creating a
hydrophobic barrier over the skin
.
Occlusives Their main limitations include
.
is the most effective occlusive
.
which only reduce TEWL by
20%-30%.
;
thought to diffuse into the
intercellular lipid domains
.
Attract water from two sources: from the dermis and external
environment.
.
The most effective humectant is
.
has been shown to improve xerosis (dry skin condition).
.
are almost always combined with an
occlusive agent.
.
as OTC can
be classified according to application site.
.
play a role in treating and augmenting therapy for the aging face.
.
commonly called crow’s feet around
the outer corners of the eye.
.
crisscrossing triangular or
rectangular wrinkles commonly seen on the cheeks
and nape of the neck.
.
fine wrinkles commonly seen on the
unexposed skin of elderly people.
L
liquid paraffin
.
solid paraffin
.
petrolatum
.
olive oil,
.
almond oil,
.
cocoa
butter,
.
nut oil
.
hardened palm oil
.
castor
oil,
.
sunflower oil,
.
lanolin
.
carnauba wax
L
candelilla
wax, etc.
/
stearic acid,
.
oleic acid,
.
palmitic acid,
.
behenic acid,
.
stearyl alcohol
.
hexadecyl
alcohol
.
octyldodecyl alcohol,
.
cholesterol
.
Isopropyl myristate
.
tri- glyerides,
.
pentaerythrityl tetraesters,
.
cholesteryl
ester, etc.
.
Dimethyl polysiloxane,
.
methylphenyl
polysiloxane,
.
cyclomethicone
.
glycerin
.
propylene glycol,
.
sorbitol
.
mannitol
.
biopolymers
.
PEG methyl glycoside,
.
Quince seeds
.
pectin
.
cellulose
derivatives
.
xanthan gum,
.
sodium alginate,
.
carageenan
.
carboxyvinyl
polymer,
.
Ethanol
.
isopropanol
.
glyceryl stearate,
L
PEG sorbitan fatty acid
.
sorbitan fatty acids esters
.
PEG alkyl ether,
.
PEG-PPG co-block copolymer,
.
PEG-hardened castor
oil ester,
.
fatty acid soaps,
.
sodium alkyl sulfate,
.
parabens
.
sorbic acid
.
thymol
.
butylated hydroxytoluene,
.
vitamin E,.
.
increases as the intercellular spaces become larger
.
The major reasons for rise in temperature increases skin penetration
.
petrolatum and water-soluble
Eg. PEG
substances
.
plant oils and lanolin or
substances exhibiting emulsifying
.
If the lipids are applied singly or two at a
time,
.
Cosmetic bases are generally adjusted to be weakly
acidic.
.
The pH of skin care products must therefore
be adjusted in order to
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the synthesis of lipids and the production and release of lamellar granules
.
should
be a most effective form for skin care.
.
The desired viscosity is reached by adding
amphiphilic substances,
.
must have a certain
moisture retention capacity
.
are major constituents of
the NMF.
.
includes a
lipid film that reduces the loss of the
NMF.
.
When the horny layer absorbs moisture,
it becomes.
.
Moisturizers remain
on the skin and horny layer acting as
.
.
impart a smooth, moist
feeling to the skin and must not interfere
with –or enhance- biochemical processes
that occur normally in the skin.
.
involve combined use of substances of relatively small molecular All these compounds have hydroxy group or polar group so they act as good humectants to retain and attract moisture 2 weight,
.
polyols
.
pyrrolidone
carboxylates,
.
lactic acids
.
amino acids,
.
polymers such as glycosaminoglycans.
.
The smaller organic molecules exhibit high
.
.
behave differently
due to their structure and as a rule are less
rapidly influenced by environmental
conditions.
L
Contribute to the emolliency of the preparation
and augment (supplement) the natural barrier
lipids in the SC.
.
is the ability of the applied product to
produce a sensation of suppleness (flexibility)
and smoothness to the skin surface and the
provision of slip.
.
reduce the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and also serve as a barrier
.
Barrier lipids can be lost or damaged by
.
Barrier layer damage increases
.
The lowered water content of the stratum
corneum affects the
.
Effect of topical application of
vitamins to rats were not seen in the
epidermis of humans.
.
There is no clear evidence that such
substances actually are absorbed and
transported to the site where their action is
to be manifested.
.
Stability probelm
L
These
vitamins are best taken orally to treat
any part of the body when there may
be a deficiency.
.
 used in topical preparations is currently
.
They contain varying combinations of
emollients, occlusives, and humectants.
.
The term moisturizer is
.
slow evaporation of the skin’s
moisture,
.
improving the appearance and
tactile (touch feeling) properties of dry
and aging skin
.
restore the barrier function
.
is the most important
factor in water flux and retention in the
skin, and in overall level of moisturization.
.
The four key processes for the formation
and functioning of the SC are the
.
when hydrated, contribute to
elasticity.
.
and the other is salts,
including lactates, urea, and electrolytes.
;
corneodesmosomes
are degraded by water-dependent
.
Corneocytes accumulate
on the skin surface producing the signs of
dry skin,
.
little effect on the
mechanical properties
.
claim to rejuvenate the skin by replenishing its essential proteins but whether or not they have any effect on skin hydration is questionable.
.
reduce skin friction
and increase skin hydration by providing
water directly to the skin from their water
phase
.
which are mainly lipids and oils,
.
softness,
enhanced flexibility, and smoothness.
.
exert their benefits through effects
on the skin barrier, partially through improved
repair, and on permeability.
.
hypo-allergenic, nonsensitizing, fragrance free, noncomedogenic
.
is particularly prone to effects of
the environment.
.
Requirements for face
.
are targeted for consumers with oily skin.
.
added to reduce the
appearance of excess shine such as oil-
absorbent compounds
.
Silicone
.
kaolin
.
talc
L
especially useful for photoaged skin and include sun protectants, alpha hydroxy acids (e.g., glycolic acid), and retinol and its derivatives.
L
Some specialized products’ aims include the reduction of cellulite, firming, bronzing (dark skin), and minimizing the signs of aging.
.
Gelatin
.
Glycerin
.
Honey
.
Hyaluronic acid
.
Panthenol glycol
.
Sodium and ammonium lactate
.
Sodium pyrrolidine carboxlic acid
.
Sorbital
/
Astringent emollient
.
Dry emollient
.
Fatting emollient
.
Protective emollient
.
Protein rejuvenators
.
Fatty acid
.
Fatty alcohol
.
Hydrocarbon oil/wax
.
Phospholipids
.
Polyhydric alcohol
.
Sterols
.
Vegatible waxes
.
Wax ester
L
Beeswax
.
Lanolin
.
Stearyl stearate
.
Candelilla
.
Carnauba
.
Cholesterol
.
Propylene glycol
.
Lecithin
.
Lanolin acid
.
Stearic acid
.
Cetyl alcohol
.
Lanolin alcohol
.
Stearyl alcohol
.
Caprylic/capric triglycerides
.
Mineral oil
.
Parafin
.
Petroleum
.
Silicone derivative
.
Squalene
.
Collagen
.
Elastin
.
Keratin
.
Di isopropyl dilinoleate
.
Isopropyl isostearate
.
Caster oil
.
Glyceryl stearate
L
Jojoba oil
.
Octyl stearate
.
Propylene glycol
.
Decyl oleate
.
Isopropyl palmitate
.
Isostearyl alcohol
.
Cyclomethicone
.
Dimethicone
L
Isopropyl mynstate
.
Octyl octanoate
.
