Colorant Flashcards
COLOR COSMETICS
Function
.
COLOR COSMETICS
Product forms:
.
The actual number of colorants utilized is approximately
.
FOUNDATION/SKIN COLORANTS
Function
.
Degree of opacity can vary from
.
The finish provided can be ……
depending on the………
.
foundations include skin treatment functions
.
Preferred forms vary according to
L
United State, Europe, Japan
.
COVERAGE
It depends on the ability of a material to
.
The greater the
difference in ……
between a …………
in which it is dispersed, the greater the degree of……
thus the greater the …..
.
Other properties that affect light-scattering:
.
Particles <350 nm in diameter,
.
Coverage is provided primarily by the white pigments
.
TITANIUM DIOXIDE
L
is the white pigment most commonly.
.
ZINC OXIDE
L
Zinc oxide has a lower refractive index than….. and thus has lower…..
.
is a yellowish- white pigment providing coverage in shades for darker skin tones
.
results in an “ashy” appearance.
.
Kaolin
.
TALC
.
is the most common filler pigment used in foundations.
.
COLORED PIGMENTS
.
SURFACE-TREATED PIGMENTS
.
FRAGRANCE
.
are the principal coloring oxides used in foundation makeup.
.
almost all skin tones can be matched using the iron oxides.
.
Pigment particles that are uniformly coated with a hydrophobic
.
OIL IN WATER FOUNDATIONS
.
POWDER FOUNDATION
.
is the form of choice for powder foundation,
.
A basic pressed powder consists of
.
Metallic soaps of fatty acids,
.
dry binders.
.
Other materials that aid compaction are
.
LIPSTICKS
.
Dispersions of
.
impart an attractive color
and appearance to the lips
.
have a treatment function,
providing an oily protective film to prevent
chapping (crack) and drying out of the lips’
sensitive mucous membranes.
.
LIPSTICK INGREDIENTS
.
COLORING MATERIALS
.
How color is imparted to the lips
.
With colored layer that serves to hide surface roughness and give smooth appearance
.
Capable of penetrating the outer surface of the lips
.
STAINING DYES
.
Halogenated derivatives of fluorescein,”
bromoacids”, a term originally applied to acid
Have brome and COOH
eosin, tetrabromofluorescein.
.
EOSIN
.
is an
If PH is less than 2 it gives :
insoluble orange compound that changes to
an intense red salt > pH2
.
Also known as D&C Red No. 21,
.
Disadvantages of eosin
L
PIGMENTS
L
Titanium dioxide N
.
is an effective white
pigment for obtaining pink shades and giving
opacity to the film on the lips.
.
BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE
.
alternative opacifier in
pearlaceous shades.
.
low oil absorption and a smooth feel on the
skin and lips.
.
are used for matching the russet
and brown shades
.
Surface-treated versions
may be used to improve wetting.
.
ORGANIC PIGMENTS
Lakes; not purely organic or purely inorganic ( mix of both )
.
provide
the bright clean red, orange, and violet tone
.
When the
parent D&C color is subject to restriction,
.
LIPID BASE MATERIALS
.
the quality of the lipstick
during manufacture, storage, and use will be
determined for the most part by the
composition of the fatty base.
L
The quality is largely concerned with the
.
while
holding the insoluble colors evenly dispersed.
.
must set quickly with good
surface and good release properties.
.
During shelf life and usage life the stick must
.
the stick must soften sufficiently in
contact with the lips to form
.
BROMOACID SOLVENTS
.
are too non-polar to dissolve the dyes.
.
Liquid fatty alcohols,
.
dipropylene glycol
.
highly polar
esters,
;
castor oil
.
Mineral oils
.
acts a solvent for bromoacid,
.
high viscosity, even
at elevated temperatures,
.
excellent vehicle for pigment suspension and milling.
.
contributes to gloss and emolliency,
.
Excellent solvent for the waxes
that give structure to lipsticks.
.
LIQUID FATTY ALCOHOLS
.
Good solvents for the polar waxes and bromoacids.
L
are preferred to oleyl alcohol for Unsaturated
their lower odor and lack of tendency to rancidity.
.
contribute to slip during application
.
act as co-solvents between polar and nonpolar materials in formulations
L
Provide a glossy surface to the sticks and the lips.
.
Mineral oil
.
Provide the high melting points or the hardness.
.
85 and 15%
.
a very hard vegetable wax imparting
.
providing contraction properties in the molding process.
.
CARNAUBA WAX
.
hard vegetable wax
.
but it has
a lower m.p. and is less brittle.
.
CANDELILLA
.
BEESWAX
.
is the traditional stiffening agent
for castor oil
.
produce a grainy and dull
:
.
contribute to oil exudation,
.
COCOA BUTTER,
.
sharp m.p. just below the
human body temperature.
.
HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OILS
.
More solid and less prone to rancidty
L
LANOLIN
.
Good solvent properties
.
binding agents
.
minimize sweating and cracking of
the stick,
.
plasticizers
.
wetting out the
pigments.
.
the use of lanolin has declined.
.
offer many of the advantages in a “cleaner”
produc
.
POLYETHYLENE
.
raise the m.p.
.
improve
high temperature stability.
.
can only be incorporated into formulations
having a significant level of nonpolar oils to
act as solvents..
.
Must be heated above 90C to
.
ADDITIONAL BASE INGREDIENTS
.
WETTING AGENTS
.
ANTIOXIDANTS
.
PERFUMES
.
MANUFACTURE OF LIPSTICKS
.
LIP BALMS AND GLOSSES
L
Low HLB surfactants,
.
improve pigment wetting
and dispersion,
.
Lecithin.
.
facilitating the
application of the lipstick
.
improving the adhesion
to the lips.
.
Slow the development of rancidity
.
Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA)
.
Butylated
hydroxytoluene (BHT)
.
propyl gallate,
.
rosemary
extract,
.
citric acid
.
mask the fatty odor
.
should be nonirritating to the lips.
.
grind to give evenly distributed color.
.
to form the lipstick
mass.
.
mass into sticks.
.
is used not for decoration but for protection
against exposure to cold.
.
A lip balm that is used as a
.
softer than conventional lipsticks or are fluid,
.
so packaged in vials with sponge applicators or roll-on applicators.
.
Zinc stearate
.
Magnesium myristate
.
Lithium stearate
.
3% to 8%
.
Powdered polyethylene
.
Powdered waxes
.
isostearate, or -oleate
.
primary emulsifier
.
acts as a
strong stabilizing mechanism.
.
wet more easily into oil.
.
and help wear of color.
.
Adsorb water and oils.
.
Improve pigment
dispersion and stabilizer
.
