Hair Setting Flashcards
The hair structure is held together, mainly, by
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are the strongest. They can only be changed by chemical methods such as perming or relaxing.
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are much weaker than the disulphide linkages and more easily broken, and they give hair its flexibility
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On wetting the hair by humidity or shampoo,…….. are broken, the hair becomes soft, easily stretched
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In this softened condition, the hair can be fashioned into a ……by positioning and holding the hair in the new desired position or shape during drying.
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The new “set” or curl pattern is …….. until the water dry out, at which time …….configuration pulls the hair back into its permanent configuration.
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Curling or straightening produced by setting ……. hair are tight when they are first formed, but they are dis- configured when hair get ……
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Using setting lotions or hair sprays or any other hair setting product gives ……and helps to hold the temporary “set” in …….
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Product components
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Solvents
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Cosolvents and propellants
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Is typically ….. because of its efficiency to break hydrogen bonds and other good characters
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ethanol
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isopropanol
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Typically, ethanol or isopropanol to allow for:
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Styling polymer(s)
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PVP K-30 ( ~ 60,000 Kd) is the most common one because of:
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Its ready solubility in water or ethanol,
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Ease of sprayability at low to high concentrations (1-8%),
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Versatility in modifying its stiffness or brittleness,
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Good adhesion to keratin and clarity of its film.
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Its nonioninc character offering compatibility with ionic
agents
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Polymer modifiers and viscosity increasing agents
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plasticizers
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humectants
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wetting agents
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antistatic agents
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These help the polymer flow to attach to the keratin or hair surface
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propylene glycol,
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glycerin
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silicones
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have been used for reducing static (cationic).
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Modifier are kept at ……of the polymer solids level
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Using higher levels of polyol plasticizers or wetting agents can cause
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Preservative
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May not be needed for some products containing <25% alcohol or < 35%
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Vegetable and animal oils and/or mineral oil (mineral oil is not preferred but allowed up to
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panthenol
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polypeptides
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allantoin
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jaborandi
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pilocarpine
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resorcinol
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cholesterol
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salicylic acid,
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ethyl alcohol
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sulfur
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lecithin
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Colour
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are used at low concentrations (~ >0.001%)
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Higher levels of colour may be added….
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Some products may be coloured brown to
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Fragrance and solubilizer
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Marketing concept additives
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Spray-on products can use much less fragrance “oil” because of
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Are included as marketing focus, even if they are actives.
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added to create a family of products.
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fragrance
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proteins
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panthenol
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vitamins
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black seed oil
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Castor oil
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Almond oil
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Olive oil
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Solid brilliantines or pomades
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Have been used on extremely curly hair to
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Because of its viscosity, it can coat the hair provide
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It also can be used on straight hair to give a conditional feel and a little weight to control flyaway hair, especially damaged hair.
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can be as simple as mineral or vegetable oils thickened or stiffened with suitable agent(s) or as complex as blends of paraffin or natural waxes tinted and perfumed.
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Stearic acid
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Mineral oil
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Alcoholic lotions
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improve the wetting properties of oils
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After evaporation of the alcohol, a….
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gives a feeling of freshness and stimulate the scalp.
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alcohol-soluble
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it is used frequently as the oil in an alcoholic lotion.
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glycerol
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Mixing oil with alcohol will…..
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Gum based hairdressings
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Contain ….. gum depending on ….
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When applied to the hair, the product will gradually dry out,
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Drying can be accelerated by adding
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Large % of alcohol (more than 10%) will…..
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The main disadvantages of Gum based hairdressings
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We can avoid this disadvantage by
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Emulsions
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Aerosol hair dressing
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The advantages of aerosol spray-dispensing are:
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should never be used in aerosol sprays, since the atomized hydrocarbons can be inhaled and cause lipid pneumonia.
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The product also can be applied after grooming to help hold the set in place
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The product is applied directly and need only be combed or brushed
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through, thereby avoiding….
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Spraying and penetration into hair bundles
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Flaking or brushing which the impression of dandruff
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Add humectant , plasticizer, water soluble landline may avoid this
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Mono-alkyl quaternary
