EYE MAKEUP PRDUCTS Flashcards
……. delicate organ in human body,
with a several parts in a near-spherical
structure.
.
Eyebrow
K
Eye lids l
L
Eye lashes
P
prevent
water, sweat or other debris from dropping
down into the socket of eye.
O
facial expression and human
communication.
P
Thin layer of skin on outer surface to protect surface of eyes from injury.
G
Protect eyes by blinking if foreign matters (dirt, dust or debris) come too close to eyes, and
bright light that will be harmful to eyes.
I
Helps to moisten eyes
K
Gives additional protection to
eyes.
M
Filter foreign matterlike dirt, dust,
debris or dandruff and prevent
them from falling the eye surface.
J
TYPES OF EYE MAKEUP PRODUCTS
F
2.1.Mascara
F
Eyeliners
O
2.3.Eyebrow liners
O
2.4.Eyeshadows
F
False eyelashes
O
2.6.Eye makeup removers
G
make eyelashes longer,
thicker and darker thereby producing an intense
look.
L
makes the contrast between the sclera (
white part of eye) and the iris (colored part of
eye) and dramatizes and accentuates the eyes.
L
combination of waxes,
texturizers, pigments, emulsifiers and aqueous/
non aqueous solvents
P
Earlier it used in the form
of cake but nowadays is used in liquid form.
L
contour the eyes by drawing a
precise line at the base of lower and upper eyelashes.
P
give the illusion of smaller or bigger eyes and
bring out the contrast between sclera and iris.
L
emulsions consisting of texturizers, emollients,
pigments, emulsifiers and water
O
are added to
increase the viscosity of liquid liners, to provide texture to
the formulation and to increase the adhesiveness of product
to eyelids.
L
are available in different forms like
pencil, gel/crème, liquid and cake.
P
highlight
the natural outline and hairs of
eyebrows, creates fuller brows,
and covers areas of having no hair.
L
Their composition (water, emollients, texturizers, pigments, and emulsifiers)is identical to eyeliners, but they are little harder than the eyeliners
O
add dimension and depth to the eyes, make
eyes bigger and attractive there by drawing
attention to the eye color or eye appearance.
L
apply to eyelids and
below eyebrows.
K
formulated in the form of crème/gel, stick
and powders, either pressed or loose.
O
becoming the latest trend
throughout the world for creating bold and good looks.
K
modifying the length and
thickness of the natural eyelashes to enhance beauty
K
is synthetic and looks like a real eyelash, which
applies hair by hair basis on to the eyelashes for a natural
look.
K
remove eye makeup from eyes.
E
available in the form of cream,
lotion, and wet remover pads.
O
soft moisturizing pads
that make easy to clean eye makeup even
waterproof mascara and safe for sensitive
eyes.
O
From a consumer point of view, the quality of eye makeup products should have the following features:
F
Non-irritant , non-
toxic and non-allergic
T
Available in different
attractive shades
T
Produce homogeneous
color after application
G
Long lasting effect
H
Good coverage
property
G
Water resistance
G
Dry quickly on
application
G
Ease in application
and remove without
hurting the skin/eye
J
Adhere firmly to eyelashes and eyelids without brittleness and tackiness No clumping and flakiness in mascara
N
Good gliding property
in eye pencils or liners
J
Eye makeup products should possess
some technical qualities, summarized
as below:
N
should have long-term stability
O
should be dermatological safe
O
should have rheological properties
O
should have high retention power
O
The color intensity should be same without
any change in shade
O
It should have good pay-off in case of
pressed powders.
L
Loose powders should have good free-
flowing properties.
L
should be able to
clean the skin around the eyes and remove
waterproof eye makeup without producing
any undesirable effect.
L
The eye makeup removers should possess
the following characteristics:
I
Should have good tolerance capacity and produce
no irritation
9
pH should be equal to that of human tear
I
Should be isotonic to avoid irritation
I
Should have sufficient cleansing power to remove
eye makeup without any undesirable effect
I
Should have pleasant odor or neutral
I
Should be non-greasy and non-tacky
I
Should be dermatological safe
K
INGREDIENTS AND FORMULATION OF EYE
MAKEUP PRODUCTS
E
1.Mascara
R
Cake mascara
F
Liquid mascara
F
Excipients used for the preparation of mascara
G
There are two types of mascara are available in the market:
O
prevent smudging and smearing;
B
does not prevent the penetration of water,
H
resists smudging or
smearing when subjected to water or tears.
H
was the first eye makeup
product available in the market in 1920s.
G
has a waxy touch and is used for applying
onto the eyelashes by wetting an applicator
wand and rub it onto the surface of the mascara
cake to pick up the product, and then apply
over the lashes.
H
Most of the cake type formulations tend to have
slight …….. and smudge with tears
or when rubs the eye.
L
due to presence of blend of
wax/soap/pigment present in cake mascara.
K
To optimize the water repellency and degree of
hardness of the formulation, a proportion of
excipients can be changed.
K
….. appearance of cake is due to presence of waxes, and on the other
hand soap gives a dull appearance to formulation
.
An ideal formulation of cake mascara
D
low concentration of soap, higher concentration of wax
D
provide water resistance to cake mascara film.
F
The basic components for cake mascara include:
O
Soaps
K
Emollients
O
Waxes
O
Antioxidants
O
Pigments
O
glyceryl monostearate (GMS)
I
triethanolamine (TEA)
stearate,
O
isopropyl myristate (IPM)
K
lanolin
O
carnauba wax
I
beeswax
O
Mascara cakes are generally formulated
by:
L
incorporating pigments into the blend of
soap and hot wax
O
heat the mixture with continuous mixing.
L
It is then solidified on cooling
O
the cold mass is moved onto a3-roll mill
and the size is reduced to form a smooth
homogenous mass.
L
The mass produced is either compressed
into plastic or metal pans or re-melted
and transfer to warm molds.
O
is formulated in the form of O/W
emulsions by using polymers, waxes, pigments and other components.
L
advanced
type of cake mascara, which already includes water.
L
anhydrous formulations, which are prepared by
dispersing the wax in non-aqueous solvent.
O
The non-aqueous solvent provides a
waterproofing effect and at the same time helps in quick drying of the formulation.
O
provides a long-wearing film on eyelashes, which is resistant to smudging, smearing
and water
I
Water-proof liquid
The main disadvantage
O
makes difficult to remove from the lashes and necessitates the use of special
eye makeup remover
L
The excipients used for water-resistant
and water-proof mascaras are almost
similar except the…..
.
Solvents
O
Structurants
O
Thickeners and stabilizers
O
Emulsifiers
O
Color additives
O
Film-formers
L
Preservatives
O
Antioxidants
I
Chelating agent
O
Emollients
O
Lash-elongating synthetics
L
act as a base/vehicle and help in delivery of other ingredients.
K
contains water as the primary solvent.
O
propylene glycol,
K
glycerin
O
sorbitol
O
Water-proofing solvents include
L
hydrocarbons
L
silicones
I
paraffin distillates
O
poly-isobutene
I
iso-eicosane
I
iso-dodecane
I
silicones
I
paraffin distillates
I
cyclomethicone
K
C8-9 iso-paraffin)
K
provides an optimal and creamy texture to the formulations, which helps in
gliding onto the eyelashes
O
helps in maintaining the viscosity of the
formulations and
O
waxes
O
cetyl alcohol.
K
beeswax
O
carnauba wax
K
candelilla wax
I
ozokerite wax)
O
increases the viscosity thereby improving the stability and texture of the eye
formulations.
O
waxes
K
clays
K
cellulose derivatives
K
gums
K
acrylates copolymers
K
stearic acid
K
beeswax
O
carnauba wax
K
candelilla wax
K
bentonite clay
K
hydroxyethyl cellulose
L
Arabic
gum and xanthan gum
K
Talc, silica, kaolin
K
used as texturizing
agents.
K
stabilizing the two immiscible phases of formulation and prevent phase separation.
O
nonionic emulsifiers
I
glyceryl stearate,
I
steareth-2
I
iso-
ceteth.
O
very important ingredients in every cosmetic preparations used in mascaras to highlight or color eyelashes
I
are not approved for sensitive area of eye.
I
The most commonly used colors
I
They promote adhesion of the mascara on the eyelashes and also helps in film formation.
O
gums
I
cellulosic polymers
O
acrylates-copolymers
O
Arabic and xanthum gums
O
hydroxyethyl cellulose
K
poly-vinyl-pyrrolidine,
O
polyvinyl alcohol
I
vinyl alcohol-
O
poly-vinyl-pyrrolidone
O
poly-vinyl-pyrrolidone copolymer,
K
carboxy methyl chitosan).
O
provide protection against environmental and microbial contamination, mainly in water-based preparations.
K
potassium sorbate,
O
phenoxyethanol
I
parabens
K
used to prevent rancidification of fixed oils and waxes.
K
vitamin E,
K
butylated hydroxy toluene
K
butylated hydroxy anisole.
O
maintain product stability by reacting with metal ions.
L
Ethylene-diamine- tetra acetic acid (EDTA) and its derivatives,
K
Emollients
O
Lash-elongating synthetics
O
Eyeliners
K
Liquid eyeliners
K
used in combination with some waxes to maintain the required consistency of the formulations.
O
palm oil
L
jojoba oil,
K
castor oil
K
panthenol
K
provitamin B5.
I
Lash-elongating synthetics
K
provide the illusion of false eyelashes.
K
build on the eyelashes and extend beyond the natural end of the eyelashes.
I
Nylon fibers
K
rayon silk
O
provides longer wear than other forms of eyeliners.
I
contains color additives dispersed in solvents and are applied with a
brush or fine pen-like applicator.
I
are deeply pigmented blends/emulsions in water or any other
solvents
L
should be viscous enough to circumvent running and must dry fast as a
smooth and strong film.
K
incorporated as thickeners.
K
increase the adhesiveness
of the product to eyelids.
K
INGREDIENTS AND FORMULATION OF EYE
MAKEUP PRODUCTS
K
Pencil eyeliners (Soft crayon pencils)
J
supplied in either mechanical plastic cases or wooden cases
K
are softer and deliver the content with less pressure.
K
The leads are mixture of waxes, oils, hardened fats, and pigments.
I
The softness of the blend can be modified by…..
,
For example, higher concentration of high melting point, hard wax results in harder
leads.
I
The leads are formulated by…..
.
Eye liners are ….. than the lip liners because the skin around eyes is …
sensitive than lips.
.
Eyeshadows
O
Excipients used in eyeshadows:
I
Fillers
O
Binders
I
Thickeners
K
Emollients
K
Colorants
I
Preservatives
O
provide a base for pigments, also helps in diluting the color,
K
5.Eye Makeup Removers
I
Excipients used for preparation of eye makeup remover:
O
Eye makeup removers are formulated methods
L
EVALUATION OF EYE MAKEUP PRODUCTS
K
liquid formulation prepared for thorough removal of eye
makeup
I
contains an oily phase to dissolve water-proof makeup and an aqueous
phase to remove water soluble eye makeup thereby producing conditioning effect
to the eyelashes and surrounding area.
I
There are three types of eye makeup
removers, available in the market, used to remove the eye makeup from the eye
and surrounding area.
I
Cleansing milks as o/w emulsions,
I
Cleansing waters as aqueous solutions with ultra-mild surfactants
O
Cleansing pads & wipes impregnated in makeup remover solution.
K
Solvents
I
Emollients
I
Extra mild surfactants
K
Humectants
K
Thickeners
K
pH buffers:
I
Preservatives
I
Chelating agents:
I
Proteins
I
Natural extracts
K
maintain the overall desired pH level of the final product,
O
disodium phosphate,
O
dipotassium phosphate
K
potassium phosphate.
K
used to enhance product’s shelf-life
O
cyclo-tetra-siloxane,
I
benzalkonium chloride,
I
parabens
O
iodo-propynyl-butyl-carbamate.
O
help in cleansing process
I
allow foaming
I
prevent the
metals to be deposited onto the skin,
I
calcium disodium
O
ethylene-diamine
-tetra-acetic acid
I
citric acid.
O
provide skin nourishing effect after cleansing effect.
I
added to the product for different purpose like
antioxidant effect, soothing effect, moisturizing effect,
I
aloe extract
I
cucumber extract.
I
Eye makeup removers are formulated as per the
formulated methods
prescribed methods for solution preparation or by
emulsification method:
O
All hydrophilic excipients are dissolved or
dispersed in water with stirring followed by heating at 40°C.
I
Surfactants and preservatives are added to an
aqueous phase. I
K
All lipophilic components are mixed together and
is heated at the same temperature.
I
The oily phase is added to the aqueous phase with
thorough mixing to complete the emulsification
step.
I
At last, the pH is adjusted.
I
Pressed cake: cake strength
I
Powder mixtures: flow properties, bulk and tapped
densities, compressibility index
I
Liners: rigidity
I
Creams and gels: Spreadability, firmness and
texture
K
Common for all eye products
K
viscosity, color
uniformity, pH, glazing and pay-off, transfer
resistance, water resistance and dispersion of
pigments, etc.
I
Mica
.
Talc
L
Kaolin
K
Starch
J
Calcium carbonate
J
Mineral oil
K
Silicone oil
K
Isopropyl myristate
K
Iron oxide
K
Chromium oxide
I
Ultramarine
K
Titanium dioxide
K
Cyclohexasiloxane
,
Isodecyloleate
M
Poloxamer
F
Sulfosuccinate
C
PEG-40 stearte
D
Carbomer
C
