Hair Waving Flashcards
Three basic methods to style, perm or
straighten hair:
.
The application of pomades and oils, or resin
based fixatives
.
The use of chemical processes (cold
perming).
.
Using heat from a comb, rollers or iron (hot
pressing)
.
Advantages and disadvantages of each: •Oil and resin based fixatives
.
Advantages and disadvantages of each: Hot combs and rollers:
L
Advantages and disadvantages of each: Chemical processes:
L
you can change the style of hair as often as you like
;
temporary, but last a little longer than using oils and resins
.
act on hydrogen, salt and some S-bonds
.
can cause hair damage and even skin burns if they are overused
.
the products will not do significant damage to the hair.
.
you can change the style of hair as often as you like
.
carry the risk of greater damage to the hair.
.
Act on the S-bond and give the most permanent results
.
requires extensive alteration of the biochemical bonds in hair fibers
.
HAIR PERMING (PERMANENT WAVE)
.
bonds that keep the integrity and shape of the hair
.
For the hair shaft to change its shape, …….. need to be broken down and re-formed into a different pattern.
.
Chemical changes to the disulphide bonds are …….. and cannot be destroyed except by ……
.
creates a permanent style in the existing hair but not in the new growing hair.
.
Perming process
.
The hair is first …..
.
The perm lotion is applied to the hair.
.
The alkalinity of the lotion (pH about 9) opens the ….. …..allowing the lotion to flow under the ……
.
The reducer reacts with the keratin of the cortex, breaking some of
.
The hair swells and ‘softens’, so that it can be
.
The softened hair is then put into its new shape using….
.
The chemical process is then neutralized by extensive ………
L
The cysteine linkages realign themselves with,,l.
.
Perm shock
.
After perming
.
Once the perming solution has been put on,……..
.
The ……. is softened and swollen, the ….. is in the process of being chemically changed
.
….. can damage the softened keratin and damage hair completely.
.
After completing the perming process, ……
.
It is important that the hair should not be shampooed during those few days
.
……. may interrupt this ‘curing’ process or even lead to hair breakage
0
.
Problems associated with permanent hair waving
.
If the process is applied inappropriately:
L
It can cause moderate damage: the hair fiber appear as…..
;
If the damage is more severe, there may be……..
.
If the damage is very severe there may be significant…….
.
This breakage can occur at the scalp surface so the breakage looks like hair loss
.
Other problems include ……. if left on for too long or if you have sensitive skin.
.
this may lead to an inflammatory skin reaction such as itching, redness, and even pain
.
this skin reaction can send the hair follicles into a ……… resting state and the hair follicles may take ……. or longer to get back to normal.
L
it will be exacerbated.
.
at this stage it can no longer take a perm because virtually all the disulphide bonds have been broken
.
repeated perming will produce dry, damaged hair unless very expertly performed
.
Hair breakage at the back of the neck associated ……
L
Damaged hair repair
.
cannot be repaired.
.
There are however some treatments that can improve the look of the hair by using a…….
.
These affect ………., and need to be repeated …..
.
The only long term treatment is to get rid of damaged hair by
.
HAIR STRAIGHTENERS
.
Hair straightner preparations include:
.
The chemical and physical processing are very similar to those used for
hair waving.
.
Who want essentially kinky hair opened up and made more controllable.
.
Hot pressing hair (straightening comb)
.
Hot pressing process is achieved as following:
.
First the hair is washed and dried.
.
A small amount of pressing oil is combed through the hair to:
.
………lbreaks some of the biochemical bonds between and within the keratin proteins
.
The tension applied to the hair during the combing procedure make …..
.
The hair is kept straight during combing by the ……..
.
After the comb has passed through the hair, the temperature……
L
this allows the broken biochemical bonds in the hair to reconnect and fix their new position..
,
Types of chemicals used in perming and straightening products
.
alkaline hydroxide creams
.
ammonium or sodium bisulfite lotions.
.
thioglycolate lotions or creams
.
Hydroxide hair product (Caustic preparations)
.
sodium hydroxide
.
guanidine carbonate.
.
Mechanism, process and adverse effects:
.
They act by breaking the disulfide bonds in keratins.
.
After perming or straightening is conducted, the chemical reaction is ……..
.
Because the chemicals involved are quite potent and act in a very short time, the chemicals should………
.
➢If the chemicals are left on the hair for too long, the hair may become
….
The chemicals may cause….
.
To avoid this, the scalp skin is usually covered with…..
.
Because of these risks, the products are only found in the salon and are not generally available for use at home.
.
Bisulfite hair straighteners
.
It is popular with both salon professionals and for home use.
.
Are quite effective and better than …….. and safer than ……. based products
.
They work in the same way by breaking the disulfide chemical bonds in keratins.
.
The lotion is applied to freshly …….
.
The lotion is left in place for about …….and then combed for up to ……. to straighten the hair.
.
The chemical is then washed out with lots of water
.
A stabilizing solution is applied to trigger………
.,
……is applied as a final step.
.
Thioglycolate products
.
ammonium thioglycolate, ATG)
.
The process needs …… to make the hair pliable.
.
The chemical process is then ………, usually by extensive washing with water and then application of …..
.
They are very good at waving
L
not so good as hydroxide and bisulfite products at straightening.
.
They are not quite so potent and quite so successful in breaking the biochemical bonds in the hair.
.
Thioglycolate advantage
.
Formulation Requirements:
.
Formulating caustics requires considerable care to avoid ….
.
……. should be neither an acid nor an ester nor should it be anionic (soap ) that may be salted out by the alkali.
.
best formulated from wax like fatty alcohols with mineral oils and petrolatum jelly as protecting agent.
.
is a type of lotion or cream generally used by people
with curly-textured hair
.
The active agent of relaxer ….
.
The caustic relaxers are classified into two groups:
.
lye
.
No-lye
.
ammonium thioglycolate
.
ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfite
.
potassium
hydroxide
.
guanidine hydroxide
.
