COASTS: The Coastal System Flashcards

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1
Q

Why are coasts considered natural systems?

A

They have inputs, outputs, flows and stores of sediment and energy.

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2
Q

There are 4

What are the inputs of sediment into the coastal system?

A
  • Eroded sediment from rivers and cliffs.
  • Crushed shells of marine organisms.
  • Offshore deposits transported by waves, tides and currents.
  • Sediment from the formation of estuaries from sea levels rising.
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3
Q

What are the inputs into the coastal system?

A

Sediment.

Energy - wind, waves, tides and currents.

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4
Q

What are the outputs of coastal systems?

A

Sediment washing out to sea or being deposited further along the coast.

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5
Q

What are the flows/transfers within the coastal system?

A

Erosion

Weathering

Transportation

Deposition

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6
Q

What are the stores/components of the coastal system?

A

Landforms, eg beaches, dunes and spits.

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7
Q

Give an example of negative feedback in the coastal system:

A
  • Beach is eroded.
  • Cliffs are exposed to wave attack.
  • Sediment eroded is deposited on beach.
  • Beach grows in size.
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8
Q

Give an example of positive feedback in the coastal system:

A
  • Beach forms.
  • Waves slow down.
  • More sediment is deposited.
  • Beach size increases.
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9
Q

What do negative feedbacks do to the system?

A

Restore the balance of the system.

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10
Q

What do positive feedbacks do to the system?

A

Change the balance of the system.

Create a new equilibrium.

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11
Q

What are the sources of energy in the coastal system?

A

Wind

Waves

Tides

Currents

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12
Q

What are winds created by?

A

Air moving from areas of high pressure to areas of low pressure.

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13
Q

What can strong winds generate?

A

Powerful waves.

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14
Q

Prevailing winds

A

When the wind blows from the same direction.

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15
Q

What type of waves do prevailing winds cause?

A

Higher-energy waves than winds that change direction frequently.

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16
Q

What are waves created by?

A

Wind blowing over the surface of the sea, causing friction and giving the sea a circular motion.

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17
Q

The effect of a wave on the shore depends on what?

A

The height of the wave.

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18
Q

What is wave height affected by?

A

Wind speed

Fetch of the wave

19
Q

Fetch

A

The maximum distance of sea the wind has blown over in creating the waves.

20
Q

High wind speed and long fetch create what sort of waves?

A

Higher and more powerful waves.

21
Q

What causes a wave to break as it nears the shore?

A
  • Friction with sea bed slows the bottom of the waves.
  • Wave motion becomes more elliptical.
  • Crest rises up and collapses.
22
Q

What is the frequency of constructive waves?

A

6-8 waves per minute

23
Q

What is the frequency of destructive waves?

A

10-14 waves a minute

24
Q

Describe constructive waves:

A
  • Low frequency
  • Low & long
  • Elliptical cross profile
  • Powerful swash deposits material
25
Q

Describe destructive waves:

A
  • High and steep
  • Circular cross profile
  • Higher frequency
  • Strong backwash removes material from the beach
26
Q

Tides

A

Periodic rise and fall of the ocean surface caused by the gravitational pull of the Moon and the Sun.

27
Q

What do the tides affect?

A

The position at which waves break on the beach.

28
Q

Current

A

The general flow of water in one direction which moves material along the coast.

Can be caused by wind or by variations in water temperature and salinity.

29
Q

Give the characteristics of high-energy coasts:

A
  • Inputs of energy from large, powerful waves.
  • Sandy coves
  • Rocky landforms
  • Rate of erosion is higher than rate of deposition.
30
Q

Give the characteristics of low-energy coasts:

A
  • Low inputs of energy from small, gentle waes.
  • Saltmarshes
  • Tidal mudflats
  • Rate of deposition is higher than the rate of erosion.
31
Q

Sediment budget

A

The difference between the amount of sediment that enters the system and the amount that leaves.

32
Q

Positive sediment budget

A

More sediment enters the system than leaves it and the coastline builds outwards.

33
Q

Negative sediment budget

A
34
Q

Sediment cells / littoral cells

A

Lengths of coastline (often between two headlands) that are largely self-contained for the movement of sediment.

35
Q

Are sediment cells open or closed systems?

A
36
Q

How many sediment cells are there in the UK coastline?

A

11

37
Q

When the wind blows from the same direction.

A

Prevailing winds

38
Q

The maximum distance of sea the wind has blown over in creating the waves.

A

Fetch

39
Q

Periodic rise and fall of the ocean surface caused by the gravitational pull of the Moon and the Sun.

A

Tides

40
Q

The general flow of water in one direction which moves material along the coast.

Can be caused by wind or by variations in water temperature and salinity.

A

Current

41
Q

The difference between the amount of sediment that enters the system and the amount that leaves.

A

Sediment budget

42
Q

More sediment enters the system than leaves it and the coastline builds outwards.

A

Positive sediment budget

43
Q
A

Negative sediment budget

44
Q

Lengths of coastline (often between two headlands) that are largely self-contained for the movement of sediment.

A

Sediment cells / littoral cells