COASTS : Key terms Flashcards
Systems
Set of interrelated components working together towards some kind of process.
Open Systems
System where there are both inputs and outputs.
Inputs
The addition of matter and/or energy into a system.
Components
Parts of a system.
Stores
A part of the system where energy/mass is stored or transformed.
Flows/transfers
A form of linkage between one store/component and another that involves movement of energy or mass.
Outputs
The removal of matter and/or energy from a system.
Dynamic equilibrium
Lack of change in a system as inputs and outputs remain in balance.
Feedback loop
Involves a coupled system that collectively acts to accelerate or decelerate an initial change.
Backshore
The part of the beach lying between the foreshore and coastline.
Foreshore
The part of the beach which is wet due to the varying tide and wave run-up under normal conditions.
Inshore
The area between the low water mark and the point where the waves cease to have any influence on the land around them.
Offshore
The area beyond the point where waves cease to impact the seabed and in which activity is limited to the deposition of sediments.
Swash zone
The zone of wave action on the beach, which moves as water levels vary, extending from the limit of run-down to the limit of run-up.
Surf zone
The region of breaking waves.
Erosion
The wearing away of the Earth’s surface by the mechanical action of processes of glaciers, wind, rivers, marine, waves and wind.
Fetch
Refers to the distance of open water over which a wind blows uninterrupted by major land obstacles.
Mass movement
The movement of material downhill under gravity, but may also be assisted by rainfall.
Weathering
The breakdown of rock on or near the earth’s surface creating regolith that remains in situ until it is moved by latter erosional processes.
Prevailing wind
Winds that blow from a single direction over a specific areas of the Earth.
Abrasion
Where material carried by moving water or wind hits exposed rock surfaces, thus wearing them away.
Wave height
The difference between the elevations of a crest and a neighbouring trough.
Wavelength
The horizontal distance between two crests or troughs.
Wave frequency
The number or crests or troughs passing a stationary point per second.
Swash
The rush of water up the beach after a wave breaks.
Longshore current/ littoral drift
Where waves approach the shore at an angle and swash and backwash then transport material along the coast in the direction of the prevailing wind and waves.
Rip currents
Strong flow of water running from a beach back to the open ocean, sea or lake.
Tides
The
Upwelling
Process in which deep, cold water rises towards the surface - typically rich in nutrients.
Wave refraction
When waves approach a coastline that is not a regular shape, they are refracted and become increasingly parallel to the coastline. Concentrates wave energy on the headland, causing greater erosion.
Tides
The periodic rise and fall of the level of the sea in response to the gravitational pull of the sun and moon.
Set of interrelated components working together towards some kind of process.
Systems
System where there are both inputs and outputs.
Open Systems
The addition of matter and/or energy into a system.
Inputs
Parts of a system.
Components
A part of the system where energy/mass is stored or transformed.
Stores
A form of linkage between one store/component and another that involves movement of energy or mass.
Flows/transfers
The removal of matter and/or energy from a system.
Outputs
Lack of change in a system as inputs and outputs remain in balance.
Dynamic equilibrium
Involves a coupled system that collectively acts to accelerate or decelerate an initial change.
Feedback loop
The part of the beach lying between the foreshore and coastline.
Backshore
The part of the beach which is wet due to the varying tide and wave run-up under normal conditions.
Foreshore
The area between the low water mark and the point where the waves cease to have any influence on the land around them.
Inshore
The area beyond the point where waves cease to impact the seabed and in which activity is limited to the deposition of sediments.
Offshore
The zone of wave action on the beach, which moves as water levels vary, extending from the limit of run-down to the limit of run-up.
Swash zone
The region of breaking waves.
Surf zone
The wearing away of the Earth’s surface by the mechanical action of processes of glaciers, wind, rivers, marine, waves and wind.
Erosion
Refers to the distance of open water over which a wind blows uninterrupted by major land obstacles.
Fetch
The movement of material downhill under gravity, but may also be assisted by rainfall.
Mass movement
The breakdown of rock on or near the earth’s surface creating regolith that remains in situ until it is moved by latter erosional processes.
Weathering
Winds that blow from a single direction over a specific areas of the Earth.
Prevailing wind
Where material carried by moving water or wind hits exposed rock surfaces, thus wearing them away.
Abrasion
The difference between the elevations of a crest and a neighbouring trough.
Wave height
The horizontal distance between two crests or troughs.
Wavelength
The number or crests or troughs passing a stationary point per second.
Wave frequency
The rush of water up the beach after a wave breaks.
Swash
Where waves approach the shore at an angle and swash and backwash then transport material along the coast in the direction of the prevailing wind and waves.
Longshore current/ littoral drift
Strong flow of water running from a beach back to the open ocean, sea or lake.
Rip currents
The
Tides
Process in which deep, cold water rises towards the surface - typically rich in nutrients.
Upwelling
When waves approach a coastline that is not a regular shape, they are refracted and become increasingly parallel to the coastline. Concentrates wave energy on the headland, causing greater erosion.
Wave refraction
The periodic rise and fall of the level of the sea in response to the gravitational pull of the sun and moon.
Tides
