Coasts Flashcards

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1
Q

Abrasion

A

The eroding of material against the cliff

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2
Q

Attrition

A

The eroding of material against each other

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3
Q

Beesands management

A

Sea wall in 2016
Rock armour replacement cost £10,00
£7000 for new sheet piled retaining wall

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4
Q

Cliffs and Wave cut platform formation

A

Cliffs - form as the sea erodes the land and cliffs retreat due to waves and weathering
weathering and wave erosion cause a notch to form at the high water mark
Rock above becomes unstable and it collapses
Wave cut platforms are flat surfaces left behind when a cliff is eroded

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5
Q

Concordant coastline

A

Rocks run parallel to the sea

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6
Q

Cost benefit analysis of Slapton

A

Based on technical, environment, social-economic factors
Score system of acceptable choice
Managed road realignment on barrier - 56.2%

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7
Q

Currents as a source of energy

A

Transportation - rip currents take sediment out

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8
Q

Deposition

A

The dropping of material due to a lack of energy

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9
Q

Discordant coastline

A

Rocks on these coastlines run perpendicular to the sea

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10
Q

Dynamic equilibrium

A

When inputs and outputs of energy and matter of balanced

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11
Q

Emergence

A

Features of coastal erosion that appear to have developed above sea level

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12
Q

Emergent landforms - Raised beaches, relict/fossil cliffs, marine platforms

A

Raised beaches - areas of former wave cut platforms and their beaches, at a higher level than present coastline
Relict/ fossil cliff - steep slope found at the back of a raised beach showing features of caves, arches, and stacks (above raised beaches)
Marine platforms - wave cut platform is created in the bedrock where a gentle platform is made at the base of the cliff, now above sea level (isle of Arran)

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13
Q

Eustatic change

A

A global change in sea level resulting from a fall or rise in the level of sea itself
2 major factors - thermal expansion (where the volume of water increases as it gets warmer)
Land ice melt (melting of glaciers and ice sheets)

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14
Q

Examples of feedback

A

Increasing erosion elsewhere

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15
Q

Extra management (ROAD)

A

2001 - 5m of shingle covering 100m of A379
3 month closure
Rip rap temporarily used
Road realigned 20m back

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16
Q

Formation of barriers islands

A

Long narrow islands of sand or gravel that run parallel to the shore and are detached from it
Form areas of good sediment supply, gentle slope, fairly powerful waves and small tidal range

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17
Q

Formation of beaches

A

Formed when constructive waves deposit sediment on the shore
Shingle beaches are steep and narrow, large particles
Sand beaches formed from smaller particles, wider and flat
(They are a store in the coastal system)

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18
Q

Formation of headlands and bays

A

Headlands and bays are formed at discordant coastlines (soft and hard rock at right angles to shoreline)
The soft rock is eroded quickly forming the bay and the harder rock is eroded slower and sticks out as a headland

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19
Q

Formation of sand dunes

A

Formed when sand deposited by LSD is moved up the beach by the wind
Sand trapped by driftwood is colonised by plants and grasses
Vegetation stabilise the sand dunes and encourages more sand
Oldest dune migrate inland as embryo dunes are formed, mature dune can reach 10m
Embryo dune, foredune, yellow dune, grey dune, dune slack, mature dunes

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20
Q

Formation of spits and compound spits

A

LSD continues to deposit across the river mouth, leaving a bank of sand ad shingle
Changes to dominant wind direction cause a curved end
Over time there may be several curved ends - compound spit
The area behind normally turns into mudflats or salt marshes

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21
Q

Formation of tombolos and offshore bars

A

Bars are formed when a spit joins two headlands together - across a bay or a river mouth (lagoon forms behind)
Bars can also form off the coast towards the coast, are partially submerged
A bar that connects the shore to an island is a tombolo

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22
Q

Formation of caves, arches, stacks and stumps

A

Weak areas in the rock are eroded to form caves
Caves on the opposite side of the narrow headland may join up to form an arch
When the arch collapses this forms as stack
Over time the stack is eroded and a stump is formed

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23
Q

Geomorphological processes - mass movement (Rockfall, landslide, run off, mudflows, soil creep)

A

The downhill movement of weathered material under the force of gravity
Soil creep - soil particles downhill, wetting and freezing, forms shallow terracettes
Mudflows - increase in water reduces friction, earth and mud flow over underlying bedrock
Run off - water may eroded the cliff ace or pick up sediment
Landslide - heavy rainfall reduces friction in cliffs leading to a landslide
Rockfall - sloped cliffs exposed to chemical weathering, causes scree

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24
Q

Geomorphological processes - weathering

A

Biological - breakdown of rocks by organic activity, roots cause cracks in rock and animals burrowing
Chemical - chemical reaction where salts may be dissolved or a clay like deposit may result, carbonation, oxidation and solution
Mechanical - the breaking up of rocks without any chemical changes taking place, freeze thaw and wetting and drying

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25
Q

Geomorphological processes- deposition

A
Spits/ compound spits
Beaches
Tombolos
Bars
LSD, loss of energy due to increased friction, causes deposition of material, on low energy coast with constructive waves
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26
Q

Geomorphological processes- transportation

A

The way in which individual particles are moved at a coastline
Effected by energy and size

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27
Q

Hard engineering

A

Sea walls - wall that reflects waves back out to sea, +ve effective, promenade -ve reflect wave energy, expensive

Groynes - fences built at right angles that trap material, +ve natural process, not to expensive -ve starve other beaches

Gabions - rock filled cages at the base of the cliff, +ve don’t impede lsd, quick to build and maintain -ve ugly

Revetments - slanted structures at the base of the cliff, +ve relatively inexpensive -ve intrusive and unnatural

Rip-rap - boulders piled up along the coast, +ve fairly cheap -ve can shift in the storms

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28
Q

High energy coast

A
Rocky coastline
Erosion exceeds deposition
Contains cliffs and headlands
Large, powerful waves
Strong winds and long fetch
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29
Q

Hydraulic action

A

The power of the waves as the smash against the cliff

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30
Q

Impact of climate change on the coast

A

Climate change is leading to a rise in sea level (melting of glaciers), melting of ice is also leading to the rise in land level
Causing places to be flooded more than others
UK - north rising, south sinking with addition of rising sea levels - land lost quickly

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31
Q

Inputs

A

Things that enter the system from outside sources eg energy/ material from elsewhere
Wind, fluvial sediment

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32
Q

Integrated coastal zone management

A
Consider all the elements of the coastal system 
Protect coastal zone in a natural state
View environment as whole
Different uses 
Local, regional, national input 
Dynamic strategy
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33
Q

Isostatic change

A

Local change in sea level resulting from the land rising and falling relative to the sea

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34
Q

Key stakeholders for the ICZM in Odisha

A

Odisha tourism development cooperation - 6 ecotourism sites
Local communities - 400,000 people benefit
Fisheries department - 60 fishing villages helped to have an alternative job
Water resource department - 505m of Gabon’s installed
Archeology department culture - heritage

35
Q

Low energy coasts

A
See less powerful waves
Sandy and estuaries 
Deposition exceeds erosion
Beaches and spits
Sheltered areas
36
Q

Major changes in sea level in last 10000 years

A

Sudden rise due to sudden temp rise
Caused icebergs to melt so sea level rose
Has become more stable over the last 2,000 years

37
Q

Formation of mudflats and salt marshes

A
  • Occurs in sheltered, low energy environments eg river estuaries, behind a spit
  • as the two flows (estuary and river) meet the fine particles settle out of suspension by flocculation
  • Silt and mud are deposited by the river or the tide, mudflat develop
  • intertidal mudflat areas are colonised by vegetation (eelgrass), overtime succession of other plant type
  • Plants trap slow the currents so more mud and silt, grows upwards so is exposed for longer between tides
  • Erosion by tidal currents or streams forms channels in the surface
38
Q

Negative feedback

A

Decreases/ decline the amount of change by reducing some of the inputs
(Slows down a process)

39
Q

Outputs

A

Material/ energy moving out of a system

Evaporation, headlands

40
Q

Positive feedback

A

Increases/ growth in the amount of change (speeding up processes)

41
Q

Processes at start bay

A

Both high and low energy
Barrier beach shows attrition
South Westerly winds lead to LSD Northward
Offshore currents - north back to south
Beach was up to 20 miles out
Sediment from out at sea, coastline and fluvial inputs
Storm winds - erosive energy which damage defences

42
Q

Saltation

A

Pebble-sized particles are bound along the sea bed by the force of the water

43
Q

Scale of space

A

Distance: global - sea levels, tides
National/regional - pollution, sediment cells, system, processes
Local - management, landforms
Area + volume

44
Q

Scale of time

A

Past: past landforms, landform development, historic sea level
Future: processes (weathering), prevent future erosion and flooding (climate change), sea level changes, landforms
Present

45
Q

Sediment budget

A

The balance between sediment added to and removed from the coastal system

46
Q

Sediment cell

A

Areas along the coastline and nearshore area where the movement of material is self contained

47
Q

Sediment source

A

Fluvial sediment, cliff erosion, LSD

Where sediment has come from

48
Q

Shoreline management plans

A

Coast split into sediment cells
Each cell has a plan - aim to protect important sites without causing problems elsewhere
All local authorities in the cell cooperate

49
Q

Slapton Ley Management

A

Beach reprofiling to increase height and width

Cost £2.5 million to retreat

50
Q

Slapton Line Partnership

A

2001 after road loss agreement with stakeholders
Moved inland twice in 2 places
Example - 50% passing trade from road from post office owner

51
Q

Slapton Sands management

A

Unprotected barrier beach
Rock armour near middle car park
2014 - 5 shingle bastions to reduce LSD but were soon eroded

52
Q

Slapton sands background

A
15 miles long
Start point (south) to Warren point (north)
Was a fishing region but now relies on tourism
53
Q

Soft engineering

A

Beach nourishment - addition of sand or pebbles to the existing beach, +ve cheap, easy, natural -ve constant maintenance

Dunes regeneration - build up of dune and increase vegetation, +ve barrier between land and sea, natural -ve damaged, carefully managed

Managed retreat - areas of the coast are allowed to erode, +ve natural balance, encourages development -ve lose livelihood

Land use management - using areas of land around the coast for things of different importance, +ve natural, cheap -ve expensive to redevelop

Do nothing - deal with the effects of flooding and erosion as they come, +ve cheap and environmental -ve destroys homes and land

54
Q

Solution (erosion)

A

Rocks dissolved in the sea

55
Q

Solution (transportation)

A

Soluble material dissolve in the water and are carried along

56
Q

Sources of energy in coastal environments

A

Wind, waves, currents, tides

57
Q

Spearman’s rank

A

1) rank the data, make sure both are ranked in the same order
2) find the difference, first column - second column
3) square the score of the difference
4) add up d2
5) use equation R = 1 - 6xd2/n3-n (n is the number of things)
6) use significance levels

58
Q

Start Bay landforms

A

4km long barrier beach
Freshwater lagoon - designated sight of special scientific interest
Stacks - Dancing Beggars
Several wave cut platforms - in an area in front of Limpet rocks

59
Q

Torcross management

A

Sea wall built in 1971 but collapsed in 2001 and 2016

24,000 tonnes from Strete Gate in 2015 was washed away overnight

60
Q

Stores

A

Parts of the system that are not necessarily in motion

Beach, spits, bars

61
Q

Submergence landforms - Rias, Fjords, Dalmation coasts

A

Rias - a river valley that has been flooded as a result of eustatic sea level rise
Fjords - a submerged glacial valley (Norway)
Dalmation coasts - river valleys that lie parallel to the coast with an increase in sea level are flooded, islands parallel to coast (Croatia)

62
Q

Submergent

A

Occurs where sea levels rise

63
Q

Suspension

A

Small particles like silt and clay are carried along in the water

64
Q

Tectonic sea level change

A

Tectonics can control the spread of the water by opening and closing ocean basins
Movement displaces water

65
Q

The coast as a system

A

It has inputs, outputs, transfers and stores

66
Q

Tides as a source of energy

A

Determine where features are going to be formed and what they will be
Tides are the period fall and rise in sea level caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun

67
Q

Traction

A

large particles pushed along the sea bed by the force of the water

68
Q

Transfers

A

Processes of movement within a system

Erosion, LSD, mass movement

69
Q

Wave quarrying

A

Gas enters the cracks on a cliff causing small explosions and eroding the coast

70
Q

Waves as a source of energy

A

Erosion, deposition, LSD
Affected by: strength of wind, the fetch, duration of the wind,
The strength of the wind has the greatest impact on energy as too creates the waves
The longer distance for fetch means energy passes it on for longer

71
Q

Why was an ICZM used in Odisha

A
Suffers severe cyclones - Pailin 2013, $700,000 economic loss
36.8% of coastline eroded, 14% stable
Have heavy monsoon seasons
Growing population 
Littoral drift - 1.5 million tonnes sand moved per year
Government and world bank
Multiple stakeholders
Sustainable
Coastal natural resources
72
Q

Why were mangroves used in Odisha

A

4km lost over 50 year (human intervention + hazard)
Creates natural habitats and provides protection
Keeps up with 25mm year sea rise
Accretion levels increase by 50% more than any other coast (Kendrapara)
NGO wetlands international cultivated by locals
323 hectares of mangroves planted

73
Q

Winds as a source of energy

A

Makes waves, increases fetch, power
Wind is formed by air moving between areas of different pressure along a pressure gradient
The steeper the gradient the faster the wind moves

74
Q

bedding plane

A

natural weaknesses between layers of sedimentary rock

75
Q

strand line

A

line of seaweed/ driftwood showing the high tide line

76
Q

fetch

A

the distance that the wind or waves travel before landfall

77
Q

lyme grass and eelgrass

A

pioneer species for salt marshes

78
Q

sediment sub-cell

A

small areas within a sediment cell

79
Q

longshore drift

A

movement of sediment along a beach in the direction of the prevailing wind

80
Q

spring tide

A

the largest difference in tide height

81
Q

neep tide

A

the smallest difference in tide height

82
Q

halophytes

A

salt tolerant plant - part of sand dune and salt marsh formation

83
Q

Formation of a fjord

A
  • a flooded glacial valley
  • as sea levels rise, U-shaped valleys left by glaciers are submerged
  • they have steep valley sides and are fairly straight and narrow
  • they have a u-shaped cross section with hanging valleys
  • at the mouth they have a shallow section called a threshold
  • this is due to reduced glacial erosion as the glacier came into contact with the sea
  • Example - Sogne fjord, Norway