Waves Flashcards

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1
Q

What is a Crest?

A

The top of a wave

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2
Q

What is a Trough?

A

The base of a wave

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3
Q

What is Wave Height?

A

The vertical distance from trough to crest

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4
Q

What is Wave Length?

A

The horizontal distance between two successive crests.

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5
Q

What is Wave Frequency?

A

The number of waves breaking per minute.

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6
Q

How often do high tides occur?

A

High tides occur every 121/2 hours with low tides in between

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7
Q

How are high tides created?

A

They are created by the gravitational pull of the sun and moon.

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8
Q

What is a fetch?

A

Fetch is area of water the wind blows across.

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9
Q

What is the prevailing wind?

A

Prevailing wind the most dominant wind and the strongest wind.

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10
Q

Where does the prevailing wind come from?

A

For the UK it comes from the South West.

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11
Q

What are some factors affecting wave size?

A

Strength of wind, duration of wind and the area that the wind blows on.

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12
Q

What is swash?

A

The movement of water up a beach

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13
Q

What is the name for the movement of water up a beach?

A

Swash

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14
Q

What is backwash?

A

Water going backwards back into the water and into the ocean.

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15
Q

What is the name for water going backwards and back into the water into the ocean?

A

Backwash

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16
Q

What is a constructive wave?

A

The waves that build up the beach and deposit material.

17
Q

What is a destructive beach?

A

Destructive are waves that remove material from a beach

18
Q

Explain some characteristics of constructive wave.

A

Stronger swash, long length, less waves per minute, less energy and a flat beach

19
Q

Explain some characteristics of destructive wave.

A

Stronger backwash, short length, more waves per minute, high energy and a steep beach