chapter 14 Flashcards
waves
the time between one wave crest and the next as they pass a stationary point
wave period
the upward movement of dense, cold, nutrient-rich water from the depth of the ocean to the surface
upwelling
the distance from crest to crest or trough to trough
wavelength
downward movement of surface water in places where seawater has piled up due to the action of winds or currents
downwelling
a breaking wave
breaker
such oscillation at the upper surface of a body of water or at the surface between layers of different densities
wave
a flow of seawater on the surface of the ocean set in motion by wind through a larger area of relatively stationary water
surface currents
a repeated oscillation in matter that transfers mechanical energy from 1 place to another
wave
the speed of a wave crest in the direction of movement
wave speed
number of wave crests passing point A each second
frequency
vertical distance between a wave’s crest and its trough
wave height
daily or twice - daily changes in local sea level; a change in local sea level + height of the crest caused by gravitational pulls of the moon + sun
tide
distance that wind blows over the water’s surface in one direction when forming waves
fetch
a small tide that occurs when the sun’s gravity works against the moon’s whenever the arrangement of the sun, earth, and moon form a right angle
neap tide
ruled sticks mounted vertically in the water
tide gauges
may reach 16m (52 ft); V-shaped inlet w/ its narrowest parts farthest away from sea; a funnel to bring large amount of seawater into narrow bays; dangerous currents
Bay of Fundy
distance to either the wave crest or its trough from a point midway between them
amplitude
large , circling ocean current created by prevailing winds + deflected by the Coriolis effect + continental coastlines
gyres
