CH 9 Flashcards
Nail tips and forms
what are the steps to prep nails for extensions
-shape
-push back eponychium
-trim cutucle
-gently buff nail (sides and lateral fold too)
-scrub with nail cleanser (isobutyl alcohol) applied to lint free wipe to remove dust
-nail dehydrator ( butyl acetate) removes oil for 10 mins. safe to reapply. Don’t touch after dehydrated.
what are the 5 different types of nail tips
made from ABS acrylonitrile butadiene styrene.
full well tip, partial well tip, well-less tip, full coverage, French tips
what is an overlay
layer of nail enhancement over entire sirface of nail to provide strength, structure and support.
what is a well
shallow depression of tip. serves as point of contact with the nail plate. position stop is where free edge of natural nail meets/stops inside well
what is a full well tip
covers entire apex area, usually covers more than half of nail plate
what is a partial well tip
altered at well line to expose more of natural nail. shorter than full well tip
what is a well-less tip
has no well at all, no position stop. can be attached to natural nail wherever it best fits
what is a full coverage tip
cover entire nail plate up to the cuticle. need to be customized to fit nail plate perfectly. mostly used to create temp nail extension. decorated prior to being applied used for photoshoots, runways where nails will only be worn short amount of time.
what is a French tip
cut like a smile line at contact point. some have partial well and some are well-less. meant to be applied without blending to enjoy precut French line.
what are the two types of nail forms and what do they do
disposable and reusable
placed under free edge of natural nail. guide to extend
applied the same way but one is a sticker
advantages: each nail will be sculpted using clients natural nail - natural looking
save time not having to size, adhere and shape and blend tips.
how to apply nail forms
disposable made of strong paper with a polyester film (mylar) with adhesive back. feel form off paper and roll between thumbs to create and arch to fit natural nail shape. slide nail form on finger to make sure it is snug under free edge and level with natural nail. make sure center of form is lined up with center of form. look at nail from side to make sire it is coming straight from natural nail and not tinted down.
it is perfectly positioned when there is no gap between free edge and nail form. secure by pressing tabs together marked on form
reusable- made of plastic or aluminum can be cleaned/disinfected. more difficult to keep in place - not sticky. applied same way as disposible
what are the 7 most common nail shapes
square -straight sidewalls sharp corners
squoval- soft square. straight sidewalls, soft rounded corners.
round- edge that mimics cuticle line, slightly tapered on sides.
oval- very tapered, edge is soft rounded point
almond- very tapered, edge comes to sharp point
stiletto- long and tapered to sharp point, long skinny carrot
ballerina - long, extremely tapered, edge will be square representing balls pointe shoe
shape before blending well/contact area. once its blended, tip is fragile.
what is the stress area of nails
where natural nail grows beyond finger and becomes free edge. need extra product to support extension becoming highest point (apex) having a strong apex allows base of nail, sidewalls, and tips to be thin but leaves nail strong. apex is oval shaped in center of nail, high point always visible.
what is a C curve
depends on C curve of natural nail. in salon or spa, 35% C curve is average. Makes hand look slender and provides strength. index, middle and ring fingers should be even. thumb and pinky should match. thickness of credit card supports nail like bridge
page 264 explains dry mani process and nail prep for enhancements.
order of dry mani
-pinky of left hand. remove polish
-fine grit abrasive to shape and smooth free edge
-push back cuticles
-scrape away dried cuticle
-lightly buff with med grit buffer.
-remove dust with nylon mani brush. scrub with lint free wipe with alcohol
-apply dehydrator
order to apply tip
-size
-minimal glue in well hold at 45 degree angle
avoid air bubbles. hold 5-10 secs
-trim nails with tip cutters
- file with med abrasive grit
-med-fine grit abrasive and blend tip with natural nail- hold file flat
- buff nail with med-fine buffer to remove shine
- dust with dry mani brush
order to remove nail tips
-acetone enough to cover nail tips in small glass bowl/dappen dish
-soak 5-10 mins
-use wooden pusher to slide off softened nail tip. do not pry.
- gently buff with fine grit buffer.
-remove dust with dry nail brush
-reapply tip as needed
how to apply disposable nail form
use thumb and index finger on bold hands- hold form at side edges and roll back and forth to create arch
- snug form under free edge do not crowd hyponychium
-when perfectly positioned, press in sides of form to attach sticker to finger
-look at side view to make sure form is flat
-pinch tab at bottom edge and all remaining tabs to secure form
what are the keratin layers of nails similar to
a sponge
what should u do to remove adhesive after removing tip from natural nail
gently buff with fine buffer
what should the underside of a nail look like
smooth without any glitches
what should be located in the same place on all fingers
arch
what is the sidewall
area on side of nail plate that grows free of natural attachment to nail fold. where extension leaves natural nail
where are nail extensions most likely to break
stress area
