CH 11 Flashcards
Monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements
what is acrylic
a name for a large group of ingredients. entire family of thousands of diff substances.
what is acrylic used to make
contact lenses, cements for broken bones, plexiglass windows, makeup
what are methacrylates
a branch of acrylic family. ex: ingredients in two part monomer liquid and polymer powder
how are liquid and powder nail enhancements made
by combining a monomer liquid with a polymer powder.
mono=one. mer=units. monomer=1 unit/molecule
poly=many. polymer=many units/molecules
what are the 4 basic ways to use monomer liquid/polymer powder
- natural nail as protective overlay
- nail tip as reinforcement
- on form to sculpt extension
- create small works of art on top/inside nail enhancement
what is the best way to apply liquid monomer/powder polymer (acrylic)
natural hair brush . dip into liquid (natural hair bristles absorb and hold like a resivor)
dip tip into powder (liquid absorbs powder forming a bead)
what are three versions of monomer used in nail industry
ethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, odorless monomer liquid
Ethel methacrylate monomer (EMA) is industry standard.
why is MMA banned / illegal/ not recommended
not because it is toxic, because it is unsuitable
do not adhere well to nail (needs to be etched white damages/thins nail plate.
hardest most rigid. difficult to break, will break natural nail first
FDA says not to use it
how are polymer powders made
polymerization= curing/hardening
trillions of monomers link together forming chains which create tiny beads of various sizes. right sizes get sorted and mixed with other additives.
custom additives make powder set, make durable, strengthen, shelf life, color stability.
what are catalysts
additives designed to speed up chem reactions. needed to harden bead when monomer and polymer mix.
catalysts energizes and activates initiators causing monomer molecules to permanently link.
when does polymerization begin
when liquid in brush picks up powder from container forming a bead.
(chain reaction) ex- domino’s falling is like how polymers form. once monomer join to make a polymer, it is not easy to detach
what is benzoyl peroxide (BPO)
the initiator added to polymer powder. (same thing used in acne medication) used to start chain reaction that leads to curing.
why should you make sure to use a polymer powder that is designed for the monomer liquid you are using
some contain diff amounts of BPO. designed to use with specific monomer liquids. using wrong powder can lead to improper curing / skin irritation/allergy
what are odorless products
still have slight odor- just less than normal
must be used with dry mix ratio (equal parts liquid and powder in bead) if too wet=risk irritation/sensitivity
mix ratio causes frosted bead and slowly form glossy bead that holds shape until pressed. NEVER RE WET BRUSH (this will cause discoloration, breakdown and risk irritation.)
harden slower and create tacky layer (inhibition layer) can be rolled off/filed away with med grit abrasive. resin can be brushed on to cure tacky layer applied immediately after creating a hard surface making filing shaping easier
what is a dry bead , wet and medium bead
dry=when mix ratio of monomer liquid and polymer powder are equal. difficult to press and place. contains many air bubbles.
wet=if 2x liquid to powder ratio
med= halfway between these two. 1.5 more liquid than powder. ideal mix.
what is the perfect bead
medium bead. round and shiney. when placed on a form it will settle and not run.
what happens if too much/too little powder is used
too much- cure incorrectly, brittleness, discoloration
too little- become weak, risk of developing irritation/sensitivity
what is a nail primer
assists adhesion by chemically etching surface so keratin layers are open, clean and dry. do not put too much- can bleed onto skin. brush should hold enough to apply 2-3 nails. use a light dotting action.
wipe on lint free brush before putting back in bottle. dry before applying tips- only apply on natural nail not tips- can melt/ break down adhesion.
what are the 2 types if nail primer
acid based and acid free.
acid based was made first and the only one for a while.
differences between acid based and acid free nail primers
acid based- dangerous to eyes and skin. made first. dries to chalky white
acid free- work as well/ better than acid based. chemically bonds enhancement to natural nail (one end bonds to nail protein in natural nail, other end is a methacrylate so it binds monomer as it cures.)
dries as a shiny sticky surface.
what is a grit number
how many grains of sand are on file per square inch.
100 grits= spread apart grains= rougher
240 grits=close together= smoother surface= softer grit
the higher the number= softer the surface
what are the most common abrasives
coarse grit- (100 grit or lower) strong enough to thin preparing for a fill.
medium grit- (150-180 grit) initial shaping of perimeters, smoothing
fine grit- (240 and higher) refining and finish filing. shape free edge
buffer (100-400) remove scratches start with low grit and graduate to higher.
shiner- (400,1,000, 4,000) create high shine when no polish is worn.
how to pick best acrylic brush
natural hairbrush (composed of kolinsky, sable or both) oval round or square. MOST COMMONLY USED IS #8. avoid overlay large (size 12-16) holds too much liquid.
synthetic are less expensive but do not pick up enough monomer/release liquid properly
how to clean acrylic brush
use lint free wipe to remove powder from brush, clean consistently to avoid buildup. do not brush rapidly against towel- this can press hairs and cut them off.
wipe in one direction along towel. soak in acetone no more than 3-5 mins. use wooden stick to scrape off product. dip brush in monomer and shape to sharp point before storing. use brush cover
how to dispose of monomer liquid and polymer powder
pour into paper towel, place in plastic bag. discard in closed waste bin. never reuse liquid.
when should nails be maintained
every 2-3 weeks. can be called a fill or backfill
how to fix nail when lifting
use 180 grit file to file until its thin and flakes off. NEVER NIP. if lifting is too bad- soak off and restart nail
how to do a nail enhancement repair
apply a form under nail and fill it. file down area until it is paper thin before repairing.
how to remove acrylics
soak off with acetone for 20-30 mins gently scrape with wooden stick
do not buy cheap acetone from hardware store. use ones with aloe and skin softening agents
pay 333 for acrylic application
