CH 5 Flashcards
Nail product chemistry
what are chemicals
everything you can see or touch except electricity. most chemicals are found as molecules =”tiny building blocks” can be arranged/rearranged to make other things.
what did alchemists try do to In midievil times
turn lead into gold. now it is possible but more expensive than gold
what are the differences between gas, fumes and vapor
gas- state of matter consisting of particles. does not have defined volume or shape. very different from vapors.
vapors- formed when liquids evaporate into air. any substance liquid at room temp will form vapor. can turn back into liquid if cooled again=condensation. water acetone and alcohol form vapors. ex: all types of nail enhancements, monomer liquid, UV gels, wrap resins, adhesives.
fumes- blend of soot like particles mixed with vapors. result from burning (candles, cigarettes)
define adhesion
makes 2 surfaces stick together. FORCE OF NATURE. results when molecules on one surface attracted to molecules of another. paste sticks to paper.
oils, soils, wax block adhesion.
define adhesive
chemical causing two surfaces to stick. allow imcompatible surfaces to join. (tape, glue)
what is nail primer
improves adhesion. (polish base coat) makes polish adhere better.DOES NOT EAT/ETCH NAIL. never let touch skin- corrosive to soft tissue and eyes. use sparingly- 1 thin coat
what are the 3 types of nail primer
acid based, nonacid, acid free. helpful with oily nails. some act as double sided tape-one sticks to nail enhancement and other stick to nail plate.
how to have a good adhesion of nail enhancements
proper technique and high quality products. start with clean dry surface. nail dehydrator can temp remove oil and moisture for 30 mins. you do not need to rough up the nail. use med/fine abrasive/buffer to remove only surface shine. will have better adhesion if you do not over file nail plate.
what may cause nail bed to lift/separate
heavy abrasives/over filing/excessive thinning of nail plate causes pts to be more subseptible to infection
what to be aware of when soaking off products in water/acetone
temp soften nail plate surface for 60 mins. when using metal/wooden scrapers can pitt/gouge nail surface causing white spots on nail. avoid heavy handed scraping/filing after soak.
what are nail coatings
most important task- nail coatings- products that cover nail plate with hardened film. ex:polish, top coat, enhancements, adhesives.
what are the 2 main types of coatings
ones that cure / polymerize (chemical reaction) ex: nail enhancements/ UV gel manis
ones that harden upon evaporation (physical reaction) ex: polish, base coat, top coat
what are monomers and polymers
polymer- molecules in product join together in long chain containing millions of molecules. can be liquids but usually solids. polymerization is also called curing/hardening. ex: wood, nylon, hair, nails proteins
monomer - molecules that join to make polymer. ex: amino acids are monomers that join together to make polymer called keratin
what is polymerization
ex: track runners waiting for race to begin, once signaled they dont stop until they cross finish line. monomer molecules wait for something to trigger polymerization. this is done by INITIATOR. They carry extra energy and energize. they boost monomer with energy. monomer doesn’t like extra energy and try to get rid of it by attaching themselves to tail end of another monomer and pass energy along and the cycle continues and the chain gets longer. a billion can join in less than a second. they get in each others way and tangle up (causing product to thicken) causing strings letting it get hard enough to file. nail enhancements become stronger during first 48 hours
what are thermal initiators
used by liquid powder systems that gather energy from the heat of the room or hand. UV curing products use PHOTOINITIATORS that derive extra energy when exposed to UV
what is a catalyst
speeds up chem reaction by making initiators work more efficiently / reactions happen easier. found in every type of nail enhancement product, reason why they harden so quickly
what is an oligomer
short chain of monomers where growth halted before it became polymer. can be joined quickly into long chains to create polymers. ex: frozen microwave dinner - 3 mins to cook instead of 3 hours. important ingredient in UV gels- give stickiness. without oligomer UV gel could take 2-3 hours to harden.
what are simple polymer chains
when head of one monomer reacts with tail of another resulting in long chain of monomers attached head to tail.
wraps/tip adhesives form this polymer. tangles chains can easily be unraveled by solvents (causing them to be removed easily.) easily damaged by sharp impacts/heavy stresses. can be stained easily. to avoid this- cross linkers are used
what is a cross linker
monomer that joins diff polymer chains together. cross like rungs on a ladder. crest strong net like polymer resulting in 3D strong structure and flexibility known as nail enhancement. nail plates and hair contain cross links making them tough/durable. more resistant to staining. more resistant to solvents (water/acetone) make them longer to remove in acetone and effects of water.
what are the 3 main types of acrylics used to make all nail enhancements and glue
methacrylate, acrylates, cyanoacrylates
all nail enhancements are based on a acrylics
define methacrylate
used to make all monomer liquid and polymer powder and 1 type of UV gel
what is based off Acrylates
all other UV gels.
what is based off cyanoacrylates
all nail adhesives (glues) and wraps.
what is methyl methacrylate monomer (MMA)
banned in US and other countries. not because it is toxic or dangerous to inhale.
when properly used it is safe for bone repair cement.
why is MMA a poor ingredient for nail enhancement products.
- does not adhere well to nail plate without shredding surface of nail plate with file.
- creates rigid weak nails.
- difficult to remove does not dissolve.
-FDA says not to use it.
what is and evaporation coating
products that do not polymerize (cure) work by evaporation. no chem reaction, contain no monomer or oligomer. leave behind smooth polymer film that can hold pigments giving it color. ex: hairspray, paint.
contain plasticizers and UV stabilizers
what are plasticizers
used to keep products flexible
what are UV stabilizers
control color stability and prevent sunlight from fading/discoloring
are some nail enhancement products better for natural nail
no,. natural/organic are claims to fool. all nail enhancements are made from organic things. not one type is better than another. what’s best for nail is educated nail tech. job of every nail professional is to nurture nail plate and surrounding skin
who is paracelus and what did he learn
famous 16th century physician first to talk about poisons/ toxins in scientific way
everything is poison, only the does differentiates poison and remedy.
everything on earth is toxic to a degree. overexposure determines toxicity. overexposure causes sensitivities
how to prevent inhalation overexposure
proper ventilation, local source capture ventilation systems (most effective way) salon room air purifier designed for remove nail vapors and dust , N95masks (do not protect against vapor)
what is a local source capture ventilation systems
the most effective way to ensure safe working conditions. capture vapors and dusts at the source by removing from air before they have a chance to escape into salon.
fans and open window are no substitute . they just circulate dust/vapors around room
