CH 12 Flashcards
GEL NAIL ENHANCEMENTS
what is one of the most requested services in the salon
soak off gel polish services
what is an oligomer (pre polymer)
thick, gel like sticky acrylate that’s between a liquid and a solid. most gels use urethane methacrylate oligomer ( has excellent adhesion and lower risk of sensitivity
what is viscosity
measurement of thickness / thinness of a liquid and affects how that fluid flows. gels have different viscosities
what is thin/medium and thick viscosities
thin- brush on formulas
medium- called self leveling gels
thick- used for building and sculpting nail extensions.
what is a photo initiator
created chem reaction when exposed to UV or visible light. helps cure.
photo initiators are infused into oligomers so that when gel is exposed to light it will harden.
how does polymerization work
the linking of oligomers together in a solid chem resistant material. also known as cross linking.
light exposure to gel initiates chem reaction in nail (hear is created starting polymerization)
what are the cross linking levels of color gel and top coat
color layer- medium cross link - making it flexible and easy removed
top coat- higher level cross link - allowing for protection and shine
what is an exothermic reaction
heat when curing gel polish. occurs as each bone of polymer is created. the more bonds formed when gel cures=the more heat generated. the more bonds formed=stronger the enhancement
what are ways to control exothermic reactions
start with thin application and cure - providing protection
apply and cure smaller layers of gel instead of thicker / larger beads
slowly enter hand into lamp.
what is a curing lamp
powers/controls bulbs to cure gels. to cure bulbs must emit violet light at the proper intensity to provide enough energy
what are the differences between some curing lamps
type and number of bulbs
distance bulbs are from the bottom
bulb size
this can all affect curing power
what is wattage
measure of how much electricity lamp consumes.
ex= lamp with 6 bulbs with 6 wattage each- then it is a 36 watt lamp.
what is curing power referred to ask
curing power= number of bulbs inside multiplied by wattage
what is a LED lamp (light emitting diodes)
creates direct light that must shine directly on to gel to make it cure. cure times usually range from 5-60 seconds for each layer of gel.
LED bulbs are made in wavelengths from 365nm - 405 nm (nanometers.)
what is a nanometer
scale used to identify certain color and intensity of light.
when creating a bulb for curing gels, they harness the violet color and intensity level that will be in sync with the photo initiators in the product.
what is a UV lamp
florescent bulbs radiate light inside kazoo so all nails are equally exposed in ranges from 320nm-400nm (less than LED) curing times range from 1-2 mins each layer (more time than LED)
what are the differences between LED and UV lamps
LED have higher NM
LED takes shorter time to cure
LED more common in salons=save time.
LED bulbs last longer than UV=save money
what are soft gels
(soak off gels)
formulated to overlay natural nail
easy to remove with acetone.
some are strong enough to create very short extension but most are made with pigment and created to replace traditional polishes
what are hard gels
traditional gels-strong enough to build nail extensions
non porous surface and cannot be penetrated with acetone
crystal clear appearance, low oder, strength
LEAVE 3/16 INCH AROUND CUTICLE/SIDEWALLS
what are the different types of gels
bonding gels, builder gels, polymer gels, pigmented gels, soak off gel polishes, finishing gels
what are bonding gels
gels need a primer, base gel or bonding gel to increase adhesion to natural nail plate
sometimes acid/acid free primer is used first. often bonding /base gel will be applied with no primer. applied thinly to nail and usually need to be cured. after you will apply another type of gel to complete look.
what are building gels
thick viscosity gel to build arch/extension. add thickness to nail with 1-2 coats. must be cured in between coats. can be non or self leveling.
non self leveling= thick viscosity and leave bumps.
self leveling= more fluid and can leave nail smooth. can add thickness but not as much as non self leveling.
most are hard gels and come in a pot
what are polymer gels
(polygel/ acrygel)
created from mix of polymer powder and hard gels. thick viscosity allows more control. most come in tube and squeezed like toothpaste. can also be used for 3D art. can have amazing adhesion of a hard gel. recommended to prep with non acid primer/ bonding gel. needs to be maintained every two weeks. removed like normal gel= filing it away
what are pigmented gels
include color pigment. usually hard gels and cannot be soaked off. some create gel paint (thick viscosity gel used for detailed art) can be used for art and then apply building gel over it for encapsulated look. some as used like polish and painted over nails with special brush
what are soak off gel polishes
alternative to nail lacquers. soak off gel polishes are an example of soft gel. all can be removed soaking in acetone or product remover
what are finishing gels
gel used to finish service. create high shine , can also be used to finish extension services ( acrylic, dip)
when finishing soak off polishes/ you MUST use a soak off finishing gel as well if not it could crack on top of color when nail flexes
what are the two types of finishing cels
one cures with a sticky inhibition layer that requires cleaning
one is tack free gel curing to high shine without inhibition layer
what is an inhibition layer
uncured gel / leftover solvent creating sticky tacky layer after gel has been cured. can be wiped easily with lint free wipe soaked in cleaning solution /. alcohol
what supplies are needed for gel application
-gel curing lamp
-application brush (small flat oval nylon bristles)
-bonding gel/primers (improve adhesion)
-building gel( overlay for extension)
-finishing gel
-nail tips/forms (optional)
-nail cleanser (before primer to remove moisture/oil. can also remove inhibition layer
- abrasive file/buffer (med grit BUFFER for natural nail AND MED grit abrasive for shaping. rough buffer to smooth
- lint free cleansing wipes
how to store gels in salons
light cured so keep out of light / heat. store in cabinet.
how to use gels
temperature sensitive, thicker when cold and runnier when warm. will be affected just by finger temp. cure each finger right after application. don’t use too much product-can run onto skin creating sensitivity
curing large amounts can cause heat spike.
float bead across nail staring at cuticle toward the free edge. can STRING product on if you have low spots to be filled.
APPLY LEFT PINKY FIRST- WHILE CURING GO TO RIGHT PINKY
DISINFECT WITH NYLON BRUSH
how to remove gels
maintained every 2-3 weeks. if client doesn’t want a fill- remove it. hard gels cannot be removed in acetone so file it off
soft/soak off can be removed with acetone/product remover (soak in glass bowl and wrap with cotton and foil. reduces odor and evaporation of remover, uses less remover)
when to perform gel services
not best for short term-can only be filed off
not best for long nails extending nail bed.
gel is good for clients who experience lifting
gel is good for making nails stronger than regular polish
How to apply two color hard gel overlay
start with pink (3/16 inches from cuticle and sidewall) create smile line. cure and then do white gel on tips
how to apply hard gel sculpture extensions
place form
place bead where form meets nail
cure and add apex
how to remove hard gel and polymer gels
use coarse grit abrasive to file BY 60 PERCENT.
