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English Literature > All Textiles > Flashcards

All Textiles Flashcards

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1
Q

What is a slub yarn?

A

Single or folded yarns having long thick places, regular and irregular. Made by spinning or folding.

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2
Q

Bourette yarn?

A

Folded yarns containing short coloured bunches of fibres or yarns. Regular or irregular intervals.

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3
Q

Boucle?

A

Looped yarns are compound made by a special folding process which results in looped projections. Textured surface.

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4
Q

Chinelle?

A

Cut pile yarn, soft and voluminous. Cutting special fabrics into strips.

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5
Q

Which dye for cellulosic?

A

Direct dye

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6
Q

Which dye for cellulosic and protein fibres, nylon?

A

Reactive dye

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7
Q

Which dye for Cellulosic fibres?

A

Vat dye

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8
Q

Which dye for acetate, polyamide, acrylic and polyester?

A

Disperse dye

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9
Q

Dyes for protein fibres, polyamide?

A

Acid dye

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10
Q

What is a direct dye?

A

Soluble in water
Moderately fast to light
Poor wash fastness
Salt can be added to the dye bath to make the fibres absorb the dye.

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11
Q

Reactive dye?

A

Water soluble which form a strong chemical bond with cellulosic and protein fibres.
Bright colours which are fast too washing.

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12
Q

Vat dyes?

A

No soluble in water
Excellent wash and light fastness.
Has to remove oxygen for it to work.
Once dye is in the fabric it is converted back to its insoluble form by oxidation, making fibres too big to get out the fibre.

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13
Q

Disperse dyes?

A

Dye fabrics which are hydrophobic

Held in the fibres by chemical bonds

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14
Q

Acid dyes?

A

Soluble in water
Applied to fabric in an acidic dye bath
Good fastness to light

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15
Q

Desizing?

A

Size is a starch, which is applied to the warp yarns before they are woven. Helping to strengthen them so that they will be more able to stand up to the constant movement on the loom.

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16
Q

Scouring?

A

Removes fatty impurities.
Cotton fabrics are scoured by boiling in a soda solution.
Wool is moved through warm detergents.

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17
Q

Bleaching?

A

Fabrics are bleached to obtain a fabric which is evenly white before colour is added.

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18
Q

Fluorescent whitening agents?

A

Whiten fibres

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19
Q

Dope dying?

A

Process whereby the dye is added to the spinning solution of man made fibres prior to spinning the fibre.

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20
Q

Stock dying?

A

Textile fibre dyed in a loose form. This method is relatively cheap and has the advantage that if dyeing is uneven it will be removed by the blending processes that follow when converting the fibre into yarn.

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21
Q

Yarn dyeing?

A

Yarns are dyed before being made into a fabric

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22
Q

Piece dyeing?

A

This is when a woven or knitted fabrics are dyed in the piece

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23
Q

Garment dyeing?

A

Made garments are dyed as required. Allowing for quick colour changes

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24
Q

Continuous dyeing?

A

Fabric passes through small dye bath. Squeezed between rubber rolls, makes even cover.

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25
Q

Batch dyeing process

A

Specific weight, specific dye, different methods for type of fabric.

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26
Q

Winch machine?

A

Continuous band, passes round and round. Over the winch and through the dye.

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27
Q

Jig dyeing?

A

For fabrics that can’t be creased.

Wound on one roller fabric goes to dye bath then wound on another. Wound back onto first roller until colour is correct.

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28
Q

Jet dyeing?

A

Similar to winch, except that the fabric is moved round the machine by a high pressure jet of dye.

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29
Q

Semi continuous dyeing?

A

Dyed same way as continuous, fabric is then wound onto a batching roller. Dye is then fixed, while on the batching roller.

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30
Q

Printing advantages over dyeing?

A 
Greater scope or design
More colours
Complicated designs can be produced by printing 
Varied
Less costly
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31
Q

What are pigments when dyeing?

A

Pigments have no affinity to fabric, they are fixed by a resin which holds them into the fabric.

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32
Q

Screen printing?

A

A mesh screen is prepared for each colour in the design. Flat screen and rotary screen printing.

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33
Q

Flat screen printing?

A

Fabric is fed on to a table by conveyer belt. Fabric stop and screens are lowered. Each screen prints a different colour. Squeegee moves and pressing the paste into the fabric, conveyer moves and a new position.

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34
Q

What happens after flat screen printing?

A

Dye is fixed through steam, acid baths and scouring unit. To fix the dye and remove the gum of printing.

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35
Q

Rotary screen printing?

A

Used engraved rollers to print the design.

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36
Q

Transfer printing/sublimation?

A

Similar technique to ironing transfers onto fabric, design is printed on a special type of paper which is wound on a roller and placed in position. Fabric and paper dry heat press, which transfers design. Temperature is high enough to make the dye to turn into vapour which transfers under pressure.

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37
Q

Colour application techniques?

A

Resist
Dye
Direct
Discharge

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38
Q

Resist dyes?

A

The fabric is printed with chemicals to stop the dye from being taken up in those areas.

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39
Q

Dyed technique?

A

Fabric is printed with a mordant and the true colour is achieved by applying the second part of the colouring compound.

40
Q

Direct technique?

A

Design is printed directly onto the fabric

41
Q

Discharge technique?

A

Fabric is printed with a paste containing chemicals, which destroy the dye in areas according to the printed design.

42
Q

Regenerated

A 
Viscose
Modal
Lyocel
Tencel
Cupro
Alginate 
Rubber
43
Q

Man-made?

A 
Polyester - trevira, polartec
Polyamides - nylon, tactel,
Aramid fibres - Kevlar, nomex, zylon, cordura 
Elastomeric fibres - Lycra, spandex
Polyacrylic - acrylic
44
Q

In-organic?

A

Glass fibres
Carbon fibres
Metallic fibres
Ceramic fibres

45
Q

Cotton cross section?

A

Kidney bean

46
Q

Silk cross section?

A

Smooth triangle

47
Q

Continuous filament yarns?

A

Lightly twisting filament fibres together.

48
Q

Staple fibres?

A

Short, small fibres cut or natural

49
Q

Reasons for blending fibres?

A 
Reduce the cost of the fabric 
Different effects 
Novelty effects
Specific qualities 
Stronger
Care instructions 
Crease resistance
Heat setting fabrics
50
Q

Why are polyester and cotton blended?

A

Polyester cancels out shrinking, crashing and slow drying.

Cotton makes the fabric better at absorbing, softer on skin.

51
Q

What does Lycra give to a fabric?

A

Stretch

52
Q

Advantages of Adding viscose to other fibres?

A

More absorbent
Soft to handle
Cheap

53
Q

Why is wool blended with nylon?

A

Wool makes fabric soft, warm and luxurious

Nylon gives improved strength, resistance to abrasion, fabric lighter, wool from shrinking

54
Q

Common fibre blends?

A 
Viscose and nylon
Polyester, wool and Lycra
Cotton and Lycra
Linen and polyester
Silk and polyester
Silk and cotton
Acrylic and polyester
55
Q

False twist?

A

Twisting yarn tightly, heat setting it, then un twisting.

56
Q

Bulked continuous filament?

A

Hot fluid pushes through thermal plastic yarns against a cold surface. Filaments cool with a saw tooth edge.

57
Q

Air jet texturing?

A

A jet of compressed air directed at a continuous yarn, causing individual filaments to become tangled and create small loops.

58
Q

Slub yarn?

A

Thicker and thinner sections at intervals, regular or irregular

59
Q

Boucle?

A

Looped projections, used to make Boucle fabrics which have a bumpy feel.

60
Q

Chenille?

A

Projecting round a centre core of thread produced by weaving an open net typed fabric which is cut afterwards.

61
Q

Why do you twist the yarn??

A

Holds the fibres together
Gives strength
Adds bulk

62
Q

What twist should a brushed fabric have?

A

A low twist, fibres then can be teased apart.

63
Q

What is a z twist and a s twist?

A

A s twist is folded with a z twist yarn. Yarn is said to be balanced.

64
Q

How are tex and denier worked out?

A

By weighing a specific length of the filament fibre or yarn. The thicker the yarn or filament the higher number of Rex/denier.

65
Q

Plain weave features?

A 
Simple
Cheapest
Plain surface
Good for printing 
Firm
Strong
Same on both sides
66
Q

Twill weave features?

A 
Hard wearing 
Complicated 
More expensive
Definite right or wrong side
Uneven surface so show dirt less
Firmer not likely to fray
Many variations
67
Q

Main features of a satin weave?

A

Fray easily
Wrong and a right side
ANot hard wearing
Not many variations

68
Q

Main features of a weft knit?

A 
Lot of stretch 
Easily distorted when washed
Drapes softly 
Do not crease easily 
Ladders easy
Destiny back and front 
B
69
Q

Main features of a warp

A

Less stretchy therefore firmer
Do not ladder
Used on a variety of fabrics
Faster than weft

70
Q

Main feature of non woven?

A 
Cheap 
No grain
Do not fray when cut
Not as strong as woven or knitted
Do not drape as well
71
Q

Fabric finished?

A

Shrink resistance, crease resistance, flame retardant , water repellant, heat setting, calendaring, brushing, antibacterial, printing

72
Q

What is micro-encapsulation?

A

Various health and cosmetic chemicals can be incorporated into the hollow centre of the micro fibre. Chemicals break down and release.

73
Q

Ways textiles can be made greener?

A 
Recycle
Development of new fibres, from sustainable sources. 
Fewer dyes
Reduce amount of packaging
Using lower temperatures
Reuse
74
Q

Designers need to work with a team to insure that?

A 
Measure quantity
Safe for end user
Do not offend
Environmental issues considered 
Profit can be made
75
Q

How cad can be used when designing?

A

Computer programs to experiment with colour and texture
Designing repeat patterns for fabric
Making virtual prototypes
Pattern templates
Database of images/templates to be altered
Communicating ideas
Likely coatings through spreadsheets

76
Q

Why a toile has to be made?

A 
Tests design 
Gives ideas for development 
Shows what final product would look like
Helps planning
Sealed sample
77
Q

Why is it good that cad can create a lay plan?

A

Minimum wastage
Different sizes can be cut together
All pattern pieces are cut out
Correct grain of the fabric

78
Q

Band knives?

A

Is a straight knife which the operator pushes through the fabric layers by hand.

79
Q

Hot notcher?

A

Makes small markings in the fabric

80
Q

One off production?

A 
Bespoke
Highly skilled craftsman
Single garment
Unique
Expensive
81
Q

Batch production?

A

Batches repeated
Large factories
Completing
Some times jit

82
Q

Mass production?

A

Large quantities
Assembly line
Workers are skilled in one part
Same task over and over again

83
Q

Unit production systems?

A

Computerised system, used to plan control and direct the flow of production. Taken automatically to the next station. Rate of production is pre determined.

84
Q

Sub-assembly?

A

Where some parts are assembled before production in another place eg a logo.

85
Q

CAM?

A

Computer aided manufacture.

86
Q

Computer controlled ware houses?

A

Revolutionising the way that garments are stored and transported. In large stores a barcode system is used so that shop managers can decide to track products to see if they need re ordering. Sometimes re-ordering is done automatically when stocks are low.

87
Q

Jit manufacture?

A

Highly dependant of cad/cam
Quick response
Reduce amount of fabric in storage

88
Q

Electronic communication?

A

Communicating with other factories and stores all around the world within seconds.

89
Q

Vertical manufacture?

A

Company does its own designing, manufacture and distribution. Marks and Zara do this.

90
Q

Role of designer?

A

Come up with ideas that match brief
Identify target market
Final costs will fit in the budget
Will not have a adverse effect on the environment

91
Q

Role of fabric and garment technologist?

A 
Designs can be produced efficiently 
Needs to insure that product is made to the highest standard.
Check prototypes
Develop final pattern templates
Drawing up technical specifications
Sorting components 
Overseeing manufacture of product
92
Q

Role of buyer?

A

Anticipating demands of the retail market
Orders products
Attend fashion shows
View collections

93
Q

Role of merchandiser?

A

Works with buyer
Oversees layout of shop floor
Distribution of goods in shop

94
Q

Role of visual merchandiser?

A

Way that products are displayed on the shop floor
Window displays
Themes

95
Q

Reasons for fibre blending

A 
Improved performance
Improved comfort
Improve aftercare
Optical effects
Improved cost efficiency

English Literature (19 decks)

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