All Textiles Flashcards
What is a slub yarn?
Single or folded yarns having long thick places, regular and irregular. Made by spinning or folding.
Bourette yarn?
Folded yarns containing short coloured bunches of fibres or yarns. Regular or irregular intervals.
Boucle?
Looped yarns are compound made by a special folding process which results in looped projections. Textured surface.
Chinelle?
Cut pile yarn, soft and voluminous. Cutting special fabrics into strips.
Which dye for cellulosic?
Direct dye
Which dye for cellulosic and protein fibres, nylon?
Reactive dye
Which dye for Cellulosic fibres?
Vat dye
Which dye for acetate, polyamide, acrylic and polyester?
Disperse dye
Dyes for protein fibres, polyamide?
Acid dye
What is a direct dye?
Soluble in water
Moderately fast to light
Poor wash fastness
Salt can be added to the dye bath to make the fibres absorb the dye.
Reactive dye?
Water soluble which form a strong chemical bond with cellulosic and protein fibres.
Bright colours which are fast too washing.
Vat dyes?
No soluble in water
Excellent wash and light fastness.
Has to remove oxygen for it to work.
Once dye is in the fabric it is converted back to its insoluble form by oxidation, making fibres too big to get out the fibre.
Disperse dyes?
Dye fabrics which are hydrophobic
Held in the fibres by chemical bonds
Acid dyes?
Soluble in water
Applied to fabric in an acidic dye bath
Good fastness to light
Desizing?
Size is a starch, which is applied to the warp yarns before they are woven. Helping to strengthen them so that they will be more able to stand up to the constant movement on the loom.
Scouring?
Removes fatty impurities.
Cotton fabrics are scoured by boiling in a soda solution.
Wool is moved through warm detergents.
Bleaching?
Fabrics are bleached to obtain a fabric which is evenly white before colour is added.
Fluorescent whitening agents?
Whiten fibres
Dope dying?
Process whereby the dye is added to the spinning solution of man made fibres prior to spinning the fibre.
Stock dying?
Textile fibre dyed in a loose form. This method is relatively cheap and has the advantage that if dyeing is uneven it will be removed by the blending processes that follow when converting the fibre into yarn.
Yarn dyeing?
Yarns are dyed before being made into a fabric
Piece dyeing?
This is when a woven or knitted fabrics are dyed in the piece
Garment dyeing?
Made garments are dyed as required. Allowing for quick colour changes
Continuous dyeing?
Fabric passes through small dye bath. Squeezed between rubber rolls, makes even cover.
Batch dyeing process
Specific weight, specific dye, different methods for type of fabric.
Winch machine?
Continuous band, passes round and round. Over the winch and through the dye.
Jig dyeing?
For fabrics that can’t be creased.
Wound on one roller fabric goes to dye bath then wound on another. Wound back onto first roller until colour is correct.
Jet dyeing?
Similar to winch, except that the fabric is moved round the machine by a high pressure jet of dye.
Semi continuous dyeing?
Dyed same way as continuous, fabric is then wound onto a batching roller. Dye is then fixed, while on the batching roller.
Printing advantages over dyeing?
Greater scope or design More colours Complicated designs can be produced by printing Varied Less costly
What are pigments when dyeing?
Pigments have no affinity to fabric, they are fixed by a resin which holds them into the fabric.
Screen printing?
A mesh screen is prepared for each colour in the design. Flat screen and rotary screen printing.
Flat screen printing?
Fabric is fed on to a table by conveyer belt. Fabric stop and screens are lowered. Each screen prints a different colour. Squeegee moves and pressing the paste into the fabric, conveyer moves and a new position.
What happens after flat screen printing?
Dye is fixed through steam, acid baths and scouring unit. To fix the dye and remove the gum of printing.
Rotary screen printing?
Used engraved rollers to print the design.
Transfer printing/sublimation?
Similar technique to ironing transfers onto fabric, design is printed on a special type of paper which is wound on a roller and placed in position. Fabric and paper dry heat press, which transfers design. Temperature is high enough to make the dye to turn into vapour which transfers under pressure.
Colour application techniques?
Resist
Dye
Direct
Discharge
Resist dyes?
The fabric is printed with chemicals to stop the dye from being taken up in those areas.
Dyed technique?
Fabric is printed with a mordant and the true colour is achieved by applying the second part of the colouring compound.
Direct technique?
Design is printed directly onto the fabric
Discharge technique?
Fabric is printed with a paste containing chemicals, which destroy the dye in areas according to the printed design.
Regenerated
Viscose Modal Lyocel Tencel Cupro Alginate Rubber
Man-made?
Polyester - trevira, polartec Polyamides - nylon, tactel, Aramid fibres - Kevlar, nomex, zylon, cordura Elastomeric fibres - Lycra, spandex Polyacrylic - acrylic
In-organic?
Glass fibres
Carbon fibres
Metallic fibres
Ceramic fibres
Cotton cross section?
Kidney bean
Silk cross section?
Smooth triangle
Continuous filament yarns?
Lightly twisting filament fibres together.
Staple fibres?
Short, small fibres cut or natural
Reasons for blending fibres?
Reduce the cost of the fabric Different effects Novelty effects Specific qualities Stronger Care instructions Crease resistance Heat setting fabrics
Why are polyester and cotton blended?
Polyester cancels out shrinking, crashing and slow drying.
Cotton makes the fabric better at absorbing, softer on skin.
What does Lycra give to a fabric?
Stretch
Advantages of Adding viscose to other fibres?
More absorbent
Soft to handle
Cheap
Why is wool blended with nylon?
Wool makes fabric soft, warm and luxurious
Nylon gives improved strength, resistance to abrasion, fabric lighter, wool from shrinking
Common fibre blends?
Viscose and nylon Polyester, wool and Lycra Cotton and Lycra Linen and polyester Silk and polyester Silk and cotton Acrylic and polyester
False twist?
Twisting yarn tightly, heat setting it, then un twisting.
Bulked continuous filament?
Hot fluid pushes through thermal plastic yarns against a cold surface. Filaments cool with a saw tooth edge.
Air jet texturing?
A jet of compressed air directed at a continuous yarn, causing individual filaments to become tangled and create small loops.
Slub yarn?
Thicker and thinner sections at intervals, regular or irregular
Boucle?
Looped projections, used to make Boucle fabrics which have a bumpy feel.
Chenille?
Projecting round a centre core of thread produced by weaving an open net typed fabric which is cut afterwards.
Why do you twist the yarn??
Holds the fibres together
Gives strength
Adds bulk
What twist should a brushed fabric have?
A low twist, fibres then can be teased apart.
What is a z twist and a s twist?
A s twist is folded with a z twist yarn. Yarn is said to be balanced.
How are tex and denier worked out?
By weighing a specific length of the filament fibre or yarn. The thicker the yarn or filament the higher number of Rex/denier.
Plain weave features?
Simple Cheapest Plain surface Good for printing Firm Strong Same on both sides
Twill weave features?
Hard wearing Complicated More expensive Definite right or wrong side Uneven surface so show dirt less Firmer not likely to fray Many variations
Main features of a satin weave?
Fray easily
Wrong and a right side
ANot hard wearing
Not many variations
Main features of a weft knit?
Lot of stretch Easily distorted when washed Drapes softly Do not crease easily Ladders easy Destiny back and front B
Main features of a warp
Less stretchy therefore firmer
Do not ladder
Used on a variety of fabrics
Faster than weft
Main feature of non woven?
Cheap No grain Do not fray when cut Not as strong as woven or knitted Do not drape as well
Fabric finished?
Shrink resistance, crease resistance, flame retardant , water repellant, heat setting, calendaring, brushing, antibacterial, printing
What is micro-encapsulation?
Various health and cosmetic chemicals can be incorporated into the hollow centre of the micro fibre. Chemicals break down and release.
Ways textiles can be made greener?
Recycle Development of new fibres, from sustainable sources. Fewer dyes Reduce amount of packaging Using lower temperatures Reuse
Designers need to work with a team to insure that?
Measure quantity Safe for end user Do not offend Environmental issues considered Profit can be made
How cad can be used when designing?
Computer programs to experiment with colour and texture
Designing repeat patterns for fabric
Making virtual prototypes
Pattern templates
Database of images/templates to be altered
Communicating ideas
Likely coatings through spreadsheets
Why a toile has to be made?
Tests design Gives ideas for development Shows what final product would look like Helps planning Sealed sample
Why is it good that cad can create a lay plan?
Minimum wastage
Different sizes can be cut together
All pattern pieces are cut out
Correct grain of the fabric
Band knives?
Is a straight knife which the operator pushes through the fabric layers by hand.
Hot notcher?
Makes small markings in the fabric
One off production?
Bespoke Highly skilled craftsman Single garment Unique Expensive
Batch production?
Batches repeated
Large factories
Completing
Some times jit
Mass production?
Large quantities
Assembly line
Workers are skilled in one part
Same task over and over again
Unit production systems?
Computerised system, used to plan control and direct the flow of production. Taken automatically to the next station. Rate of production is pre determined.
Sub-assembly?
Where some parts are assembled before production in another place eg a logo.
CAM?
Computer aided manufacture.
Computer controlled ware houses?
Revolutionising the way that garments are stored and transported. In large stores a barcode system is used so that shop managers can decide to track products to see if they need re ordering. Sometimes re-ordering is done automatically when stocks are low.
Jit manufacture?
Highly dependant of cad/cam
Quick response
Reduce amount of fabric in storage
Electronic communication?
Communicating with other factories and stores all around the world within seconds.
Vertical manufacture?
Company does its own designing, manufacture and distribution. Marks and Zara do this.
Role of designer?
Come up with ideas that match brief
Identify target market
Final costs will fit in the budget
Will not have a adverse effect on the environment
Role of fabric and garment technologist?
Designs can be produced efficiently Needs to insure that product is made to the highest standard. Check prototypes Develop final pattern templates Drawing up technical specifications Sorting components Overseeing manufacture of product
Role of buyer?
Anticipating demands of the retail market
Orders products
Attend fashion shows
View collections
Role of merchandiser?
Works with buyer
Oversees layout of shop floor
Distribution of goods in shop
Role of visual merchandiser?
Way that products are displayed on the shop floor
Window displays
Themes
Reasons for fibre blending
Improved performance Improved comfort Improve aftercare Optical effects Improved cost efficiency
