A-Level Geography: Coastal Landscapes and Change EQ2 Flashcards
2B.4 Marine erosion creates distinctive coastal landforms and contributes to coastal landscapes.
What are the two main types of waves?
Constructive and destructive waves are the two main types of waves. The characteristics of these waves are described below.
2B.4 Marine erosion creates distinctive coastal landforms and contributes to coastal landscapes.
What are constructive waves?
- Happen at a low frequency (6-9 waves per minute).
- Over time, constructive waves will form gently sloping beaches.
- Constructive waves deposit material on coasts because the backwash is less powerful than the swash.
2B.4 Marine erosion creates distinctive coastal landforms and contributes to coastal landscapes.
What are destructive waves?
- Happen at a high frequency (10-15 waves per minute).
- Steep and high, with a circular motion so waves break at a greater height.
This causes the wave to ‘plunge’ and travel a shorter distance along the beach. - Destructive waves remove material from coasts because the swash is less powerful than the backwash.
2B.4 Marine erosion creates distinctive coastal landforms and contributes to coastal landscapes.
How does hydraulic pressure influence coastlines?
- Hydraulic power causes the breakdown of cliffs due to the force of the water being compressed into the cracks of the rock.
- The repeated action of the water forced in and out of the cracks in the rock leads to the breakdown of the surrounding cliff.
2B.4 Marine erosion creates distinctive coastal landforms and contributes to coastal landscapes.
How does corrosion influence coastlines?
Corrosion happens when there is a chemical reaction between the seawater (which contains a weak acid) and susceptible rocks like limestone.
2B.4 Marine erosion creates distinctive coastal landforms and contributes to coastal landscapes.
How does attrition influence coastlines?
Attrition is where pieces of bedload (material carried in the water) are hit against one another. This causes them to break apart and become smaller and more rounded.
2B.4 Marine erosion creates distinctive coastal landforms and contributes to coastal landscapes.
How does abrasion influence coastlines?
Abrasion is where pieces of rock are picked up by waves and hit against the bed, the beach or cliffs. This wears them away over time.
2B.4 Marine erosion creates distinctive coastal landforms and contributes to coastal landscapes.
What are the reasons behind the resistance of a rock?
- Clastic or crystalline
- Amount of cracks or fissures
- Rock lithology
2B.4 Marine erosion creates distinctive coastal landforms and contributes to coastal landscapes.
Why is whether a rock is clastic or crystalline important to vulnerability?
Sedimentary rocks like sandstone are clastic as they are made up of cemented sediment particles, therefore are vulnerable to erosion, whereas igneous and metamorphic rocks are made up of interlocking crystals, making them more resistant to erosion.
2B.4 Marine erosion creates distinctive coastal landforms and contributes to coastal landscapes.
Why is whether the amount of cracks, fractures and fissures important to vulnerability?
The amount of cracks, fractures and fissures – the more weaknesses there are in the rock the more open it is to erosional processes, especially Hydraulic Action.
2B.4 Marine erosion creates distinctive coastal landforms and contributes to coastal landscapes.
Why is whether lithology important to vulnerability?
- Igneous rocks - has interlocking crystals which allow for high resistance making erosion the slowest of the three.
- Metamorphic rocks - has crystals all orientated in the same direction making rates of erosion slow.
- Sedimentary rocks - has lots of fractures and bedding planes which makes them weak and erode the fastest.
2B.4 Marine erosion creates distinctive coastal landforms and contributes to coastal landscapes.
What are the rates of erosion between the main lithological structures?
- Igneous rocks - less than 0.1cm/year
- Metamorphic rocks - 0.1 - 0.3cm/year
- Sedimentary rocks - 0.5 - 10cm/year
2B.4 Marine erosion creates distinctive coastal landforms and contributes to coastal landscapes.
What are the main erosional landforms?
- Cave, Arches, Stacks and Stumps
- Wave-cut notch and platform
2B.4 Marine erosion creates distinctive coastal landforms and contributes to coastal landscapes.
What is the sequence behind the formation of caves, arches, stacks and stumps?
- Marine erosion widens faults in the base of the headland, widening over time to create a cave.
- The cave will widen due to both marine erosion and sub-aerial processes, eroding through to the other side of the headland, creating an arch.
- The arch continues to widen until it is unable to support itself, falling under its own weight through mass movement, leaving a stack as one side of the arch becomes detached from the mainland.
- With marine erosion attacking the base of the stack, eventually, the stack will collapse into a stump.
2B.4 Marine erosion creates distinctive coastal landforms and contributes to coastal landscapes.
What is the sequence behind the formation of wave-cut notches and platforms?
- Marine erosion attacks the base of a cliff, creating a notch of eroded material between high tide height and low tide height.
- As the notch becomes deeper (and sub-aerial weathering weakens the cliff from the top) the cliff face becomes unstable and falls under its own weight through a mass movement.
- This leaves behind a platform of the unaffected cliff base beneath the wave-cut notch.
2B.4 Marine erosion creates distinctive coastal landforms and contributes to coastal landscapes.
When are erosion rates highest?
- When waves are high and have a long fetch (the distance the wind has travelled over the wave).
- When waves approach the coast perpendicular to the cliff.
- At high tide, waves travel higher up the cliff so a bigger area of the cliff face is able to be eroded.
- When heavy rainfall occurs - water percolates through permeable rock, weakening cliff.
2B.5 Sediment transport and deposition create distinctive landforms and contribute to coastal landscapes.
What is meant by traction?
When rocks and boulders are rolled along the sea bed.
2B.5 Sediment transport and deposition create distinctive landforms and contribute to coastal landscapes.
What is meant by saltation?
The movement of sand or other sediments by short jumps and bounces is caused by wind or water.
2B.5 Sediment transport and deposition create distinctive landforms and contribute to coastal landscapes.
What is meant by suspension?
When light sediment travels above the sea bed such as silt or clay.
2B.5 Sediment transport and deposition create distinctive landforms and contribute to coastal landscapes.
What is meant by solution?
Sediment carried that is dissolved by the water.
2B.5 Sediment transport and deposition create distinctive landforms and contribute to coastal landscapes.
What is longshore drift (LSD)?
Movement of sediment in a zig-zag pattern up and down the shore with swash and backwash resulting in an overall direction along the coast.
2B.5 Sediment transport and deposition create distinctive landforms and contribute to coastal landscapes.
What is meant by the current?
The flow of water in a particular direction is affected by water density, temperature or salinity.
2B.5 Sediment transport and deposition create distinctive landforms and contribute to coastal landscapes.
What are tides?
The regular rise and fall of the ocean’s surface are influenced by the moon’s gravity pulling on earth.
2B.5 Sediment transport and deposition create distinctive landforms and contribute to coastal landscapes.
What are the main factors behind the creation of depositional landforms?
- These are landforms created by the deposition of sediment when waves run out of energy to carry sediment.
- This can be caused by factors including wind levels falling, groynes, refraction, and friction.
2B.5 Sediment transport and deposition create distinctive landforms and contribute to coastal landscapes.
What is the process behind longshore drift (LSD)?
- It transports sediment along the beach and between sediment cells.
- Waves hit the beach at an angle determined by the direction of the prevailing wind.
- The waves push sediment in this direction and up the beach in the swash.
- Due to gravity, the wave then carries sediment back down the beach in the backwash.
- This moves sediment along the beach over time.
2B.5 Sediment transport and deposition create distinctive landforms and contribute to coastal landscapes.
What determines the effectiveness of longshore drift (LSD)?
- Swash-aligned - wave crests approach parallel to coast so there is limited longshore drift. Sediment doesn’t travel up the beach far.
- Drift-aligned - waves approach at a significant angle, so longshore drift causes the sediment to travel far up the beach.
2B.5 Sediment transport and deposition create distinctive landforms and contribute to coastal landscapes.
What determines the likelihood of deposition?
- Gravity settling - the wave’s energy becomes very low and so heavy rocks and boulders are deposited followed by the next heaviest sediment.
- Flocculation - clay particles clump together due to chemical attraction and then sink due to their high density.
2B.5 Sediment transport and deposition create distinctive landforms and contribute to coastal landscapes.
What are the main depositional landforms?
- Spits
- Bars
- Tombolo
- Sand dunes
- Beaches
2B.5 Sediment transport and deposition create distinctive landforms and contribute to coastal landscapes.
What are spits?
- A linear ridge of sand from deposited materials formed on drift aligned coastlines usually by the mouth of a river.
2B.5 Sediment transport and deposition create distinctive landforms and contribute to coastal landscapes.
How is a spit created?
- Longshore drift occurs along the coastline but as the waves lose energy (normally due to going into a sheltered area such as behind a headland) they deposit their sediment.
- Over time this creates a spit. Periodically, the prevailing wind will change direction causing a hook to appear.
- Over time, the sheltered area behind a spit can turn into a salt marsh. The length of a spit is influenced by surrounding currents or rivers.
2B.5 Sediment transport and deposition create distinctive landforms and contribute to coastal landscapes.
What are bars? How are they formed?
A spit that, over time, crosses a bay and links up two sections of the coast (the water within the bay is called a lagoon).
2B.5 Sediment transport and deposition create distinctive landforms and contribute to coastal landscapes.
What is a tombolo? How are they formed?
A tombolo is a bar or beach that connects the mainland to an offshore island and is formed due to wave refraction off the coastal island reducing wave velocity, leading to deposition of sediments. They may be covered at high tide if they are low lying.
2B.5 Sediment transport and deposition create distinctive landforms and contribute to coastal landscapes.
What is a sand dune? How are they formed?
Sand dunes occur when prevailing winds blow sediment to the back of the beach and therefore the formation of dunes requires large quantities of sand and a large tidal range. This allows the sand to dry, so that it is light enough to be picked up and carried by the wind to the back of the beach. The dunes develop as a process of a vegetation succession