Waves and Tides

Question 1

Tides are caused by:

Answer 1

The gravitational pull of the moon and the sun

Question 2

Neap tides are when the tidal range is:

Answer 2

At its lowest.

Question 3

Neap tides occur at what stage in the lunar cycle?

Answer 3

At quarter moons

Question 4

Spring tides occur at what stages in the lunar cycle?

Answer 4

At the new moon and the full moon

Question 5

What celestial body has the greatest effect on tides?

Answer 5

The moon

Question 6

The Fundamental Equilibrium Tide model is:

Answer 6

A theoretical model in which all landmass isremoved from the earth and friction betweenthe seafloor and the water is removed.

Question 7

Spring tides are when the tidal range is:

Answer 7

At its highest.

Question 8

Waves that move freely on the oceansurface are called:

Answer 8

Progressive waves

Question 9

Forces that return the ocean surfaceto its normal configuration are called:

Answer 9

Restoring forces

Question 10

The path of a water molecule in a progressivewave is best described as:

Answer 10

A circular orbit in the direction of the wavewith only a slight net forward movement.

Question 11

Waves that are static at intervals and oscillatevertically in between those points are called:

Answer 11

Standing waves

Question 12

Standing waves are caused when avertical barrier is located at ______.

Answer 12

The crest or trough

Question 13

Wave height is determined by 3 factors. These are:

Answer 13

Wind speed, wind duration, and fetch

Question 14

Fetch is defined as:

Answer 14

The distance over water that wind blowsin a single direction.

Question 15

A point of almost zero tidal fluctuationon the ocean surface is called:

Answer 15

anAmphidromic point

Question 16

In the wave equation, C equals L divided by T.What are the variables C, L, and T?

Answer 16

C, L, and T are wave speed, wavelength, andwave period respectively.

Question 17

What kinds of waves transmit energy through all states of matter?

Answer 17

Longitudinal waves

Question 18

The two basic types of wave motion formechanical waves are:

Answer 18

Longitudinal and Tranverse

Question 19

In a _________ wave the particle displacementis parallel to the direction of wave propagation.The particles do not move with the wave; they simplyoscillate back and forth about their individualequilibrium positions.

Answer 19

Longitudinal(Pick a single particle and watch its motion)

Question 20

In a ______ wave the particle displacement is perpendicular to the direction of wave propagation.The particles do not move along with the wave; they simply oscillate up and down about their individual equilibrium positions as the wave passes by.

Answer 20

Tranverse

Question 21

What is eustasy?

Answer 21

The rise and fall of sea level over time.

Question 22

In an area with mixed semidiurnal tides, how manyhigh tides occur during most days?

Answer 22

2

Question 23

When two large waves moving in oppositedirections meet they form a:

Answer 23

rogue wave

Question 24

The process of creating a rogue wave is an example of:

Answer 24

Constructive interference

Question 25

What is the generating force and the restoring force of seaswell?

Answer 25

The generating force is wind and therestoring force is gravity.

Question 26

What is the name for a narrow seaward flow of watercaused by waves breaking in the surf zone andpiling up against the coast?

Answer 26

Rip tide

Question 27

No matter which direction the wind is blowing, wavesalways approach a sloping beach about what angleto the shore?

Answer 27

90 degrees

Question 28

What happens to the wavelength as an ocean wavemoves from deeper to more shallow water?

Answer 28

The wavelength decreases

Question 29

What is the name for tides that occur just after newmoon and full moon, when the gravitation attractionof the sun and moon act in a direct line?

Answer 29

Spring tide

Question 30

What are thethree main types of ocean waves?

Answer 30

Ripples, seas and swells

Question 31

What is the term for the tidal current that occurswhen the height of the tide is decreasing?

Answer 31

Ebb tide

Question 32

An ocean wave will break when the ratio of its height to its length is greater than what?

Answer 32

1 to 7

Question 33

What kind of tides dominate the east coast of the US?

Answer 33

Semidiurnal

Question 34

What kind of tides dominate the west coast of the US?

Answer 34

Mixed

Question 35

What kind of tides dominate the North Pacific?

Answer 35

Diurnal

Question 36

Where are the highest average waves recorded?

Answer 36

Southern ocean, bellow the Indian Ocean