Unit 3 Lecture 17 Topic 3 Flashcards
Basic weaves:
Fabrics woven on simple looms creating plain, twill, and satin weaves.
Complex weaves:
Fabrics woven on complex looms creating double, dobby, pile, and jacquard weaves.
Plain weave:
The most basic woven structure made of two sets of yarns - warp and weft (filling). Yarns interlace at every intersection with an alternate interlacement pattern (over, under, over).
How can plain weaves be varied?
Many variations are possible, such as stripes and checks (achieved through the colour of yarns used), rib weaves (achieved through the size of yarns used and an unbalanced fabric count), or a basket weave effect (achieved when two or more yarns are worked together in a regular plain weave interlacement).
Twill weave:
Diagonal lines give twill weaves a distinctive look. It’s achieved when the warp (or weft) passes over 2 or more weft (or warp) yarns before interlacing (floats). Interlacement is progressive, not alternating, and the progression of 1 gives the visible diagonal structure on twill weave fabrics.
Warp-faced twill:
More warp yarns are visible on the face of the fabric (e.g., 2/1 or 3/1 twill).
Weft-faced twill:
When there are more weft yarns visible on the face of the fabric (e.g., 1/2 or 1/3 twill).
Balanced (even) twill:
When equal amount of warp and weft yarns are visible on the fabric face (2/2 twill weave).
Right-hand or left-hand twill:
This describes the slope of the interlacements.
What kind of twill weave is denim?
The face of denim is a right-hand, warp faced 3/1 twill. The back has a reversed diagonal.
How can twill direction reverse?
Twill waves can be varied so that the direction reversées, as in herringbone fabric and diamond twills.
What is the Houndstooth check?
A variation of twill weave where the colour of yarn is varied.
Satin weaves:
When the warp passes over 4 or more weft yarns before interlacing under 1 (floats). The interlacement is progressive (similar to twill) but progression is always 2 or more. A visible diagonal is not present on satin weave fabrics. They have a smooth, lustrous surface, created by long floating yarns. Filament yarns are frequently used for satin fabrics, and the fabric is always unbalanced.
Warp-faced satin weave:
More warp yarns visible on the face of the fabric (e.g., 4/1 (2) or 5/1 (3) satin).
Weft-faced satin weave:
When there are more weft yarns visible on the face of the fabric (e.g., 1/4 (2) or 1/5 (2) satin).