shampooing Flashcards
Cuticle - layer 1-top
Made up of overlapping scales. Scales point downwards. Have no colour (translucent). 4-10 layers. Protects inside of hair (like glad wrap). Determines porosity.
Cortex - layer 2-middle
Bulkiest part of the hair. 70-80% of the hair shaft. Determines elasticity - strength. Determines texture (coarse - fine). Contains sulphur and hydrogen bonds. Most hairdressing services take place in this layer.
Medulla - layer 3-center
Inner most part of the hair shaft.
Unknown purpose.
Can be absent in fine hair.
Can be continuous or fragmented.
Acid-mantle
Coating of hair and skin
4.5-5.5 pH
Consists of oil and sweat
Conditioner
Hair is ‘anionic’ (-) while conditioner is ‘cationic’ (+)
Opposite charges attract so the conditioner clings to the hairshaft
Conditioner = acidic 4.0-6.9 pH
Soap Shampoo
Alkaline 8-9 pH
Swells + opens cuticle scales
Might strip colour faster
Makes hair knotted (which is bad) (duh)
Soapless Shampoo
Acidic Closes cuticles Hardens hairshaft Keeps hair in better condition Less knots in hair (better)
pH Scale
pH = potential Hydrogen
Measures acidity / alkaline in substance
below 7 = Acid
above 7 = Alkaline
External Conditioner
Closes cuticle scales Creates shine / light reflective Prevents interlocking of hair shafts Improves health Gives a protective coat + moisture
Internal Conditioner
AKA Reconstructers Penetrates cortex layer Adds protein --> adds strength to cortex Equalises porosity Glues internal structures together Closes cuticle scales
Hair Roots
Part of the hair below the skin surface
Hair Shaft
Part of the hair above the skin surface (visible)
3 Layers of Hair
Cuticle
Cortex
Medulla
Porosity
Ability of the hair to absorb moisture / chemicals
Poor, Normal, Good, Extreme
Elasticity
Ability of the hair to stretch without breaking
Poor, Normal, Good
Texture
The diameter of each hair
large = coarse, medium, small = fine
Amount (density)
Amount of follicles per cm squared
Ratio of hair to visible scalp
(High, Medium, Low)
Elements of hair (PETALS)
P orosity E lasticity T exture A mount L ength S calp
How does shampoo affect the hair?
- Water along the shaft remains in droplets
- Shampoo molecule head in water
Breaks surface tension allowing water to spread - Tail attaches to oil
- During massage, oil rolls into a ball forming an “Emulsion” (ball of oil + water)
- During rinsing the oil is dragged out with the water
Favourite boyfriend
Obviously Chris.