Midway colour Flashcards
How would you explain what a midway colour is to your client
This colour is mixed with a low level developer to develop the colour pigments
What effect does it have on the hair shaft?
The colour is a stronger alkaline than a semi colour, so that it penetrates further through the cuticle and may slightly penetrate the outer cortex, this making the colour last longer than a semi permanent colour.
How long does a midway hair colour last?
This colour can last from 15-40 shampoos, it will gradually fade from the hair and may leave a slight colour demarcation line from the natural regrowth
What other names can be used for midway colour?
demi, quasi, and often wrongly as a semi permanent colour.
Why is a developer mixed with midway colour?
It will develop/oxidise the artificial colour molecules without affecting the hairs natural colour pigment
How does midway colour effect the hair shaft?
by penetrating the cuticle and slightly entering into the cortex
What are the benefits of midway colour?
- It is more condition to the hair then permanent colour
- it has a gentler effect on the hair with varying degrees of porosity, this due to the low strength developer
- It can be used to refresh colour treated hair between retouches
- It will blend white/grey hair
- It will enhance the natural colour of the client
- It can make the hair warmer or cooler without lightening the hair
- Doesn’t leave a definite regrowth
- It can be less cost to the client then a permanent colour
- It will last longer then a semi-permanent colour
List the factors to consider when choosing a midway colour?
- Clients wishes, can we achieve them?
- Natural base shade; We cannot lighten with a midway colour
- Existing colour; this will determine our application technique
- Porosity; do we need to apply a porosity filler?
- White/grey hair is resistant; this will determine the application technique. You must start the application where the hair is most resistant.
- Skin tone; choose a colour that will compliment the clients skin.
- Texture; on fine hair, you must choose one shade lighter, on coarse hair choose one shade darker.
Texture
- fine hair; choose one shade lighter (target colour will appear darker)
- coarse hair; choose one shade darker (target colour will appear lighter)
- Medium texture hair, choose target shade
- Colour charts in New Zealand are made for medium textured hair
Explain how to tell a clients natural base shade
- Lift the hair from the scalping look through it, when looking down on the hair it can appear darker
- Ensure the hair is clean and dry, wet or oily hair can appear darker
- Check the hair is in a well lit area, natural light is the best light to check the natural base shade
- Check the colour in 3 different areas, the nape can appear darker
Skin testing
- Patch test
- Skin test
- Pre-disposition test
- Allergy test
- Hypersensitive test
- Sensitivity test
Colour selection
- Consultation should be carried out in a well lit area (natural light is best)
- The clients hair should be clean and dry
- Select the base shade which is closest to the clients (can match with the colour swatch)
- Check the hair in 3 different places: top, back, sides
- Note % grey hair if any, and check the porosity of the hair
How can we protect ourselves and our clients?
- Read the MI’s for the product you are using
- Have a good understanding of the effects of the product you could choose to use
- Select products wisely that will give the best result
- Do a thorough client consultation and hair and scalp analysis
- Colourists to wear gloves at all times when working with chemicals
- If in doubt of the final result do a pre strand test using the products you plan to use and check the results
Where on the head do you start colouring?
start application at the most resistant area which is generally the nape, unless there is grey hair, then you would always start there.
Retouch application
- Before: Read and follow MI’s
Check: skin test - Start at the most resistant area, this is generally the nape. If grey hair is present then start at the greyest area as this will be the most resistant area
- Apply colour to the roots as this is where there is no colour
(virgin hair) - Process for 10 min in this area, then apply to mid lengths and ends and process for another 10 min
or 15 min on roots
5 min on ends - You may need to apply porosity filler to the more porous area
- Ensure you give an even application for an even result
- Ensure you do not overlap the colour onto previously coloured hair (Demarcation line will be present)
