Bleach Flashcards

1
Q

2 types of bleach

A

Cream bleach

Powder lightener

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2
Q

Cream Bleach

A
  • A mild form of lightener, which is more gentle on the scalp
  • Has a creamy consistency as is has added conditioning properties
  • Activators can be added and this will boost their lightening strength
  • Cream bleach won’t run or drip because of its consistency
  • Can be used on scalp
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3
Q

Powder bleach

A
  • Generally stronger then cream bleach
  • Can be mixed with a higher strength of hydrogen peroxide to give maximum lift off scalp
  • Can be mixed with a lower strength hydrogen peroxide for on scalp lightening
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4
Q

What does bleach do to the hair chemically?

A

-Hydrogen peroxide is an oxidising agent
Main chemical is ammonia hydroxide

-Bleach powder is an alkaline substance.
Main chemical is sodium acetate/ammonium carbonate.

-When the two are mixed together oxygen is released from the hydrogen peroxide which reacts with the colour pigments making them lighter.

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5
Q

What does bleach do to the hair physically?

A

Because bleach products are alkaline when they are mixed with hydrogen peroxide this will soften open and swell the cuticle allowing the bleach to enter the cortex

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6
Q

Visual effect

What are the seven stages of lightening?

A
  • Black
  • Brown/red
  • Red
  • Red/orange
  • Orange/gold
  • Gold/yellow
  • Yellow/lemon
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7
Q

Removing artificial colour

A
  • Bleach and hydrogen peroxide (Oxidation) will lighten artificial colour with uneven results
  • A colour redactor (reduction) will only remove artificial colour, leaving a more even result
  • it will swell and open the cuticle
  • reduce/remove the colour molecules
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8
Q

Manufacturer instructions

A

Always read manufacturers instructions as they can vary slightly from company to company and also from product to product.

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9
Q

full virgin head application

straight through application technique

A
  • First read manufacturers instructions
  • Start where the hair is the darkest (usually the nape) 0.5 cm sections
  • Apply straight through from roots to ends
  • Apply generously to both sides of the mesh and work into sections with the fingers
  • Place the sections against each other - DO NOT PACK DOWN
  • Continue with each section moving towards the front until all four quarters are covered
  • Check the hair
  • When any area first gets to the desired target level remove the bleach
  • Shampoo powder lightener from the hair
  • Dry the hair
  • Reapply powder lightener to the other areas which have not reached the desired level of lightness
  • When all the hair has reached the desired level, wash product out of the hair, shampoo, rinse
  • Apply conditioner or antioxidant
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10
Q

Heat band application technique

A
  • First read manufacturers instructions
  • Start where the hair is the darkest (usually the nape) 0.5 cm sections - 2 cm away from the scalp
  • Apply to mid-lengths and ends (depending on porosity of the hair).
  • Apply generously to both sides of the mesh and work into sections with the fingers
  • Place sections against each other - DO NOT PACK DOWN
  • Continue with each section moving towards the front until all four quarters are covered
  • Check
  • When the hair starts to lighten (10-15 minutes) start applying mixture to the roots quickly but carefully
  • Leave 10 minutes - strand test - 10 minutes etc.
  • When the hair has reached the desired level, wash product out of the hair, shampoo, rinse then shampoo again
  • Apply conditioner or anti-oxidant
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11
Q

Watch the heat band

A
  • We have a heat band over the first 2 cm of the hair from the scalp.
  • The hair in this area (the heat band) will speed up the processing time of the product
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12
Q

Overlapping retouch

A

-This causes a line of demarcation

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13
Q

Strand test

A
  • Wipe a small strand of hair with cotton wool or tissue and check the colour
  • Remember to reapply bleach to the strand test if it is not fully developed
  • It is a good idea to remove the product off the hair at the scalp with the end of your tint brush/tail comb to enable you to have a good look at the root hair.
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14
Q

How can we protect ourselves and our clients?

A

-Read the manufacturers instructions for the product we are using
-Have a good understanding of the effects of the products you could choose to use
-Select products wisely that will give the best result
-Do a thorough client consultation and hair and scalp analysis
Colourists to wear gloves at all times when working with chemicals
-If in doubt of the final result do a pre-strand test using the products you plan to use and check the result.

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15
Q

What are the precautions when applying powder lightener?

A
  • Never pack the hair down
  • Always remember to reapply to tested area
  • Do not comb through
  • Keep your partings small
  • Ensure a fast application, but thorough
  • Always consider the hairs porosity
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16
Q

Precautions when partial head powder lightener

A
  • Ensure to take clean sections
  • Use a barrier cream on the hair not to be lightened
  • Use extra clips, glad wrap to remove extra hair from the area to be bleached
  • Protective material to cover hair and skin
17
Q

When highlighting hair using bleach

A
  • Mixing ratio: follow your Manufacturers Instructions, a good consistency is needed so product is not runny, this could cause bleach to bleed
  • Do not foils to tightly as this can cause the bleach to bleed onto roots and push the product off the hair in the foil creases
  • Ensure a quick but thorough application and bleach works quickly
  • Consider the strength of developer chosen for the amount of lift needed
  • Ensure close enough to the scalp so as not to cause an instant regrowth
18
Q

What is the purpose of a toner

A
  • To change the reflect/tone of the hair after a bleach service
  • There are varied colour choices
  • Warm, cool, neutral
  • Remember when toning an allergy test must be given 24-48 hours before colouring depending on MI’s
  • The toner should be chosen before the bleach service as to the clients wishes and to achieve the outcome the client would like.
19
Q

Consideration when choosing a toner

A
  • The hairs porosity
  • What level do you need to bleach to achieve the target reflect/tone
  • What reflect does the client want
  • If in doubt it is advised to performa pre-strand test
20
Q

What toners can be used?

A
  • Temporary toner—lasts 1-2 shampoos
  • Semi-permanent toner—Lasts 8-15 shampoos
  • Permanent toner—Grows out, may also fade
  • Midway toner—Lasts 15-40 shampoos
21
Q

Toner application

A
  • First read the MI’s
  • Toner can be applied to either damp or dry hair, ensure you follow MI’s (Hair to be thoroughly towel dried)
  • Consider carefully the whole of the hair strands porosity
  • If porosity is even, then the toner is applied straight through roots to ends
  • If the ends are porous then a porosity filler should be applied first then onto the porous ends
  • Adjust the timing to give sn even result
  • Mulch through at completion of the application ensure even distribution

-Strand test regularly to check the result. Timing may vary from 5-30 minutes

22
Q

What are the 3 stages the hair will go through before application of a blonde toner?

A

GOLD

YELLOW

LEMON (almost white)

23
Q

How can a toner be removed from the hair?

A
  • To the MI’s
  • Could be rinsed
  • Rinsed and conditioned
  • Shampooed and conditioned