Bleach Flashcards
2 types of bleach
Cream bleach
Powder lightener
Cream Bleach
- A mild form of lightener, which is more gentle on the scalp
- Has a creamy consistency as is has added conditioning properties
- Activators can be added and this will boost their lightening strength
- Cream bleach won’t run or drip because of its consistency
- Can be used on scalp
Powder bleach
- Generally stronger then cream bleach
- Can be mixed with a higher strength of hydrogen peroxide to give maximum lift off scalp
- Can be mixed with a lower strength hydrogen peroxide for on scalp lightening
What does bleach do to the hair chemically?
-Hydrogen peroxide is an oxidising agent
Main chemical is ammonia hydroxide
-Bleach powder is an alkaline substance.
Main chemical is sodium acetate/ammonium carbonate.
-When the two are mixed together oxygen is released from the hydrogen peroxide which reacts with the colour pigments making them lighter.
What does bleach do to the hair physically?
Because bleach products are alkaline when they are mixed with hydrogen peroxide this will soften open and swell the cuticle allowing the bleach to enter the cortex
Visual effect
What are the seven stages of lightening?
- Black
- Brown/red
- Red
- Red/orange
- Orange/gold
- Gold/yellow
- Yellow/lemon
Removing artificial colour
- Bleach and hydrogen peroxide (Oxidation) will lighten artificial colour with uneven results
- A colour redactor (reduction) will only remove artificial colour, leaving a more even result
- it will swell and open the cuticle
- reduce/remove the colour molecules
Manufacturer instructions
Always read manufacturers instructions as they can vary slightly from company to company and also from product to product.
full virgin head application
straight through application technique
- First read manufacturers instructions
- Start where the hair is the darkest (usually the nape) 0.5 cm sections
- Apply straight through from roots to ends
- Apply generously to both sides of the mesh and work into sections with the fingers
- Place the sections against each other - DO NOT PACK DOWN
- Continue with each section moving towards the front until all four quarters are covered
- Check the hair
- When any area first gets to the desired target level remove the bleach
- Shampoo powder lightener from the hair
- Dry the hair
- Reapply powder lightener to the other areas which have not reached the desired level of lightness
- When all the hair has reached the desired level, wash product out of the hair, shampoo, rinse
- Apply conditioner or antioxidant
Heat band application technique
- First read manufacturers instructions
- Start where the hair is the darkest (usually the nape) 0.5 cm sections - 2 cm away from the scalp
- Apply to mid-lengths and ends (depending on porosity of the hair).
- Apply generously to both sides of the mesh and work into sections with the fingers
- Place sections against each other - DO NOT PACK DOWN
- Continue with each section moving towards the front until all four quarters are covered
- Check
- When the hair starts to lighten (10-15 minutes) start applying mixture to the roots quickly but carefully
- Leave 10 minutes - strand test - 10 minutes etc.
- When the hair has reached the desired level, wash product out of the hair, shampoo, rinse then shampoo again
- Apply conditioner or anti-oxidant
Watch the heat band
- We have a heat band over the first 2 cm of the hair from the scalp.
- The hair in this area (the heat band) will speed up the processing time of the product
Overlapping retouch
-This causes a line of demarcation
Strand test
- Wipe a small strand of hair with cotton wool or tissue and check the colour
- Remember to reapply bleach to the strand test if it is not fully developed
- It is a good idea to remove the product off the hair at the scalp with the end of your tint brush/tail comb to enable you to have a good look at the root hair.
How can we protect ourselves and our clients?
-Read the manufacturers instructions for the product we are using
-Have a good understanding of the effects of the products you could choose to use
-Select products wisely that will give the best result
-Do a thorough client consultation and hair and scalp analysis
Colourists to wear gloves at all times when working with chemicals
-If in doubt of the final result do a pre-strand test using the products you plan to use and check the result.
What are the precautions when applying powder lightener?
- Never pack the hair down
- Always remember to reapply to tested area
- Do not comb through
- Keep your partings small
- Ensure a fast application, but thorough
- Always consider the hairs porosity