Permanent colour Flashcards
Name the colours that make up our hairdressing wheel
- RED
- ORANGE
- YELLOW
- GREEN
- BLUE
- VIOLET
What are the primary colours?
- RED
- YELLOW
- BLUE
What are the secondary colours
- Orange (red/yellow
- Green (blue/yellow)
- Violet (red/blue)
What are the tertiary colours?
- Red/orange
- Orange/yellow
- Red/violet
- Violet/blue
You can think of these as a reflects on a colour chart
what are neutralising/counteracting colours?
Colours found opposite on the colour wheel.
These are used to neutralise unwanted reflects
When choosing a colour for your client it is important to do a full and thorough consultation and hair and scalp analysis.
- Base shade
can we lighten enough with a permanent colour - Skin tone
it is important to choose a colour to compliment your clients skin and complexion colour - % of white hair
you may need to adjust your colour mix by adding base shades as fashion colours will go brighter on grey hair - Reflect/tone
Select a reflect that will compliment your clients skin tone , personality and wardrobe - Porosity
you may need to add porosity filler to even out the porosity - Texture
if your client has fine textured hair you must choose one shade lighter. If coarse texture you must choose one shade darker. If medium texture, choose target shade - Clients wishes
can the clients wishes be achieved?
What are the two parts to mix with a permanent colour?
- The tube of colour (mainly colour pigments and ammonia)
2. The hydrogen peroxide
How does permanent colour become lodged in the cortex?
- The colour contains ammonia
- It is the ammonia in the colour that will soften, open and swell the cuticle
- This in turn will allow the colour to penetrate through the cuticle and enter the cortex
- At this stage the colour molecules are small, once they enter the cortex they begin to swell
- After full developmentt time the molecules are now 3 times their original size and therefore become trapped inside the cortex.
- The hydrogen peroxide lightens the natural colour pigment so the newly introduced para colour molecules give the hair its new colour
What are the effects the permanent colour will have on the hair?
- It is permanent on the hair but may fade
- It can lighten which means all colours are possible
- It will grow out and need a retouch every 4-6 weeks
Hydrogen peroxide
- The tube of colour sos, the colour enters the cortex
- Hydrogen peroxide is mixed with it. If you use the incorrect hydrogen peroxide your colour could be a disaster.
- There are dangers that come with working with HP
- Remember every company will vary slightly
Hydrogen peroxide strengths
- 1.5% (5 vol), 1.9% and 4% may be used also
- 3% (10 vol)
- 6% (20 vol)
- 9% (30 vol)
- 12% (40 vol)
1.5%
- Adds colour without affecting the hairs natural pigment
- Ideal for colour refreshing
- Midway colouring
3%
- More intensive fashion colouring
- Special ashen results
- Pastel colouring on pre lightened hair
- Colour refreshing
- Powder lighter on scalp
6%
- Brighter fashion colours
- Coverage of a high percentage of grey hair
- Normal colouring to the same depth but can change the reflect
- Colouring darker
- Powder lightener on scalp
- Gives 1 level of lift
9%
- Lighten natural pigment 2-3 shades lighter
- Off scalp powder lightener