Permanent colour Flashcards
Name the colours that make up our hairdressing wheel
- RED
- ORANGE
- YELLOW
- GREEN
- BLUE
- VIOLET
What are the primary colours?
- RED
- YELLOW
- BLUE
What are the secondary colours
- Orange (red/yellow
- Green (blue/yellow)
- Violet (red/blue)
What are the tertiary colours?
- Red/orange
- Orange/yellow
- Red/violet
- Violet/blue
You can think of these as a reflects on a colour chart
what are neutralising/counteracting colours?
Colours found opposite on the colour wheel.
These are used to neutralise unwanted reflects
When choosing a colour for your client it is important to do a full and thorough consultation and hair and scalp analysis.
- Base shade
can we lighten enough with a permanent colour - Skin tone
it is important to choose a colour to compliment your clients skin and complexion colour - % of white hair
you may need to adjust your colour mix by adding base shades as fashion colours will go brighter on grey hair - Reflect/tone
Select a reflect that will compliment your clients skin tone , personality and wardrobe - Porosity
you may need to add porosity filler to even out the porosity - Texture
if your client has fine textured hair you must choose one shade lighter. If coarse texture you must choose one shade darker. If medium texture, choose target shade - Clients wishes
can the clients wishes be achieved?
What are the two parts to mix with a permanent colour?
- The tube of colour (mainly colour pigments and ammonia)
2. The hydrogen peroxide
How does permanent colour become lodged in the cortex?
- The colour contains ammonia
- It is the ammonia in the colour that will soften, open and swell the cuticle
- This in turn will allow the colour to penetrate through the cuticle and enter the cortex
- At this stage the colour molecules are small, once they enter the cortex they begin to swell
- After full developmentt time the molecules are now 3 times their original size and therefore become trapped inside the cortex.
- The hydrogen peroxide lightens the natural colour pigment so the newly introduced para colour molecules give the hair its new colour
What are the effects the permanent colour will have on the hair?
- It is permanent on the hair but may fade
- It can lighten which means all colours are possible
- It will grow out and need a retouch every 4-6 weeks
Hydrogen peroxide
- The tube of colour sos, the colour enters the cortex
- Hydrogen peroxide is mixed with it. If you use the incorrect hydrogen peroxide your colour could be a disaster.
- There are dangers that come with working with HP
- Remember every company will vary slightly
Hydrogen peroxide strengths
- 1.5% (5 vol), 1.9% and 4% may be used also
- 3% (10 vol)
- 6% (20 vol)
- 9% (30 vol)
- 12% (40 vol)
1.5%
- Adds colour without affecting the hairs natural pigment
- Ideal for colour refreshing
- Midway colouring
3%
- More intensive fashion colouring
- Special ashen results
- Pastel colouring on pre lightened hair
- Colour refreshing
- Powder lighter on scalp
6%
- Brighter fashion colours
- Coverage of a high percentage of grey hair
- Normal colouring to the same depth but can change the reflect
- Colouring darker
- Powder lightener on scalp
- Gives 1 level of lift
9%
- Lighten natural pigment 2-3 shades lighter
- Off scalp powder lightener
12%
- For use with special high lift tints and recommended for maximum lightening
What are the dangers that come with working with HP?
- It is always important to read and follow MI’s before working with any chemicals
- If using 9% or above can be damaging to the skin and hair, they have a quicker lightening action when mixed so therefore you must give an accurate but quick application
- High volume HP must not come into contact with the clients skin (depending on MI’s)
- Hair dressers should always wear gloves as there is a danger of chemical poisoning and burning to the skin
Health and safety
- Always perform an allergy test according to MI’s
- Read and follow Mi’s
- Do a thorough consultation and hair and scalp analysis
- Always protect yourself by wearing gloves
- Pre strand test to be done if unsure of result
Always weigh out products carefully - Always recap chemicals
Where on the head do you start colouring?
- Always start at the most resistant area of the head
- Generally the nape unless grey hair is present
% of grey resistant
Grey hair is the most resistant and therefore the colour needs to be applied to the greyest area first so the colour has longer on the airshaft to penetrate
what is the Application of permanent colour?
- Before colour Always skin test 24-28 hours
- Where to start on the head
- Always start in the most resistant area, the nape is more resistant if no grey hair is present
- Depending on MI’s generally 20-25 minutes, then to refresh the midlengths to ends for 10-5 depending on the amount of adage (total processing of 30 minutes)
- During application ensure there is no overlapping
- Ensure an even application
- Always consider the hairs porosity and condition, (strand test)
Virgin hair
- Read and follow MI’s. Always do a skin test and pre strand test
- Apply colour from mid-lengths to ends then back to the roots, as the heat of the scalp would process the colour more quickly and would be brighter at the roots (target colour, ends would be dull not an even colour with the roots)
- Processing - Depending on MI’S generally 10 minutes on mids to ends, then onto roots for 30 minutes. (total processing time of 40 minutes)
- During application ensure you apply colour approximately 2cm away from the scalp with the first application.
- Always consider the hairs porosity and condition
- Strand test
Colour change
- Read and follow Mi’s. Always do a skin test and pre strand test
- Where do you apply the colour? on the root area as this is virgin hair
- how long will you process? Depending on MI’s generally 15 minutes on roots , then 15 minutes on mids and ends (full processing time is 30 minutes)
Base shade
can we lighten enough with a permanent colour
Skin tone
it is important to choose a colour to compliment your clients skin and complexion colour
% of grey
you may need to adjust your colour mix by adding base shades as fashion colours will go brighter on grey hair
Reflect/tone
Select a reflect that will compliment your clients skin tone , personality and wardrobe
Porosity
you may need to add porosity filler to even out the porosity
Texture
if your client has fine textured hair you must choose one shade lighter. If coarse texture you must choose one shade darker. If medium texture, choose target shade
Clients wishes
can the clients wishes be achieved?
Florid complexion
is more suited for cool tone (reddish look)
Olive complexion
Dark or ash colours (grey/yellowish cast)
Cream complexion
Will suit most of the reflects, although it is not advisable to make the hair too dark (creamy tone)
