Permanent wave solution Flashcards
Ammonium hydroxide is responsible for this
=Ammonia - softens, opens, and swells. (sos)
=Thioglycollate - breaks the disulphide bonds
Thioglycollate
The thioglycollate acid then enters the cortex and will break the disulphide bonds
Neutraliser
When enough disulphide bonds have been relaxed and broken the thioglycollate is rinsed away and the hair is neutralised by the process of oxidation
The two chemical processes in perming are;
1) Reduction which is the perm solution (breaks the disulphide bonds)
2) Oxidation which is the neutraliser (rejoins the disulphide bonds)
What are the two types of perm solution?
- Acid
- Alkaline
The effect acid wave has on the hair
- Has less ammonia
- Needs a heat form to open the cuticle
- Will not swell the cuticle
- Is gentle on the hair
The effect alkaline wave has on the hair
- Ammonia is stronger
- No added heat is required
- It will soften, open, and swell the cuticle
- Is better for normal/resistant hair
The difference between acid and alkaline solution
Acid
- Ph is approximately 5.5 - 6.9
- Best used in fine hair
- Best used in hair that is coloured or bleached
- Does not swell the hair
- Gives a softer result
- Needs external heat i.e. drier, climazone, exothermic
Alkaline
- Ph approximately 7.1 - 9.5
- Best used in course hair which is hard to perm
- Best used on hair which is in good condition/resistant
- High ph will soften, open, and swell
- Gives a firmer result
- No external heat needed
Heat form
We need a heat form in an acid wave as there is less ammonia in the solution to soften, open and swell the cuticles, the heat will assist in the opening of the cuticle to allow the solution to enter the cortex.
Perming bleached hair
- Carry out all necessary precautionary tests
- Choose an appropriate perm solution
- Don’t use additional heat to accelerate the processing time
- Apply a pre-perm treatment prior to winding to even out porosity (porosity filler)
Resistant hair
- The cuticle is flat, hair is smooth
- Ammonia content is high
- Texture is course
- Ph value is high, to soften, open, and swell
Normal hair
- Cuticles evenly spaces
- Solution normal
- Ammonia medium (not strong)
- Ph medium
Porous hair
- Cuticles raised and often irregular
- Solution is mild
- Ammonia is low
- Ph is low
Over porous hair
- Cuticles are very raised, rough and dry to touch
- Depending on the amount of damage a sensatised solution will be needed
- Ammonia very low
- Ph low
- advised not to perm
Hair types best suited for an acid wave and why
- Poor quality, delicate, highly coloured, bleached
WHY - Cuticles are already open, so solution can penetrate into the cortex faster to reduce the disulphide bonds.
- More gentle on the hair, acid waves contain less ammonia and have a lower ph
The size of the rod will determine the size of the curl
- Big rod, big curl (soft)
- Small rod, small curl (tight)
Perm winding techniques
- Piggy back
- Contour
- stack
- Classic
- Brick
- Spiral
- Directional
- Fan
- Weave
- Root
Root perm
- Wave/curl at the roots, not the ends
- A root perm gel is used on the roots
- As it is a gel it will not tun onto the ends
Piggy back
- The ends are wound last
- It will give a firm root movement and a weaker end curl
Stack wind
- Rods at the nape are wound tight to the scalp, on the top of the head wound further away
Spiral
- This will give you a coil/spiral effect on the hair
- The ends are wound last
Zigzag
- The ends are wound last
- Gives a zigzag/crimped effect
- Can be done with perm rods or zigzag sticks
A lot of factors can influence the processing time of permanent wave
- Strength of solution
- The temperature of the room
- Water wind/solution wind
- Porous/resistant hair
- Solution diluted if the hair is too wet
- Too much porosity filler used
- processing cap used
- exothermic or heat source used
- The texture of the hair
- Climate/time of year
- Medication taken by the client
Under processed perm
- Too few disulphide bonds are broken and a new shape cannot be achieved
- If the hair is neutralised too soon this will have an adverse effect on the result of the perm
Over processed perm
- If the hair is left too long with the solution on it will overprocess
- Too many disulphide bonds are broken from the solution, therefore cannot be repaired/rejoined by the neutraliser
Sections
- If the sections are too small you will have an uneven curl and rods sitting on top of each other, giving an over curly result
- If sections are too wide you will have straight pieces at the sides and uneven curl
- If sections are too big you will get drag at the roots giving less root lift and an uneven curl
