Permanent wave solution

Question 1

Ammonium hydroxide is responsible for this

Answer 1

=Ammonia - softens, opens, and swells. (sos)

=Thioglycollate - breaks the disulphide bonds

Question 2

Thioglycollate

Answer 2

The thioglycollate acid then enters the cortex and will break the disulphide bonds

Question 3

Neutraliser

Answer 3

When enough disulphide bonds have been relaxed and broken the thioglycollate is rinsed away and the hair is neutralised by the process of oxidation

Question 4

The two chemical processes in perming are;

Answer 4

1) Reduction which is the perm solution (breaks the disulphide bonds)
2) Oxidation which is the neutraliser (rejoins the disulphide bonds)

Question 5

What are the two types of perm solution?

Answer 5

• Acid

- Alkaline

Question 6

The effect acid wave has on the hair

Answer 6

• Has less ammonia
• Needs a heat form to open the cuticle
• Will not swell the cuticle
• Is gentle on the hair

Question 7

The effect alkaline wave has on the hair

Answer 7

• Ammonia is stronger
• No added heat is required
• It will soften, open, and swell the cuticle
• Is better for normal/resistant hair

Question 8

The difference between acid and alkaline solution

Answer 8

Acid

• Ph is approximately 5.5 - 6.9
• Best used in fine hair
• Best used in hair that is coloured or bleached
• Does not swell the hair
• Gives a softer result
• Needs external heat i.e. drier, climazone, exothermic

Alkaline

• Ph approximately 7.1 - 9.5
• Best used in course hair which is hard to perm
• Best used on hair which is in good condition/resistant
• High ph will soften, open, and swell
• Gives a firmer result
• No external heat needed

Question 9

Heat form

Answer 9

We need a heat form in an acid wave as there is less ammonia in the solution to soften, open and swell the cuticles, the heat will assist in the opening of the cuticle to allow the solution to enter the cortex.

Question 10

Perming bleached hair

Answer 10

• Carry out all necessary precautionary tests
• Choose an appropriate perm solution
• Don’t use additional heat to accelerate the processing time
• Apply a pre-perm treatment prior to winding to even out porosity (porosity filler)

Question 11

Resistant hair

Answer 11

• The cuticle is flat, hair is smooth
• Ammonia content is high
• Texture is course
• Ph value is high, to soften, open, and swell

Question 12

Normal hair

Answer 12

• Cuticles evenly spaces
• Solution normal
• Ammonia medium (not strong)
• Ph medium

Question 13

Porous hair

Answer 13

• Cuticles raised and often irregular
• Solution is mild
• Ammonia is low
• Ph is low

Question 14

Over porous hair

Answer 14

• Cuticles are very raised, rough and dry to touch
• Depending on the amount of damage a sensatised solution will be needed
• Ammonia very low
• Ph low
• advised not to perm

Question 15

Hair types best suited for an acid wave and why

Answer 15

• Poor quality, delicate, highly coloured, bleached
  WHY
• Cuticles are already open, so solution can penetrate into the cortex faster to reduce the disulphide bonds.
• More gentle on the hair, acid waves contain less ammonia and have a lower ph

Question 16

The size of the rod will determine the size of the curl

Answer 16

• Big rod, big curl (soft)

- Small rod, small curl (tight)

Question 17

Perm winding techniques

Answer 17

• Piggy back
• Contour
• stack
• Classic
• Brick
• Spiral
• Directional
• Fan
• Weave
• Root

Question 18

Root perm

Answer 18

• Wave/curl at the roots, not the ends
• A root perm gel is used on the roots
• As it is a gel it will not tun onto the ends

Question 19

Piggy back

Answer 19

• The ends are wound last

- It will give a firm root movement and a weaker end curl

Question 20

Stack wind

Answer 20

• Rods at the nape are wound tight to the scalp, on the top of the head wound further away

Question 21

Spiral

Answer 21

• This will give you a coil/spiral effect on the hair

- The ends are wound last

Question 22

Zigzag

Answer 22

• The ends are wound last
• Gives a zigzag/crimped effect
• Can be done with perm rods or zigzag sticks

Question 23

A lot of factors can influence the processing time of permanent wave

Answer 23

• Strength of solution
• The temperature of the room
• Water wind/solution wind
• Porous/resistant hair
• Solution diluted if the hair is too wet
• Too much porosity filler used
• processing cap used
• exothermic or heat source used
• The texture of the hair
• Climate/time of year
• Medication taken by the client

Question 24

Under processed perm

Answer 24

• Too few disulphide bonds are broken and a new shape cannot be achieved
• If the hair is neutralised too soon this will have an adverse effect on the result of the perm

Question 25

Over processed perm

Answer 25

• If the hair is left too long with the solution on it will overprocess
• Too many disulphide bonds are broken from the solution, therefore cannot be repaired/rejoined by the neutraliser

Question 26

Sections

Answer 26

• If the sections are too small you will have an uneven curl and rods sitting on top of each other, giving an over curly result
• If sections are too wide you will have straight pieces at the sides and uneven curl
• If sections are too big you will get drag at the roots giving less root lift and an uneven curl