Seams

Question 1

Features (plain seam)

Answer 1

• also called a flat/open seam
• simplest seam
• used in many applications
• used in cheap/simple/fast fashion garments

Question 2

Process (plain seam)

Answer 2

1. Pin pieces of fabric together (RIGHT sides facing inwards)
2. Stitch along pinned edge (15mm seam allowance)
3. Press seam open (using an iron)
4. Finishing (to prevent fraying): zigzag stitch/pinking shears/bias binding/overlocking

Question 3

Features (French seam)

Answer 3

• self finished seam
• gives a neat and strong finish
• cannot be seen on the outside of the product (can be bulky if thicker fabrics are used)
• used for fine/delicate or sheer fabrics (e.g. chiffon/organza)

Question 4

Process (French seam)

Answer 4

1. Pin pieces of fabric together (WRONG sides facing inwards)
2. Sew a seam along the pinned edge (5mm seam allowance)
3. Press seam open and cut turnings (RIGHT sides facing inwards)
4. Pin and sew a seam 5mm from the folded edge
5. Press seam open to one side

Question 5

Features (flat fell seam)

Answer 5

• self finished seam
• also called the double machined/fell seam
• strong and flat seam
• two rows of stitching (one or both may be visible on the outside)
• all raw edges enclosed
• often used as a decorative feature
• could be used for denim/workwear

Question 6

Process (flat fell seam)

Answer 6

1. Pin pieces of fabric together (RIGHT/WRONG* sides facing inwards)
2. Sew a seam along the pinned edge (15mm seam allowance)
3. Press the seam open and trim the turning on one side
4. Fold the longer turning in half once then fold and press over the shorter turning
5. Topstitch the folded edge (1mm from fold)

*right sides together for one row of visible stitching and wrong sides together for two rows of visible stitching