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Cosmetics Lec - K > Moisturizers > Flashcards

Moisturizers Flashcards

1
Q

Hygroscopic substances that increase
water content of top layer of the skin by
enhancing water absorption from dermis
into epidermis

A

Humectants

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2
Q

Replace lost NMF

A

Humectants

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3
Q

T/F: Humectants attracts water on the
surface, then water will evaporate

A

True

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4
Q

Humectants are often used together with _________

A

occlusives

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5
Q

example of occlusives

A

Glycerin

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6
Q

Designed to plasticize, soften and
smoothen the skin, by filling void spaces
between the corneocytes and replacing
lost lipids in the SC

A

Emollients

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7
Q
  • Provide protection and lubrication on skin
    surface to minimize chafing and enhance
    skin’s aesthetic smoothness and softness
A

Emollients

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8
Q

Create hydrophobic barrier to physically
block TEWL from the SC

A

Occlusives

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9
Q

T/F: Occlusives may be sticky, not easy to remove, and leave
a greasy feel

A

True

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10
Q

Example of Occlusives

A

petrolatum

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11
Q

Restore, protect, and enhance the
skin’s barrier function

A

Skin Rejuvenators

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12
Q

Include skin proteins like keratin,
elastin and collagen

A

Skin Rejuvenators

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13
Q

Leave protein film that appears to
smoothen the skin and stretch fine
wrinkles

A

Skin Rejuvenators

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14
Q

Skin moisturizer formulation

A

Emulsifier, Thickening, Water, Preservatives, Antioxidants, Fragrances, Sunscreens, Colorants, Aesthetic Agents, Electrolytes, Functional Ingredients

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15
Q

Included in W/Si emulsions at 1-2% to
improve formulations’ stability

A

Electrolytes

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16
Q

T/F: Silicon is not greasy and is ideal for
oily skin

A

True

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17
Q

Include natural additives, vitamins,
peptides and proteins, essential fatty
acids, hydroxy acids (exfollients), and
β-glucans (immune protection and aid
in healing)

A

Functional
Ingredients

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18
Q

Facial moisturizers are typically ___________ emulsions, while hand &
body moisturizers are W_______ type

A

O/W; W/O

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19
Q

T/F: O/W Facial moisturizers are ideal for oily skin as it is not greasy

A

True

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20
Q

s allow sustained release of
entrapped materials

A

Multiple emulsions (W/O/W) e

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21
Q

used to avoid
unpleasant reactions and prevent irritant dermatitis

A

Barrier creams or skin protective creams

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22
Q

______ skin : humectants, occlusives and emollients (all)

A

Dry skin

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23
Q

______ skin: water-based systems

A

oily

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24
Q

______ skin: more of humectants and emollients

A

Normal

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25
Q

DETERMINATION OF EMULSION TYP

A

Conductivity, Solubility, Dispersion by dilution

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26
Q

An assembly in which a pair of electrodes connected to an
electric bulb is dipped into the emulsion

A

Conductivity measurement

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27
Q

Using either oil-soluble or water-soluble dye, one of the
phases of an emulsion can be stained and checked under a
microscope

A

Solubility

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28
Q

Emulsions can be diluted with their external phase

A

Dispersion by dilution

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29
Q

Dilution of internal phase leads to

A

breaking of emulsion

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30
Q

based on changes in the electrical properties of the SC, where amount of current is directly related to water content

A

conductance equipment

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31
Q

determined based on behavior as a dielectric medium

A

Capacitance

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32
Q

principle used in corneometer

A

capacitance equipment

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32
Q

In corneometer: the _________ (higher/lower) number = better moisturized

A

higher

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32
Q

used as indicater of skin’s barrier function

A

TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss)

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32
Q

Two types of TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss)

A

Open and Closed chamber

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33
Q

TEWL should ___________ if moisturizing agent is effective

A

decrease

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34
Q

good indicator of moisturizing effect

A

Desquamation

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35
Q

film captures the surface of the skin and compare it to
standards

A

Desquamation

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36
Q

measure of transparency based on the oil present

A

Sebum

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37
Q

ease with which the product is absorbed after application

A

Rub-out

38
Q

: behavior of product on the skin while it is being spread

A

Break

39
Q

how the product glides on the skin

A

Slip

40
Q

Aestheric properties

A

Rub-out, Appearance, Pick-up, Greasiness, Tackiness, Break, Slip, After-feel, Delayed after-feel

41
Q

Skin whitening Classification: Special-purpose cosmetic

A

China

42
Q

Skin whitening Classification: Medicated cosmetic

A

Taiwan

43
Q

Skin whitening Classification: Quasi-drug

A

Japan

44
Q

Skin whitening Classification: Functional cosmetics

A

S. Korea

45
Q

Skin whitening Classification: OTC drugs

A

US

46
Q

Skin whitening Classification: Comsetic

A

Europe

47
Q

Organelle where melanin production occurs

A

Melanosome

48
Q

melanocytes are found in the stratum ________

A

basale

49
Q

T/F: number of melanocytes do not significantly differ despite difference in color

A

true

50
Q

found
inside the melanocytes;
melanogenesis
happens here

A

melanosome

51
Q

T/F: melanocytes are not
like keratinocytes
that actively divides

A

True

52
Q

T/:F: throughout lifetime
melanocytes maintain the same
number

A

true

53
Q

how does the
melanin reach SC?

A

-it is a dendritic
cell, that is attached
to the keratinocyte

54
Q

Factors that account the difference in skin colors (Genatically
Determined)

A

Greater number of melanosomes
Producing a greater number of melanin
Producing a darker shade of melanin

55
Q

Darker pigment melanin

A

Eumelanin

56
Q

Yellowish red melanin

A

Pheomelanin

57
Q

T/F: melanin is a UV filter

A

true

58
Q

_________ can trigger the production of melanin

A

UV rays

59
Q

____________ is natural skin photo protectant

A

Melanin

60
Q

T/F: You can’t only have a whitening active, it should be coupled with a
sunscreen agent either in the same product or separate product that
you apply after

A

True

61
Q

main substrate and the starting material of melanogenesis

A

Tyrosine

62
Q

It is the rate limiting step of melanogenesis

A

Tyrosinase

63
Q

Tyrosine requires Tyrosinase to be converted into ___________

A

Dopaquinone

64
Q

Dopaquinone would be the starting material for: (1) DHI (2)
Dopachrome (3) Leuko Dopachrome resulting ultimately in
____________

A

Eumelanin

65
Q

Dopaquinone would also be the starting material for Cysteinyl
Dopa resulting ultimately in ___________

A

Pheomelanin

66
Q

both sulfur containing compounds

A

Glutathione or Cysteine

67
Q

genetically-determined level of melanin in the skin that is
not influenced by exogenous or endogenous factors

A

CONSTITUTIVE PIGMENTATION

68
Q

designates an induced level of increased epidermal
melanin content as a result of environmental factors such
as (UV) solar radiation or hormones

A

FACULTATIVE PIGMENTATION

69
Q

Paths to fairer skin

A

Tyrosinase Inhibition
Interruption of melanosome transfer
. Increased epidermal turnover and desquamation

70
Q

The inhibitor would occupy the active site,
it would compete against substrate for the active site

A

Competitive inhibitor

71
Q

The inhibitor would attach itself to
another site/part in the enzyme.

A

Noncompetitive inhibitor

72
Q

The inhibitor would allow the
enzyme-substrate complex to form

A

Uncompetitive inhibitor

73
Q

influences release of melanin particles via
dendritic tips

A

sAPP

74
Q

mediates
melanosomal transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes

A

PAR-2

75
Q

sAPP meaning

A

soluble N-terminal ectodomain of ß-amyloid
precursor protein

76
Q

PAR-2 meaning

A

Protease activated receptor-2

77
Q

Interruption of melanosome transfer involves the blockage and inhibition of

A

sAPP and PAR-2

78
Q

Hydroquinone inhibits _________ activity

A

tyrosinase

79
Q

God standard of Skin lightening actives

A

Hydroquinone

80
Q

Arbutin inhibits _________ activity

A

tyrosinase

81
Q

Inhibition of catecholase activity of tyrosinase

A

Kojic acid

82
Q

: Melanin inhibition in melanoma cells

A

Azelaic acid

83
Q

Inhibition of melanosome transfer

A

Niacinamide

84
Q

Common active for ponds

A

Niacinamide

85
Q

Inhibits protease-activated receptor 2 cleavage

A

Soyabean

86
Q

Promotes skin desquamation

A

α-Hydroxy acid and Retinoic acid

87
Q

Promotes skin desquamation but not allowed for cosmetic use

A

Retinoic acid

88
Q

antioxidant that inhibits tyrosinase activity

A

Vit C

89
Q

Is Azelaic acid allowed for cosmetic use

A

No

90
Q

Measuring the erythema (redness) and melanin index (count of the
amount of melanin

A

Mexameter

91
Q

To know that skin whitening is effective, erythema and melanin index should both __________

A

decrease

92
Q

Chromameter measures

A

Lightness, red/green coordinate, yellow/blue coordinate

93
Q

should increase over time if it the whitening
product is effective

A
94
Q

most important structural element of intracellular lipis of SC

A

Ceramides

95
Q

link protein rich corneocytes into a waterproof barrier to protect underlying skin tissues and regulate body homeostasis

A

ceramides

96
Q

reduce dry skin symptoms

A

ceramides

Cosmetics Lec - K (13 decks)

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