Moisturizers Flashcards
Hygroscopic substances that increase
water content of top layer of the skin by
enhancing water absorption from dermis
into epidermis
Humectants
Replace lost NMF
Humectants
T/F: Humectants attracts water on the
surface, then water will evaporate
True
Humectants are often used together with _________
occlusives
example of occlusives
Glycerin
Designed to plasticize, soften and
smoothen the skin, by filling void spaces
between the corneocytes and replacing
lost lipids in the SC
Emollients
- Provide protection and lubrication on skin
surface to minimize chafing and enhance
skin’s aesthetic smoothness and softness
Emollients
Create hydrophobic barrier to physically
block TEWL from the SC
Occlusives
T/F: Occlusives may be sticky, not easy to remove, and leave
a greasy feel
True
Example of Occlusives
petrolatum
Restore, protect, and enhance the
skin’s barrier function
Skin Rejuvenators
Include skin proteins like keratin,
elastin and collagen
Skin Rejuvenators
Leave protein film that appears to
smoothen the skin and stretch fine
wrinkles
Skin Rejuvenators
Skin moisturizer formulation
Emulsifier, Thickening, Water, Preservatives, Antioxidants, Fragrances, Sunscreens, Colorants, Aesthetic Agents, Electrolytes, Functional Ingredients
Included in W/Si emulsions at 1-2% to
improve formulations’ stability
Electrolytes
T/F: Silicon is not greasy and is ideal for
oily skin
True
Include natural additives, vitamins,
peptides and proteins, essential fatty
acids, hydroxy acids (exfollients), and
β-glucans (immune protection and aid
in healing)
Functional
Ingredients
Facial moisturizers are typically ___________ emulsions, while hand &
body moisturizers are W_______ type
O/W; W/O
T/F: O/W Facial moisturizers are ideal for oily skin as it is not greasy
True
s allow sustained release of
entrapped materials
Multiple emulsions (W/O/W) e
used to avoid
unpleasant reactions and prevent irritant dermatitis
Barrier creams or skin protective creams
______ skin : humectants, occlusives and emollients (all)
Dry skin
______ skin: water-based systems
oily
______ skin: more of humectants and emollients
Normal
DETERMINATION OF EMULSION TYP
Conductivity, Solubility, Dispersion by dilution
An assembly in which a pair of electrodes connected to an
electric bulb is dipped into the emulsion
Conductivity measurement
Using either oil-soluble or water-soluble dye, one of the
phases of an emulsion can be stained and checked under a
microscope
Solubility
Emulsions can be diluted with their external phase
Dispersion by dilution
Dilution of internal phase leads to
breaking of emulsion
based on changes in the electrical properties of the SC, where amount of current is directly related to water content
conductance equipment
determined based on behavior as a dielectric medium
Capacitance
principle used in corneometer
capacitance equipment
In corneometer: the _________ (higher/lower) number = better moisturized
higher
used as indicater of skin’s barrier function
TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss)
Two types of TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss)
Open and Closed chamber
TEWL should ___________ if moisturizing agent is effective
decrease
good indicator of moisturizing effect
Desquamation
film captures the surface of the skin and compare it to
standards
Desquamation
measure of transparency based on the oil present
Sebum
ease with which the product is absorbed after application
Rub-out
: behavior of product on the skin while it is being spread
Break
how the product glides on the skin
Slip
Aestheric properties
Rub-out, Appearance, Pick-up, Greasiness, Tackiness, Break, Slip, After-feel, Delayed after-feel
Skin whitening Classification: Special-purpose cosmetic
China
Skin whitening Classification: Medicated cosmetic
Taiwan
Skin whitening Classification: Quasi-drug
Japan
Skin whitening Classification: Functional cosmetics
S. Korea
Skin whitening Classification: OTC drugs
US
Skin whitening Classification: Comsetic
Europe
Organelle where melanin production occurs
Melanosome
melanocytes are found in the stratum ________
basale
T/F: number of melanocytes do not significantly differ despite difference in color
true
found
inside the melanocytes;
melanogenesis
happens here
melanosome
T/F: melanocytes are not
like keratinocytes
that actively divides
True
T/:F: throughout lifetime
melanocytes maintain the same
number
true
how does the
melanin reach SC?
-it is a dendritic
cell, that is attached
to the keratinocyte
Factors that account the difference in skin colors (Genatically
Determined)
Greater number of melanosomes
Producing a greater number of melanin
Producing a darker shade of melanin
Darker pigment melanin
Eumelanin
Yellowish red melanin
Pheomelanin
T/F: melanin is a UV filter
true
_________ can trigger the production of melanin
UV rays
____________ is natural skin photo protectant
Melanin
T/F: You can’t only have a whitening active, it should be coupled with a
sunscreen agent either in the same product or separate product that
you apply after
True
main substrate and the starting material of melanogenesis
Tyrosine
It is the rate limiting step of melanogenesis
Tyrosinase
Tyrosine requires Tyrosinase to be converted into ___________
Dopaquinone
Dopaquinone would be the starting material for: (1) DHI (2)
Dopachrome (3) Leuko Dopachrome resulting ultimately in
____________
Eumelanin
Dopaquinone would also be the starting material for Cysteinyl
Dopa resulting ultimately in ___________
Pheomelanin
both sulfur containing compounds
Glutathione or Cysteine
genetically-determined level of melanin in the skin that is
not influenced by exogenous or endogenous factors
CONSTITUTIVE PIGMENTATION
designates an induced level of increased epidermal
melanin content as a result of environmental factors such
as (UV) solar radiation or hormones
FACULTATIVE PIGMENTATION
Paths to fairer skin
Tyrosinase Inhibition
Interruption of melanosome transfer
. Increased epidermal turnover and desquamation
The inhibitor would occupy the active site,
it would compete against substrate for the active site
Competitive inhibitor
The inhibitor would attach itself to
another site/part in the enzyme.
Noncompetitive inhibitor
The inhibitor would allow the
enzyme-substrate complex to form
Uncompetitive inhibitor
influences release of melanin particles via
dendritic tips
sAPP
mediates
melanosomal transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes
PAR-2
sAPP meaning
soluble N-terminal ectodomain of ß-amyloid
precursor protein
PAR-2 meaning
Protease activated receptor-2
Interruption of melanosome transfer involves the blockage and inhibition of
sAPP and PAR-2
Hydroquinone inhibits _________ activity
tyrosinase
God standard of Skin lightening actives
Hydroquinone
Arbutin inhibits _________ activity
tyrosinase
Inhibition of catecholase activity of tyrosinase
Kojic acid
: Melanin inhibition in melanoma cells
Azelaic acid
Inhibition of melanosome transfer
Niacinamide
Common active for ponds
Niacinamide
Inhibits protease-activated receptor 2 cleavage
Soyabean
Promotes skin desquamation
α-Hydroxy acid and Retinoic acid
Promotes skin desquamation but not allowed for cosmetic use
Retinoic acid
antioxidant that inhibits tyrosinase activity
Vit C
Is Azelaic acid allowed for cosmetic use
No
Measuring the erythema (redness) and melanin index (count of the
amount of melanin
Mexameter
To know that skin whitening is effective, erythema and melanin index should both __________
decrease
Chromameter measures
Lightness, red/green coordinate, yellow/blue coordinate
should increase over time if it the whitening
product is effective
most important structural element of intracellular lipis of SC
Ceramides
link protein rich corneocytes into a waterproof barrier to protect underlying skin tissues and regulate body homeostasis
ceramides
reduce dry skin symptoms
ceramides
