Anti-Aging Flashcards
This type of aging is time based
Intrinsic
This type of aging is based on external factors
Extrinsic
Type of Aging: Cell senescence, lowering of hormones
Intrinsic
Type of Aging: increase Mitochondrial DNA damage
Intrinsic
Type of Aging: Direct Protein Damage
Extrinsic
Type of Aging: Breakdown of Amino Acids
Extrinsic
Chronological aging process
Intrinsic
Affects the skin on the entire body
Intrinsic
Slow, continuous, and irreversible tissue degradation
Intrinsic
Intrinsic Aging is reversible or irreversible?
irreversible
Smooth, thin, pale, and finely-wrinkled
Intrinsic
Thinning of dermis, degeneration of elastin, loss of hydration, decrease immune cell function
Intrinsic
What is the purpose of Epidermal-dermal junction?
Transport of nutrients from the dermis to the epidermis
If the epidermal-dermal junction _________ = transport of nutrients is not efficient
flattens
aged skin have ______ (more/less) densed melanocyte
less dense
aged skin have ________ (more/less) blood vessles and (more/less) vascular tissues
less; less
shrinking of sebaceous glands = __________ (smaller/bigger) pores
bigger pores
This is due to environmental factors such as pollutants
Extrinsic
Primary factors of Extrinsic Aging
UV radiation (photoaging) and smoking
Affects skin of the face, neck, hands, and forearms
Extrinsic
Coarse skin with wrinkles, hyperpigmented areas, sallowness, increased fragility, textural roughness, and telangiectasia
Extrinsic
grayish-greenish yellow
sallowness
telangiectasia
dilated blood vessels evident
Anti-aging products should be able to penetrate the ___________
dermis
Anti-aging products should counter:
Oxidation
Protein Damage
UV radiation
Naturally-sourced ingredients with multiple effects
Botanical extracts
Used in very small amounts
Botanical extracts
Disadvantages of Botanical Extracts
- composition may vary
- hard to standardize the amount of active ingredients
- extraction method
- availability
- discoloration
Basis of the effects of botanical extracts is the _______
known effects
Coffee
Antioxidant
Black Tea
Photoprotection
Chamomile
Calming & Anti-inflammatory
Blueberry
Skin lightening
Witch hazel
Skin tightening
Jojoba oil, coconut oil
Emollient
Mulberry (Arbutin)
Skin whitening
Protect cells from damage by neutralizing free radicals
ANTIOXIDANTS
vitamin C, B3 (Niacinamide), and E; grape seed extract, resveratrol, coenzyme Q10
ANTIOXIDANTS
May stimulate collagen production, preserve hyaluronic acid levels, and exert anti-inflammatory effects
ANTIOXIDANTS
part of protein, not the whole protein sequence
Peptides
Applied topically or as injectables
Peptides and protein
Has anti-inflammatory, wrinkle reduction, skin firming, smoothening, moisturizing, and protective effects
Peptides and protein
Collagen, elastin, hydrolyzed wheat, soy protein, neuropeptides like botulinum toxin (BOTOX)
Peptides and protein
block the release of acetylcholine that would stop muscle contraction
Botulinum Toxin
Is botulinum toxin (botox) reversible or irreversible?
Reversible/Not permanent
desquamation, promotes cell renewal
retinoids
T/F: Retinoids are lipophilic molecules that can penetrate the epidermis and enter the dermis
True
Improve surface roughness and age spots, reduce fine line by decreasing collagen breakdown
retinoids
T/F: Retinoids can irritate the skin & cause photosensitization
true
Retinoids are ideally used at
night
Usually it is not used for rubbing, light touch only
Retinoids
Retinyl esters, retinol, retinaldehyde,
Retinoids
retinoic acid
Tretinoin
OTC retinoids
retinoic acid
Naturally-occurring organic carboxylic acids
Hydroxy Acids
lactic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and citric acid;
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
AHA that has a natural moisturizing factor
Lactic Acid
AHA that is a pH adjuster
Citric Acid
Hydroxy acids that are used as exfoliants, skin desquamation, and are generally lighter than tretinoin
AHAs
beta-hydroxybutyric acid
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)
gluconolactone
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)
lactobionic acid
Bionic Acids (BAs)
salicylic acid
Aromatic Acids (AMAs)
This Hydroxy Acid is also a keratolytic agent
Salicylic Acid (AMA)
Promote exfoliation, moisturization, anti-inflammatory, and anti-oxidative
Hydroxy Acids
Photosensitivity associated with the use of _____________ and AHAs is _________
retinoids; reversible
Types of Chemical peels
Superficial, medium-depth, deep peels
Types of Chemical peels: Surface desquamation
Superficial
Types of Chemical peels: Reaches the epidermis only
Superficial
Types of Chemical peels: Damage entire epidermis and upper dermis
Medium-depth peels
Types of Chemical peels: Wound the mid-dermis
Deep peels
Types of Chemical peels: Protein coagulation and complete peeling of epidermis with restructuring of basal layer and restoration of dermis
Deep peels
___________ (lipophilic/hydrophilic) components penetrate the epidermis and dermis better
Lipophilic
______________ has better penetration in the epidermis but in the lower layer to the dermis we need also a measure of _____________.
Lipophilic; hydrophilicity
Better absorption is achieved with smaller particle size, more lipophilic, ______________
ionization (better = non-ionized)
Microscopic spherical vesicles with lipid bilayer structure
Liposomes
May be incorporated with hydrophilic and hydrophobic actives
Liposomes
Delivery system that may also act as moisturizer
Liposomes
May shorten formulation shelf-life
Liposomes
Spherical vesicles made of nonionic surfactants
Niosomes
Accommodates active ingredients with wide range of solubility
Niosomes
No moisturizing effect
Niosomes
Have better oxidative stability than liposomes
Niosomes
Disadvantage: Limitation on the drug actives you can incorporate
1st generation is SLN
it allows flexibility in terms of ingredients that can be incorporated
2nd Generation NLC
Provides light
coverage,
UV protection,
hydration, and antiaging benefits
BEAUTY BALM / BLEMISH BALM
Lighter than
foundation
but heavier than
tinted
moisturizer
BEAUTY BALM / BLEMISH BALM
Address skin
discoloration,
dullness,
or sallowness
COLOR CORRECTING
Contain
light-diffusing
particles and
antioxidant
COLOR CORRECTING
Offer SPF protection
COLOR CORRECTING
Combines benefits
from
BB and CC creams
with primary focus
on antiaging
DAILY DEFENSE OR DYNAMIC DO-ALL
Help target
appearance
of wrinkles
DAILY DEFENSE OR DYNAMIC DO-ALL