Grapes and wines of Tokaji (Hungary)

Question 1

Describe the climate of Tokaj with associated features and best vineyard locations

Answer 1

Moderate climate, best vineyards are on slopes with southerly aspects. Bodrog and Tisza rivers and tributaries help generate early morning humidity necessary for development of noblerot

Question 2

How is Tokaji typically made? Describe the characteristics of the principle grape

Answer 2

Using three principal grape varieties often in a blend, the principle is Furmint which makes concentrated, high acid white wines, flavours of apple when young, developing into nuts and honey as they age. Can make premium dry white wine but is also late ripening and susceptible to botrytis, so is also the principle variety to make sweet Aszú wine

Hárslevelű is late ripening, contributes perfume to a blend

Sárga Muskotály (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) is used for its aromatic qualities

Question 3

How are dry wines and sweet wines in Tokaj bottled?

Answer 3

Dry wines: 75cL bottles

Sweet wines: 50cL bottles

Question 4

Describe the harvest process of sweet Tokaji

Answer 4

A producer will usually make a number of different wine styles each vintage, depending on the level of noble rot development.
Pickers separate grapes into three separate categories during harvest:
1) Noble rot is widespread: pickers pass several times through vineyard selecting individual aszú (rotten) grapes. Unaffected bunches of grapes are collected separately
2) Szamorodni: ‘as it comes’ - bunches partially affected by noble rot are harvested

Question 5

Describe typical dry wine styles in Tokaj

Answer 5

Usually made from Furmint
Simple, unoaked, drink when young
More concentrated age-worthy blends, usually fermented and matured in new oak

Question 6

Describe style and winemaking of Tokaji Szamorodni

Answer 6

Made from grapes harvested as Szamorodni (grape bunches partially affected by noble rot).
Can be dry (száraz) or sweet (édes) depending on amount of noble rot present
Noble rot character (honey, apricot, citrus zest, dried fruit aromas)
Wines must be aged in cask for a minimum of 1 year, and be 2 years old before release (most are aged longer).
Casks are not completely filled, enables flor-like yeast to form naturally on the wine, and wine develops character similar to Fino Sherry.
NOTE yeast does not play a role with sweet wines, which have oxidative character instead (modern trend is to use less-oxidative sweet wine by filling casks completely)

Question 7

Describe style and winemaking of Tokaji Aszú

Answer 7

Starts with base wine from healthy grapes.
Before, during or after fermentation, aszú berries are macerated in the base wine for 12-60h
Traditionally made paste using aszú berries, but now avoided to avoid bitter flavour extraction
The mixture of base wine and aszú is pressed, then wine is matured for some time in oak
Level of sweetness (puttony) of final wine is determined by the amount of aszú berries used
Classic Tokaji is deep amber, high acidity, intense aromas and flavours of orange peel, apricots and honey
Wines become more concentrated and intense as they rise up sweetness scale

Question 8

Describe style and winemaking of Tokaji Eszencia

Answer 8

Eszencia = essence/nectar
Extremely rare, seldom available outside production region
Using only free-run juice of aszú berries
Must is so sweet it can take years to ferment, and even then the wines are very low in alcohol (often <5% abv).
Legal minimum residual sugar level is 450g/L
High sugar is balanced by very high acidity, with enormously concentrated flavour. Can mature and retain freshness for a century or more.

Question 9

Describe modern sweet wine winemaking and style

Answer 9

Typically made from grapes left on the vine for a long time i.e. Late Harvest.
Some may use botrytis-affected fruit
Where noble rot is present, the wines are produced by fermenting botrytised grapes (e.g. like for Sauternes or TBA) rather than via maceration with aszú berries.
Can be matured for a shorter time than Aszú
Typically labelled ‘Late Harvest’

Question 10

How have the laws changed around sweet wine labelling?

Answer 10

Tokaji Aszú: traditionally minimum residual sugar was 60g/L, and labelled on a scale of three to 6 puttonyos depending on amount of residual sugar above the minimum. New laws from 2013 = new minimum of 120g/L (was 5 puttonyos). Wines with lower levels of residual sugar must be labelled ‘Late Harvest’ or Tokaji Szamorodni depending on how they are made.
Minimum ageing requirements: traditionally 24 months in oak, only released January in 4th year after harvest. New 2013 laws: Tokaji Aszú is aged for 18 months minimum in oak, can be released January of 3rd year after harvest.
Aszú Eszencia: traditionally sweetest, minimum 180g/L residual sugar. New 2013 laws: abolished labelling term (Note Tokaji Eszencia still exists)