Facial Theory Flashcards
*State the 4 origins of raw materials:
- Mineral origins (earth)
- animal origins
- vegetable origins (plant)
- the chemical industry
*Ingredients that keep oil and water solutions mixed well
Emulsifier
*Ingredients in cosmetics that allow the cosmetic to be able to slip across or onto your skin. They break up oils, fats and other debris and help separate it from the skin.
Surfactant
- Used for the controlled realize effect
- improve the delivery of nutrients, skin protection and duration of moisturizers
Polymers
*Hollow spheres made of phospholipids. As it penetrates the skin it will dissolve and release the nutrient inside to carry out its function.
Liposomes
*Oxygen atoms that are unstable because they have lost an electron in their outer orbit.
Free radicals
*Other factors that contribute to free radicals in the body:
- sun exposure
- smoking
- alcohol
- pollutants
- stress
Peptides are the main component of _____.
Protein
What is the main benefit of alginates?
They are extracted from seaweed. Fat reducing, normalize skin moisture content, provide suppleness to the skin.
*Azulene is commonly used for _______ and ______ skin types.
Irritated and sensitive
*List 3 preservatives that also benefit the skin in a positive way.
Magnesium chloride
Sodium chloride
Urea
Tissular extracts are from animal origin. T or F
True
Royal jelly is rejuvenating. T or F
True
Mineral oil is an excellent excipient. T or F
False
*What are the 2 categories of emulsions and what skin type are they suited for?
Oil in water: client who is lacking oils, therefore very dry
Water in oil: client who is already producing too much oil and so the emulsion is adding to the problem
Explain the benefits and disadvantages to the use of salicylic acid:
Improves the look and feel of skin, acts as an antiseptic. In high concentrations it can be absorbed through the skin and cause redness and rashes.
*Oil in water emulsions are used for normal skin. T or F
True
*Describe an excipient, state the 2 categories:
Base in which inactive ingredients are added to be more readily absorbed
- Gels
- Emulsions
*Absorbing masks are good for alipic skin. T or F
False
- Alipic skin is dry therefore absorbing masks would make the skin worse
*Vitamin A, C, E are antioxidants. T or F
True
Beeswax properties:
- germicidal
- skin softening
- anti-inflammatory
- antioxidant
- antibacterial
*Natural base cosmetic is less toxic than synthetic. T or F
False
*What is the source of hormones?
The endocrine gland carried by the blood stream
*What are the properties of ceramides?
- Repair the corneum layer in cases of dry skin
- Improve skin hydration
- Increase the feeling of softness
*What does coenzyme Q10 help the body fight?
- Damages induced by free radicals
*Define humectants and give 2 examples.
- Water-binding agents that are hydrophilic or water loving
Ex. - Glycerin
- Hyaluronic acid
*What are 2 sources of camphor?
- Camphor tree
- Turpentine
*What are 8 contraindications to electricity?
- Pregnancy
- Pace makers
- Metal implants
- Braces
- Cancer
- Diabetes
- Heart disease
- Epilepsy
*What does LED stand for?
Light emitting diode
What is the unit of measurement used in electrical therapy for facial treatment?
A milliampere
*Define AC
AC - alternating, smooth repetitive current produced by mechanical means and changes direction 60 times per second
*Define DC
DC - constant even flowing current that travels in one direction only and is produced by chemical means
*What is the pH effect of the negative pole?
Causes an alkaline reaction
*What are the effects of the positive pole in the galvanic:
- Causes an acidic reaction
- Tightens the skin
- Calms and soothes nerve endings
*What are the benefits of the red LED light?
Red Light
- Increases cellular processes
- Boosts collagen & elastin
- Stimulates wound healing
*What are the benefits of the blue LED light?
Blue Light
- Improves acne
- Reduces bacteria
- Used with medications for precancerous lesions
*What are the benefits of the green LED light?
Green Light
- Lessens hyperpigmentation
- Reduces redness
- Calms and soothes
- Reduces the production of melanin, fading spots overtime
*What are 6 properties of the microcurrent?
- Improves blood & lymph circulation
- Produces acidic & alkaline reactions
- Opens & closes hair follicles & pores
- Increases muscle tone
- Restores elasticity
- Reduces redness & inflammation
*What are 5 properties of the High Frequency?
- Has an antiseptic & healing effect on the skin
- Stimulates circulation
- Helps oxygenate the skin
- Increases cell metabolism
- Generates a warm & relaxing feeling
*What is a conductor & give 3 examples:
Any material that conducts electricity
- Silver
- gold,
- tap water
- lake water
*What is non-conductors & give 3 examples:
A material that does not transmit electricity
- Rubber
- wood
- glass
- cement
*Describe polarity, what 2 facial machines have polarity?
Refers to the poles off an electric current, either positive or negative.
Galvanic
Micro current
*Explain the indirect use of High Frequency:
- Used indirectly to stimulate skin during massage
- Ideal for shallow, aging skin
*Describe a fuse:
- Prevents excessive current from passing through a circuit
- Designed to blow out or melt when the wire becomes too hot from overloading the circuit with too much current
*Describe a circuit breaker:
A switch that automatically interrupts or shuts off an electric circuit at the first indication of an overload
List 5 guidelines for the safe use of electrical equipment:
- Disconnect all electrical appliances prior to cleaning them
- Use only one plug in each outlet, overloading may cause the circuit breaker to pop
- Inspect all electrical equipment regularly
- Keep electrical cords off the floor & away from peoples feet
- Don’t leave a client unattended while connected to an electrical device
*Define the meaning of the word Aromatherapy:
The art and science of using essential plant oils in treatments.
*Essential oils and 3 properties for each:
Basil - anxiety, depression, fatigue
Grapefruit - fatigue, acne, overweight
Lavender - anxiety, depression, headaches
Mandarin - anxiety, depression, calming
Marjoram - insomnia, headache, antiseptic
Patchouli - grounding, acne, anti fungal
Roman chamomile - anxiety, insomnia, acne
Rosemary - acne, dandruff, depression
Rosewood - sensitive, dry, acne skin
Sandalwood - insomnia, dry, itchy skin
Tea tree - anxiety, acne, anti fungal
Ylang ylang - euphoria, depression, acne
Who is the person responsible for introducing EO into the cosmetic field?
Madame margarite Maury
Who research the healing properties of EO in the medical field?
Maurice Gattefosse
EO are able to stimulate generation of new cells, the word for this property is:
Cytophylactic
*Is using 20mL of carrier oil for a body treatment, how many drops of EO is used?
- 12 drops
- 3 drops of EO to every 5mL
*What are 5 methods of extraction for EO?
- distilled oils
- expression or cold press method
- enfleurage method
- maceration
- solvent extraction method
*What are 5 methods of utilization for EO?
- inhalation
- bath
- massage
- compresses
- oral
- masks or moisturizers
*What are 2 routes EO get into the blood stream?
Through the skin and lungs
What are two ways E.O. Work with the endocrine system?
- First they may stimulate certain glands, and normalize hormonal secretions
- Secondly, they are loaded with plant hormones or phyto-hormones, which have an effect on the skin
Describe the normalizing action of EO:
- whatever the problem, they tend to bring the body back to normal
- they help strengthen the systems working holistically regulating body functions
*How should EO be stored?
- in dark glass bottles
- away from sunlight and all sources of heat
- room temperature
- NOT in the refrigerator
- NOT in plastic containers
*Why should EO not be added to your water bottle?
Oil will not mix with water as you are swallowing your water the essential oil molecules will attach to your mucosa in your mouth, esophagus and stomach.
What is the difference of properties of herbs & properties of essences?
Essence in general have a much more pronounced effect on the mind and emotions than herbal medicine. However essences are 75-100 times more concentrated than herbs.
Ex; one drop of Roman Chamomile is equal to 35 cups of chamomile tea
*Properties of EO:
Antiseptic Antifungal Antibacterial Antiviral Increases circulation Detoxifying Euphoric Reduce stress Rejuvenating Oxygenates
What are the 3 factors that affect the physical value of an aromatherapy treatment?
- The purity & quality of the essential oil used
- The type of base/ carrier oil used
- The formulation-percentage of dilution used
Explain The difference between Otto oils and absolute oils:
Similar in scent but Otto oils are more therapeutic
Absolute oils involve a solvent extraction method, while Otto oils involve a enfleurage method
*Give 4 examples of ways in which the purity and quality of EO may be affected:
- the amount of raw material required (high cost)
- methods of cultivating
- harvest time
- if pesticides, herbicides, fungicides are used
*Labelling of EO’s:
- Organically grown (grown in pesticide free soil)
- Wild grown (grown in natural habitat)
- 100% pure (not recycled, bleached or coloured)
- 100% natural (no synthetic substances)
*Aftercare for an aromatherapy treatment:
- drink plenty of water (6-8 cups)
- avoid alcohol (24h)
- avoid any forms of heat (saunas, whirlpools) for atleast 6/h
- avoid UV exposure (many E.O. are photosensitive)
*What explanation do you give your client for asking such personal questions?
“I need to take a medical chart because I work with ‘therapeutically active’ products and ‘electrical therapy’.
-This allows me to give you a proper treatment and ensures that i use the appropriate products that will suit you best.”
What precautions do you take with a client who has allergies?
- Mark the allergy on your chart in red listing products you must avoid containing the allergen
- Double check ingredients each time before starting treatment if client is anaphylactic
What are the contraindications to high blood pressure?
- Skin may show redness due to circulation or medication flushing
- If uncontrolled, the use of electrical therapy cannot be used
*What are the contraindications to cancer?
- Avoid essential oils if the cancer is active, it can stimulate the cells
- Check their medications
- If the client is currently undergoing treatments of radiation or chemotherapy, state no electrical therapy, no UV, laser, IPL or essential oils
Can cholesterol deposits be extracted?
No
What are the different ways the skin may demonstrate poor circulation?
-Skin may be either pale or have erythrosis
-Extreme dehydration or edema
Cold hand or feet
*If a client had a metal pin in their knee can you still do indirect electricity?
Indirect: not at all
Direct: you can just avoid the area
What are the precautions or contraindications to neck trauma?
- No pressure around the neck (or a certain area) if whiplash or trauma
- Support the neck and use light massage on the area
- If it due to stress, use strong massage and relaxing essential oils
List the precautions and contraindications with a hyper nervous client:
- Be attentive
- Talk through every step with your client
- No electrical therapy, if the client is not relaxed
- Provide a very relaxed atmosphere
- Sit up client during mask
- If claustrophobic, do not use steam or sprays, eye pads, etc.
What are the precautions or contraindications to severe respiratory problems?
- Cautions with (steamer and sprays), or use it at a greater distance
- Other clients may feel suffocated/claustrophobic by the steam
- Be aware of the asthmatic client’s triggers
- Caution with oils and fragrances - a very sensitive or highly asthmatic client may need to be in a separated room
- Keep head elevated if difficulty breathing
*What are the contraindications to someone taking medication that is photosensitive or has an allergy to the sun?
Avoid UV lights, IPL, and laser
What are the contraindications and symptoms to hyperthyroid disease?
- No electrical therapy if hyperthyroid, uncontrolled
- No massage around the neck
- Hyperthyroidism may cause weight loss and nervousness
Dehydration of skin
Hair loss
Weight gain
What are the contraindications to diabetes?
- no hair removal
- no electricity
- no clipping of cuticles
- no paraffin
*What are 4 contraindications or precautions for pregnancy?
- No electrical therapy
- Do not place client directly on her back
- Caution with essential oils
- Make client comfortable with pillows
*What are 4 contraindications or precautions for heart disease?
- Keep warm due to poor circulation
- Check all medications
- Prone to high blood pressure
- Keep clients head elevated if shortness of breath
*What may we notice on a client that is using BCP?
- Chloasma, acne
- Excessive hair growth
- Water retention
*What are 4 contraindications to epilepsy?
- No electrical therapy
- No laser
- No LED
- No IPL
*What are the precautions or contraindications to upper & lower back injury?
- Avoid the area injured
- Make comfy with pillows under knees
- Position head for comfort
- Check for medications
- DONT do deep tissue massage
*Estheticians use the woods lamp to diagnose skin disorders? T or F
False, only the medical field uses it to diagnose
*List the properties of the steamer without ozone.
- Softens pores making extractions more comfortable
- Breaks down or softens grime, makeup & oils by penetrating follicle
- Superficial lines are smoothed by temporary softening
- Increases circulation & metabolism
- Softens dead skin cells making easier exfoliation
- Toxins eliminated through perspiration
*List 10 contraindications of the steamer.
- Respiratory problems
- Claustrophobia
- Uncontrolled high blood pressure
- Asthma
- Fever
- Vascular conditions: couperose, erythema, erythrosis or rosacea
- Skin irritations: eczema, psoriasis
- Dehydration
- Hypersensitive skin
- Sunburn
*List the properties of the steamer with ozone.
- Sedates sebaceous glands (thus normalizing P.H.)
- Anti-bacterial
- Rejuvenates as a result of oxygen being produced
- Speeds up metabolism
- Promotes healing
- Is extremely beneficial to acneic skin, clogged, blemished skin & mature skins due to the added oxygen
What is another name for plant distilled waters?
Hydrolytes
*List 4 contraindications of steam towels.
- Extremely fragile or sensitive skin
- Uncontrolled or advanced rosacea
- Open wounds
- Sunburn
*List the distance and times for the steamer.
Normal skin, 15-18 inches, 10-15 minutes
Oily/acne skin, 12-15 inches, 15-25 minutes
Mature skin, 18-20 inches, 3-6 minutes
*List 5 indications of the microdermabrasion.
- Scaring
- Wrinkles
- Hyperpigmentation
- Fine lines
- Dehydration
*List homecare and advice to give a client after microdermabrasion.
- Clients should discontinue use of retinol -A, AHA and acne topical for one week prior. - Resume 3 weeks after treatment
- Avoid microdermabrasion before intense sun exposure (tailing, skiing, sun bathing)
- Avoid swimming in chlorinated pool the day of microdermabrasion
- Always apply 30 SPF
- Erythema is normal and may reoccur for 48hrs after treatment, apply cool compresses if necessary
- Skin may feel similar to a mild sunburn
What is the magnifying lamp used for?
- for magnifying during skin analysis and extractions
- adds additional lighting
What do esthetician’s use the woods lamp for?
- For analysis
- show different conditions of deeper layers
What are the precautions of the woods lamp?
- eye pads to protect eyes
- bulb gets warm - avoid touching it
*When using any machine on a client what must you do?
- explain treatment to client
- benefits
*How often do you clean a steamer and what is used?
- Clean monthly with vinegar and distilled water
- 1/2 water, 1/2 vinegar, run for 5 min, rinse with water again
State 5 points of application (precautions) when using the steamer:
- turn on 10 min prior to heat water
- never turn steam on clients face
- use at appropriate distance for skin type
- use distilled water if hard water
- clean monthly with vinegar and distilled water
*List 3 precautions to the towel warmer:
- always test towel/ product in wrist then clients shoulder before use
- use heat resistant dishes to warm products
- remove gloves or wash hands before touching the towel warmer door
*When do you turn on your steamer?
10 min prior to heat water
*List 8 contraindications to the use of microdermabrasion:
Open lesions Psoriasis Hypersensitive skin Dermatitis Herpes simplex Eczema Grade 3/4 acne Accutane
*What is the purpose of the UV lamp in the hot towel cabinet?
To prevent bacterial growth
*When staring microdermabrasion the skin should be ___ to prevent clogging of the corundum crystals.
Dry
*What is the frequency of intervals you would book your client for microdermabrasion on neck and original bone?
Intensity at 20 and only one pass
