✅COASTS 3.1.3.2 - Systems and Processes Flashcards
What are some of the sources of energy in the coastal system?
Wind- blows sediment, makes waves
Waves, Currents, Tides
Rivers
Cliff erosion- especially in areas w/ unconsolidated rock
Calving glaciers
How does the wind provide energy?
Strong winds move across the water surface, creating frictional drag. This creates orbital motion of water particles in waves.
As seabed gets shallower,orbit becomes more elliptical, higher waves, lower length and velocity, causing wave to break
Longer the fetch (distance wind blows) more powerful waves are. So waves are most powerful in storms
Winds with large fetches can transfer more energy
How longshore drift transports sediment?
sediment moves along beach due to prevailing winds,
backwash pushes it back into waves which continue to carry it in direction of prevailing wind, and so on
Can make spits and bars when coastline changes direction
How do waves provide energy?
Waves have powerful errosive energy, can destroy features
Moves sediment around, creates as well as destroys
How do currents provide energy?
Can move sediment on the sea floor
More material on and off coastline regularly, great force
What are rip currents?
Powerful underwater currents close to shore when plunging waves cause a build up of water at the top of the beach. Backwash forced under surface due to resistance of the breaking waves. Makes current. Gap in sandbar can make them faster.
In Holderness coast, rip currents hasten erosion
What are upwelling currents
Movement of cold water from deep in ocean towards the surface due to convection currents. The dense cold water replaces the warmer surface water creating currents. Vital part of global circulation pattern.
How do tides provide energy?
Moves sediment up the beach and down again, carries material
Dictates where waves can get to, location of the energy
What are tides?
Periodic rise and fall of the sea level due to gravitational pull from sun & moon. Goes from high to low twice a day.
What is spring tide?
Biggest tidal range. When sun and earth are in alignment.
What is neap tide?
Smallest tidal range. When sun and moon are at 90 degrees.
How does the sun provide energy?
It causes differences in air pressure due to different rates of heating, when then creates wind
How is wind energy formed?
By air moving between areas of different pressure
How are powerful winds created?
The greater the difference in air pressure gradient, the faster the wind speed and the more powerful
What are the factors impacting the size of waves?
Strength of the wind
The fetch
Duration of the wind
What are some terrestrial features affecting the coastal system?
Tectonics
Sediment supply
Sub aerial processes
Fluvial processes
What are some marine features affecting the coastal system?
Wave shape/size
Fetch
Wave direction
Tides
Sea level change
What are some human features affecting the coastal system?
Development
Sea defences
Tourism and recreation
Pollution
Global Warming
Conservation
What are some atmospheric features affecting the coastal system?
Winds
Temperature
Precipitation
Solar energy
Glaciation
How are waves formed?
By energy passing through the water, causing it to move in a circular motion
What do waves transmit?
Energy, not water
What are wind driven waves caused by?
Frictional drag between the wind and the surface water
How do waves change as they approach the shore?
Disturbance to the circular motion beneath the surface leads to a more horizontal movement and the wave breaks
What are the features of constructive waves?
Add material to coastline
Low wave height with long wavelength
Strong swash
Common on gently sloped beaches
What are the features of destructive waves?
Tall in relation to length
Remove material from coastline
Common in winter
Strong backwash
Never reach the backshore
Causes cliff face erosion
Common on steep beaches
What are orthogonals?
Lines of wave energy
What are high energy coastlines like?
Rocky, ocean facing coasts where waves are powerful
What types of landforms tend to be on high energy coasts?
Wave cut platforms and headlands, (erosional land forms)
What are low energy coastlines like?
Sandy, estuarine and where waves are less powerful as the coast is sheltered (deposition)
How do rates of deposition and erosion compare at high energy stretches of coast?
Rate of erosion exceeds rate of deposition