Chapter 8 - Textiles Flashcards
Textiles, trims, findings and material forecasting is the process of:
- Collecting
- Editing
- Interpreting
- Analyzing information
- Predicting upcoming textile story
Scoby
“symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast” is an ingredient used in the fermentation and production of kombucha
Textile
flexible fabric made from natural or manufactured films, fibers or yarns, woven, knitted or assembled of layers
Trim
used to embellish product
- Lace
- Ribbons
- Beads
- Feathers
Findings
add performance qualities to a product or used decoratively
- Zippers
- Elastic
- Velcro
- Thread
Material
the substance of which an item or thing is made
Five stages of textile production:
- Stage 1: Fiber -
- Stage 2: Yarn -
- Stage 3: Fabric structure -
- Stage 4: color pattern and organization -
- Stage 5: finishes -
Fiber
hairlike substance, basic building block for most yarns and fabric
Two types of fibers:
1) Natural
2) Manufactured
Natural fibers
come from plants (cellulosic) or animal (protein) sources
Examples of Natural fibers
- Cotton – most widely used natural fiber
- From the cotton plant
- Staple fiber
- Absorbs moisture and dries quickly - Flax – from the stems of the flax plant
- Longer and stronger than cotton
- Slubs – thick and thin yarns that create unevenness in the fabric
- Tends to wrinkle
- Used to make linen fabric - Wool – protein fiber that comes from the hair of an animal (mostly sheep)
- Positives: warmth, ability to resist moisture, elastic like flexibility
- Negatives: scratchiness, tendency to shrink, susceptibility to damage by months
- Other specifically protein fibers: alpaca, camel hair, cashmere, llama, angora, vicuna - Silk – protein fiber from silkworm cocoon
- Filament fibers – detangled fiber from the cocoon
Manufactered fibers examples
- Polyester – most widely used (made out of crude oil and petroleum)
- Affordable, easy care requirements, can be modified to meet customers’ needs - Nylon – first manufactured fiber produced in the US (1939)
- Strong for its weight, good abrasion resistance and elasticity - Acrylic – often id a substitute for wool
- Less expensive than wool, easier care requirments, pills from abrasion - Spandex – elastic qualities similar to rubber
- Rayon – manufactured cellulosic fiber
- Made from chemically processed wood pulp then extruded through the spinneret, same characteristics as cotton: comfortable to wear, takes color well, wrinkles and stretches out of shape easily - Acetate – manufactured cellulosic fiber
- Lustrous, smooth and lightweight, shrinks, poor elasticity, and is not colorfast - Glass – commonly known as fiberglass
- Molded or cast into shapes
Yarns
created by spinning and twisting fibers together to create long, continuous strands
- Type and length of fiber produces different varieties of yarns
- Twisted lightly = smooth, silky, yarns
- Spun loosely or crimped = textured or bulkier yarns
Fabric structure
method in which textiles are constructed
- Construction differences makes different qualities
- Drape
- Stability
- Density
Categories of fabric structures:
- Woven fabrics – created by weaving interlacing yarns at right angels
- Knit fabrics – interloping yarns using needles to create fabric
- Nonwoven fabrics – fibers held together by bonding, tangling, felting, creating films, or fusing
Woven fabric
created by weaving interlacing yarns at right angels
- Loom – device used for weaving fabrics
- Warp – vertical yarns
- Weft – horizontal yarns
Characteristics of woven fabrics:
- Stretch on the bias
- Fray on the edges
- Yarn cross at 90 degrees angels
Types of basic weaves:
- Plain weave
- Twill weave
- Satin Weave
Types of fancy weaves:
- Dobby weaves
- Jacquard weaves and tapestries
Fabric knits
interloping yarns using needles to create fabric
Types of knit fabrics:
- Weft knits – hand or machine produced
- Knit stiches
- Purl stitches - Warp knits – made by machines: loops appear long the length of a fabric
- Tricot knits
- Raschel knits – many laces are in this category
Unwoven fabrics
fibers held together by bonding, tangling, felting, creating films, or fusing
- Laminated vinyl
- Tufted fabrics
- Crochet
- Macrame
- Quilting
Color
applied, retained or removed from fibers, yarns, fabric, or garments at any stage of the textile development process
Color ways
assortment colors or pattern color combinations
Printing
method of applying color and motif to a surface
- Monotone – one color
- Multicolored – many colors
Types of printing:
- Application / direct printing
- Discharge printing
- Resist printing (tie dying, batik)
- Digital printing
Yarn dying
weaving colored yarns
- Creates a pattern
- Plaid
- Stripe
Dyeing
adds colors
Bleaching
removes color
Other methods of creating pattern:
Flock printing
Burn out printing
Embroidery
Flock printing
uses an adhesive to create the motif, short fibers are attached to create a velvety surface
Burn out printing
a chemical destroying fibers, creating a semitransparent design
Embroidery
decorate a fabric by stitching yarns, stones or sequins into a design on top of fabric
Finishes
any chemical or mechanical process that a fabric undergoes to alter its inherent properties
Preparatory finishes
applied to fabrics so that they can be further processed
Functional finishes
change the performance properties of a fabric
Aesthetic finishes
change the appearance of hand of a fabric
Sustainable fibers
have been introduced considering their environmental and social impact throughout the products total life span, such as:
- Organic cotton
- Hemp
- Bamboo
- Eucalyptus
- Pineapple
- Soy
- Seaweed
Sustainable textiles
decrease the negative environmental impact from the production of textiles
- Renewable resources
- Resource conservation
- Energy saving methods
- Using non-hazardous material and manufacturing techniques
- Recycling and upcycling
- Closed loop system
Performance textiles
- Moisture transport
- Temperature sensitive textiles
- Protection against win, precipitation or sun
Technical and industrial textiles
- Fiber optic fabric
- Spider silk fibers
Smart textiles
- Textiles with nanotechnology
- Electro textiles
- Stretchable electronic inks
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How to develop a textile and materials forecast
Step 1: formulate textiles and materials ideas
- Research, also consider trims, findings, embellishments and materials
- Latest developments are presented at trade shows and fabric fairs
- Runway shows, textiles indicate future of textiles
- Research in: • Retail fabric store • Vintage / used clothing stores • Nature • Hardware store • Supermarket
Step 2: Collect Fabrics and Materials
- Collect textiles or material of interest
- Materials (non textiles) can also be inspiration
Step 3: Edit, Interpret, Analyze, and Predict the textiles and Materials story
- Organize and categorize collected fabric materials, and trims
- Group related items together and replication becomes apparent
- Similarities in look, color and pattern start show trends
- Interpret and analyze fabrications to understand why some have more potential
- Predict using textiles and materials to convey concept of the theme
Step 4: Identify Fabric and materials
- Convey the story through vivid descriptions and accurate information about the materials
- Use textile terminology and vocabulary
- Describe details of the materials (Fiber, yarns, fabric structure, color, finishes)
- Describe the aesthetic quantities of the materials (look, feel and texture)
Swatches
collect samples pieces of fabric and materials
Swatch cards, types or head ends
types of displays for available and development fabrics
