Chapter 8 - Textiles Flashcards

1
Q

Textiles, trims, findings and material forecasting is the process of:

A
  • Collecting
  • Editing
  • Interpreting
  • Analyzing information
  • Predicting upcoming textile story
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2
Q

Scoby

A

“symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast” is an ingredient used in the fermentation and production of kombucha

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3
Q

Textile

A

flexible fabric made from natural or manufactured films, fibers or yarns, woven, knitted or assembled of layers

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4
Q

Trim

A

used to embellish product

  • Lace
  • Ribbons
  • Beads
  • Feathers
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5
Q

Findings

A

add performance qualities to a product or used decoratively

  • Zippers
  • Elastic
  • Velcro
  • Thread
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6
Q

Material

A

the substance of which an item or thing is made

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7
Q

Five stages of textile production:

A
  • Stage 1: Fiber -
  • Stage 2: Yarn -
  • Stage 3: Fabric structure -
  • Stage 4: color pattern and organization -
  • Stage 5: finishes -
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8
Q

Fiber

A

hairlike substance, basic building block for most yarns and fabric

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9
Q

Two types of fibers:

A

1) Natural

2) Manufactured

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10
Q

Natural fibers

A

come from plants (cellulosic) or animal (protein) sources

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11
Q

Examples of Natural fibers

A
  1. Cotton – most widely used natural fiber
    - From the cotton plant
    - Staple fiber
    - Absorbs moisture and dries quickly
  2. Flax – from the stems of the flax plant
    - Longer and stronger than cotton
    - Slubs – thick and thin yarns that create unevenness in the fabric
    - Tends to wrinkle
    - Used to make linen fabric
  3. Wool – protein fiber that comes from the hair of an animal (mostly sheep)
    - Positives: warmth, ability to resist moisture, elastic like flexibility
    - Negatives: scratchiness, tendency to shrink, susceptibility to damage by months
    - Other specifically protein fibers: alpaca, camel hair, cashmere, llama, angora, vicuna
  4. Silk – protein fiber from silkworm cocoon
    - Filament fibers – detangled fiber from the cocoon
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12
Q

Manufactered fibers examples

A
  1. Polyester – most widely used (made out of crude oil and petroleum)
    - Affordable, easy care requirements, can be modified to meet customers’ needs
  2. Nylon – first manufactured fiber produced in the US (1939)
    - Strong for its weight, good abrasion resistance and elasticity
  3. Acrylic – often id a substitute for wool
    - Less expensive than wool, easier care requirments, pills from abrasion
  4. Spandex – elastic qualities similar to rubber
  5. Rayon – manufactured cellulosic fiber
    - Made from chemically processed wood pulp then extruded through the spinneret, same characteristics as cotton: comfortable to wear, takes color well, wrinkles and stretches out of shape easily
  6. Acetate – manufactured cellulosic fiber
    - Lustrous, smooth and lightweight, shrinks, poor elasticity, and is not colorfast
  7. Glass – commonly known as fiberglass
    - Molded or cast into shapes
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13
Q

Yarns

A

created by spinning and twisting fibers together to create long, continuous strands

  • Type and length of fiber produces different varieties of yarns
  • Twisted lightly = smooth, silky, yarns
  • Spun loosely or crimped = textured or bulkier yarns
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14
Q

Fabric structure

A

method in which textiles are constructed

  • Construction differences makes different qualities
  • Drape
  • Stability
  • Density
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15
Q

Categories of fabric structures:

A
  1. Woven fabrics – created by weaving interlacing yarns at right angels
  2. Knit fabrics – interloping yarns using needles to create fabric
  3. Nonwoven fabrics – fibers held together by bonding, tangling, felting, creating films, or fusing
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16
Q

Woven fabric

A

created by weaving interlacing yarns at right angels

  • Loom – device used for weaving fabrics
  • Warp – vertical yarns
  • Weft – horizontal yarns
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17
Q

Characteristics of woven fabrics:

A
  • Stretch on the bias
  • Fray on the edges
  • Yarn cross at 90 degrees angels
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18
Q

Types of basic weaves:

A
  1. Plain weave
  2. Twill weave
  3. Satin Weave
19
Q

Types of fancy weaves:

A
  • Dobby weaves

- Jacquard weaves and tapestries

20
Q

Fabric knits

A

interloping yarns using needles to create fabric

21
Q

Types of knit fabrics:

A
  1. Weft knits – hand or machine produced
    - Knit stiches
    - Purl stitches
  2. Warp knits – made by machines: loops appear long the length of a fabric
    - Tricot knits
    - Raschel knits – many laces are in this category
22
Q

Unwoven fabrics

A

fibers held together by bonding, tangling, felting, creating films, or fusing

  • Laminated vinyl
  • Tufted fabrics
  • Crochet
  • Macrame
  • Quilting
23
Q

Color

A

applied, retained or removed from fibers, yarns, fabric, or garments at any stage of the textile development process

24
Q

Color ways

A

assortment colors or pattern color combinations

25
Q

Printing

A

method of applying color and motif to a surface

  • Monotone – one color
  • Multicolored – many colors
26
Q

Types of printing:

A
  • Application / direct printing
  • Discharge printing
  • Resist printing (tie dying, batik)
  • Digital printing
27
Q

Yarn dying

A

weaving colored yarns

  • Creates a pattern
  • Plaid
  • Stripe
28
Q

Dyeing

A

adds colors

29
Q

Bleaching

A

removes color

30
Q

Other methods of creating pattern:

A

Flock printing
Burn out printing
Embroidery

31
Q

Flock printing

A

uses an adhesive to create the motif, short fibers are attached to create a velvety surface

32
Q

Burn out printing

A

a chemical destroying fibers, creating a semitransparent design

33
Q

Embroidery

A

decorate a fabric by stitching yarns, stones or sequins into a design on top of fabric

34
Q

Finishes

A

any chemical or mechanical process that a fabric undergoes to alter its inherent properties

35
Q

Preparatory finishes

A

applied to fabrics so that they can be further processed

36
Q

Functional finishes

A

change the performance properties of a fabric

37
Q

Aesthetic finishes

A

change the appearance of hand of a fabric

38
Q

Sustainable fibers

A

have been introduced considering their environmental and social impact throughout the products total life span, such as:

  • Organic cotton
  • Hemp
  • Bamboo
  • Eucalyptus
  • Pineapple
  • Soy
  • Seaweed
39
Q

Sustainable textiles

A

decrease the negative environmental impact from the production of textiles

  • Renewable resources
  • Resource conservation
  • Energy saving methods
  • Using non-hazardous material and manufacturing techniques
  • Recycling and upcycling
  • Closed loop system
40
Q

 Performance textiles

  • Moisture transport
  • Temperature sensitive textiles
  • Protection against win, precipitation or sun

 Technical and industrial textiles

  • Fiber optic fabric
  • Spider silk fibers

 Smart textiles

  • Textiles with nanotechnology
  • Electro textiles
  • Stretchable electronic inks
A

-

41
Q

How to develop a textile and materials forecast

A

Step 1: formulate textiles and materials ideas

  • Research, also consider trims, findings, embellishments and materials
  • Latest developments are presented at trade shows and fabric fairs
  • Runway shows, textiles indicate future of textiles
-	Research in: 
•	Retail fabric store 
•	Vintage / used clothing stores 
•	Nature 
•	Hardware store 
•	Supermarket 

Step 2: Collect Fabrics and Materials

  • Collect textiles or material of interest
  • Materials (non textiles) can also be inspiration

Step 3: Edit, Interpret, Analyze, and Predict the textiles and Materials story

  • Organize and categorize collected fabric materials, and trims
  • Group related items together and replication becomes apparent
  • Similarities in look, color and pattern start show trends
  • Interpret and analyze fabrications to understand why some have more potential
  • Predict using textiles and materials to convey concept of the theme

Step 4: Identify Fabric and materials

  • Convey the story through vivid descriptions and accurate information about the materials
  • Use textile terminology and vocabulary
  • Describe details of the materials (Fiber, yarns, fabric structure, color, finishes)
  • Describe the aesthetic quantities of the materials (look, feel and texture)
42
Q

Swatches

A

collect samples pieces of fabric and materials

43
Q

Swatch cards, types or head ends

A

types of displays for available and development fabrics