Chapter 21- Haircoloring Flashcards
Clients who have their hair colored usually visit the salon every ____ to ___ weeks
3
12
the structure of the clients hair and the desired results determines what
which hair color to use
middle layer of the hair that gives the hair majority if it’s strength and elasticity. When healthy, it contributes about 80 % to the overall strength of the hair. It contains the natural pigment called melanin that determines the hair color.
cortex
Melanin granules are scattered between the ________ cells like chips in a chocolate chip cookie
cortex
hair texture is the diameter of
an individual hair strand
melanin granules in fine are are grouped more ____ so the hair takes color _____ and can look ______
tightly
faster
darker
_________ textures hair has a larger diameter and _______ grouped melanin granules, so it can take _______ to process
coarse
loosely
longer
hair’s ability to absorb moisture
porosity
the cuticle is tight, the hair is resistant. longer processing time
low porosity
slightly raised cuticle, hair is normal and processes in an average amount of time
average porosity
lifted cuticle, hair is overly porous and takes color quickly, color also tends to fade quickly
high porosity
take several strand of hair from 4 different places on the head, front hairline, crown, temple and nape.
hold the strands secure with one and _______ the thumb and forefinger of the other hand from the ______ to the _______
slide
end
scalp
melanin that lends black and brown color to hair
eumelanin
melanin that gives blond and red colors to hair
pheomelanin
also known as undertone, is the varying degrees of warmth exposed during a permanent color or lightening process
contributing pigment
unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color
level
a system that hair colorist used to determine the lightness or darkness of a hair color.
level system
hair color levels are arranged on a scale is __ to ____ with ____ begins the darkest and ___ begins the lightest
1
10
1
10
the first step in preforming a hair color service.
identifying natural level
most valuable tool
the color wheel
____ is described as a property of objects that depends on the light that they reflect and is perceived as ____,_______,______, or other shades
color
red
yellow
blue
system for understanding color relationships
law of color
pure or fundamental colors
primary colors
colors with a predominance of blue are __________ whereas colors with a predominance of red and yellow are ______
cool
warm
in addition to coolness, blue can also bring _____ or _________ to any color
depth
darkness
when equal parts of the primary colors are mixed what is the end color
black/ muddy gray
color obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors
secondary
intermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary colors together with its neighboring primary color in equal amounts
tertiary
primary and secondary colors positioned directly opposite each other on the color wheel
complementary colors
also known as hue, is the balance of color
tone
tones can be described as _______,_______,&______.
warm
cool
neutral
becasue warmed tones reflect more light, the can look ______ than their actual level
lighter
_____ tones absorbs more light, therefore they can look _____ than their actual level
Cool
deeper
refers the the strength of a color
intensity
predominate time of a color
basecolor
each color is identify buy a _____ & a ________. the ______ indicates the level and the _____ indicates the tone
number
letter
number
level
neutral base colors are often used to
cover gray hair
non-oxidation colors that make only a physical change, not a chemical change, in the hair shaft and no patch test is required. Because this nonperminate color hair large pigments molecules that do not penetrate the cuticle lager, only a coating of color is depositors which may be removed by shampooing
temporary haircolors
a no-lift, deposit only, non-oxidation hair color that is not mixed with peroxide and is formulated to last through several shampoos, depending on the hair’s porosity
semipermanent
no lift, deposit only, formulated to deposit only but not lightness
demiperminate
lighten and deposit color at the same time and in single a process because they are more alkaline than demipermeniate colors and are usually mixed with a higher-columns developer
permanent hair color
permanent hair color is used to
match,lighten and cover gray hair
___________ contain small uncolored dyes that combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger permanent dye molecules within the cortex
aniline derivatives
also referred to as gradual colors
metallic haircolors
also known as vegetable haircolors, such as henna, are colors obtained from the leaves or bark of plants
natural haircolors
also known as progressive haircolors, are HC containing metal salts that change hair color gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air, creating a flu, metallic appearance
metallic HC
oxidation agent that, when mixed with an oxidation hair-color, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop the color molecules and create a change in natural hair color
hydrogen peroxide developer
measures the concentration and strength of hydrogen peroxide
volume
standard volume: will give up to two levels of lift; is used to achieved most results with permanent HC and used for compete gray coverage
20 V
chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing dissolving and decolorizing the natural hair pigment
lighteners
this is known as oxidation, a process by which oxygen is released and it occurs within the cortex of the hair shaft. To achieve a very light pale blonde, it is recommend that you use a ______________ application two separate procedures in which the hair is pre-lightened before the depositing colornis applied
double process
during the process of decolorizing natural hair can go through as many as ____ stages
10
decolorizing the hair’s natural melanin pigment allows the colorist to create the exact degree of _________ needed for the final result
contributing pigment
traditional semipermanent, demipermanent and permanent HC products thag are used primarily on ore-lightened hair to achieve and delicate colors
toners
what is the most critical part of the color service
a hair color consultation
used by schools and many salons when providing chemical services. It is used to explain to customers that there is a risk involved in any chemical service and that if the client’s hair is in questionable condition, it may not withstand the requested chemical treatment
release statement
when mixing permanent colors what type of bowl should you use
nonmetallic
to identify an allergy in a client, the U.S. Food , Drug and Cosmetic Act requires that a patch test be given ____ to ___hrs. prior to each application of an aniline haircolor
24
48
lightness and depositors color in a single application
single process hair-coloring
first time hair is colored
virgin application
non-ammonia color that adds shine and tone to the hair
glaze
overlapping can cause breakage and a _____________________, which is the visible line separating colored hair from new growth
line of demarcation
first step of double process hair color, used to lift or lighten the natural pigment before the application of toner
pre-lightening
strong enough for high-lift blonding but gentle enough to be used on the scalp.
cream lighteners
cream lighteners have what benefits
thickeners give more control during application
also known as boosters, protinators, or accelerators are powered persulfate salts added to haircolor to increase its lightening biking
activators
also known as quick lighteners, are powdered lighteners that cannot be used directly on the scalp
off-the-scalp lighteners
part of the hair shaft between the scalp and the hair that has been previously colored
new growth
involves coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add a variety of lighter shades and the illusion of depth
highlighting
also known as low lighting, is the technique of coloring standards of hair darker than the natural color
reverse highlighting
selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with a zipzag motion of the comb and lightener or color is applied only to these strands
weaving
also known as free form technique, involves the painting of lightener directly onto clean, styled hair
baliage (balayage)
the process of treating gray or very resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color
pre-softening
when selecting a test area , what places are best
behind the ear or inside of the elbow
apply color product to new growth aera using _____ inch horizontal subsections
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