Chapter 20- Chemical Texture Services Flashcards
what gives you the ability to permanently change the hair’s natural wave and curl pattern thereby offering clients a variety of styling options that would not otherwise be possible.
Chemical Hair texture services
without a through understanding of chemistry, cosmetologist could ______,___________, and _______ their clients and themselves
damage hair
cause hair loss
harm
though exterior layer of the hair. it surrounds the inner layers and protects the hair from damage
cuticle
middle layer of hair, located directly beneath the cuticle layer. Responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity
cortex
innermost layer of the hair, often called the pith or core of the hair
medulla
what does the symbol pH represent
quantity of hydrogen ions
pH scales measures the ______ and _______ of a substance by measure the quantity of hydrogen ions it contains
acidity
alkalinity
pH scale ranges from ____ to ____
0
14
chemical solutions _____ the pH of the hair to an _________ state
raise
alkaline
coarse, resistant hair with a strong compact cuticle layer requires a __________ ___________ chemical solution
highly alkaline
to understand how a chemical solution changes the structure of the hair, it is important to _______ the basic building blocks of hair
understand
compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen and sulfur
amino acids
also known as end bonds , are chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end to end in long chains, to form a polypeptide chain
peptide bonds
long champions of amino acids joined together by polypeptide chains
polypeptide chains
long, coiled polypeptide chains
keratin proteins
disulfide salt and hydrogen bonds that cross link polypeptide chains together
side bonds
strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together
disulfide bonds
relatively weak physical side bonds that are a result of attraction between negative and positive electrical charges. they are easily broken by changes in pH and they reform when the pH rea turns to normal levels
salt bonds
weak physical side bonds that are also the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; they are easily broke. by water or heat and they re-form as the hair dries or cools
hydrogen bonds
two step process whereby the hair undergoes a physical change cause by wrapping the hair on perm rods; the hair then undergoes a chemical change cause by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer
permanent waving
what determines the size of the curl when performing a permanent waving service
the size of the rod
the shape and type of curl are determines by
the shape and type of rod and the wrapping method used
once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called
reduction
the reduction reaction in permanent waving is due to
the addition of hydrogen
all permanent waving solutions contain a
reducing agent
the reducting agent is commonly referred to as ____, is used in permanent waving solutions
thio
the strength of the dormant waving solution is determines primary by the
concentration of thio
addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid produces a new chemical, which is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing when in alkaline permanents
ammonium thioglycolate
the degree of _____ is a second factor in the overall strength of the waving solutions
alkalinity
also known as cold waves, were developed in 1941. they have a pH between 9.0-9.6. Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG) is the reducing agent and it process at room temp without addition of heat
alkaline waves
the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotion
glyceryl monothioglycloate
all acid waves have 3 separate components
permanent waving solution
activator
neutralizer
pH off most of the acid waves found in today’s salons
7.8-8.2
modern acid waves are actually _______________, which are permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH.
acid-balanced waves
an exothermic chemical reaction produces heat. _______________ create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats the waving solution and speeds up he processing
Exothermic waves
activated by an outside heat source, usually conventional good-type hair dryer
endothermic waves
perks that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as result as ammonia so there is very little odor associated with their use
ammonia-free waves
ammonia free does ____ necessarily mean damage free
not
uses an igredientbofher that ATG, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine as the primary reducing agent
thio-free waves
the use of sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites perfectness an alternative to ATG known as
low-pH waves
are usually marketed as a body wave or alternative waves
sulfite permanents
in permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as a soon as the solution penetrates the _____, within the first ___ to ____ minutes
hair
5
10
if too many disulfide bonds are broken, the hair many ________ the desired curl
not hold
Weak hair =
weak curl
over processed hair normally has a _____ curl or may appear to be straight
weak
stops the action of the waving solution and rebukes the hair into its new curly form
thio neutralization
most common neutralizer concentrations vary between ____ volume and ____ volume
hydrogen peroxide
5
10
most common type of perm rod
concave rod
equal in diameter along their entire length or filing sera
straight rods
usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod
soft bender rods
also known as circle rods, is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod
loop rod
perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed on top of the hair being wrapped
double flat wrap
similar to double flat wrap but only uses one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair
single flap wrap
used one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope
bookend wrap
all perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into
panels
subsections of panels into which the hair is divided for perm wrapping
base sections
refers to the position fb the rod in relation to its base section; base placement is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped
base placement
caution should be used with _____ placement because the additional stress and tension can mark or break the hair
on-base
the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section and the rod is positioned half off its base section
half off base placement
refers to the angle at which the rod is positioned on the head
base direction
two basic techniques of wrapping the hair around the perm rod
croquinole
spiral
wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers
croquignole wrap
wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, like the stripes on a candy cane
spiral wrap
piggly back wrap
double-rod wrap
also known as straight set wrap, is a wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel love in the same direction and are positioned on equal sized bases
basic permanent wrap
partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head
curvature permanent wrap
base sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair
brick-lay permanent wrap
use zigzag partings to divide base areas. it can be used throughout the entire perm wrap or only in selected areas. this technicians is very effective for blending perm rods with opposites base direction
weave technique
what should you do before the perm service.
examine the scalp
do ____ continues with perm service is there are any skin ___________ or signs of scalp disease
not
abrasions
do not attempt to perm hair that
has been previously treated with hydrogen peroxide
metallic salts leave a ________ on thehair that may cause ________,________ or __________
coating
uneven curls
severe discoloration
hair breakage
a process that rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form
chemical hair relaxing
measurement of thickness or thinness of liquid that affects how the fluid flows
viscosity
sometimes called thermal straightener or TR, combines the use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing
Japanese Thermal Striaghtening
active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers
hydroxide ion
not comparable with thio relaxers
hydroxide relaxers
process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair, the relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthinonine bond
ianthioization
all metal hydroxide relxers contain only _____ commoners and are used exactly as they are packaged in the container
one
relaxers are commonly called lye relaxers
sodium hydroxide
often advertised and sold as “no mix-no lye” relaxers
lithium and potassium hydroxide
contains two components that must be mixed immediately prior to use
guanidine hudroxide
do not require the application of a protective barrier cream
no-base relaxers
the difference in strength of hydroxide relaxers parallels the _________ d hydroxide
concentration
of the strand remains smooth, with no vivid leaves curl pattern, it is ___________. If the curl returns, continue processing
sufficiently relaxed
conditioners with an acidic oH that restore the hair’s pH before final neutralizing shampoo
normalizing lotions
how do keratin straightening treatments work
by fixing the kerr’s tin in place in a semipermanent manner
thio-based chemical service that re-forms curly and wavy hair into looser and larger curls and waves
soft curl permanent
begin applications in the ______ resistant area, usually at the back of the head
most
