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UAHD-Stage 1 > Chapter 20- Chemical Texture Services > Flashcards

Chapter 20- Chemical Texture Services Flashcards

1
Q

what gives you the ability to permanently change the hair’s natural wave and curl pattern thereby offering clients a variety of styling options that would not otherwise be possible.

A

Chemical Hair texture services

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2
Q

without a through understanding of chemistry, cosmetologist could ______,___________, and _______ their clients and themselves

A

damage hair
cause hair loss
harm

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3
Q

though exterior layer of the hair. it surrounds the inner layers and protects the hair from damage

A

cuticle

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4
Q

middle layer of hair, located directly beneath the cuticle layer. Responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity

A

cortex

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5
Q

innermost layer of the hair, often called the pith or core of the hair

A

medulla

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6
Q

what does the symbol pH represent

A

quantity of hydrogen ions

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7
Q

pH scales measures the ______ and _______ of a substance by measure the quantity of hydrogen ions it contains

A

acidity

alkalinity

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8
Q

pH scale ranges from ____ to ____

A

0

14

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9
Q

chemical solutions _____ the pH of the hair to an _________ state

A

raise

alkaline

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10
Q

coarse, resistant hair with a strong compact cuticle layer requires a __________ ___________ chemical solution

A

highly alkaline

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11
Q

to understand how a chemical solution changes the structure of the hair, it is important to _______ the basic building blocks of hair

A

understand

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12
Q

compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen and sulfur

A

amino acids

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13
Q

also known as end bonds , are chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end to end in long chains, to form a polypeptide chain

A

peptide bonds

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14
Q

long champions of amino acids joined together by polypeptide chains

A

polypeptide chains

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15
Q

long, coiled polypeptide chains

A

keratin proteins

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16
Q

disulfide salt and hydrogen bonds that cross link polypeptide chains together

A

side bonds

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17
Q

strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together

A

disulfide bonds

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18
Q

relatively weak physical side bonds that are a result of attraction between negative and positive electrical charges. they are easily broken by changes in pH and they reform when the pH rea turns to normal levels

A

salt bonds

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19
Q

weak physical side bonds that are also the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; they are easily broke. by water or heat and they re-form as the hair dries or cools

A

hydrogen bonds

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20
Q

two step process whereby the hair undergoes a physical change cause by wrapping the hair on perm rods; the hair then undergoes a chemical change cause by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer

A

permanent waving

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21
Q

what determines the size of the curl when performing a permanent waving service

A

the size of the rod

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22
Q

the shape and type of curl are determines by

A

the shape and type of rod and the wrapping method used

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23
Q

once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called

A

reduction

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24
Q

the reduction reaction in permanent waving is due to

A

the addition of hydrogen

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25
Q

all permanent waving solutions contain a

A

reducing agent

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26
Q

the reducting agent is commonly referred to as ____, is used in permanent waving solutions

A

thio

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27
Q

the strength of the dormant waving solution is determines primary by the

A

concentration of thio

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28
Q

addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid produces a new chemical, which is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing when in alkaline permanents

A

ammonium thioglycolate

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29
Q

the degree of _____ is a second factor in the overall strength of the waving solutions

A

alkalinity

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30
Q

also known as cold waves, were developed in 1941. they have a pH between 9.0-9.6. Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG) is the reducing agent and it process at room temp without addition of heat

A

alkaline waves

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31
Q

the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotion

A

glyceryl monothioglycloate

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32
Q

all acid waves have 3 separate components

A

permanent waving solution
activator
neutralizer

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33
Q

pH off most of the acid waves found in today’s salons

A

7.8-8.2

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34
Q

modern acid waves are actually _______________, which are permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH.

A

acid-balanced waves

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35
Q

an exothermic chemical reaction produces heat. _______________ create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats the waving solution and speeds up he processing

A

Exothermic waves

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36
Q

activated by an outside heat source, usually conventional good-type hair dryer

A

endothermic waves

37
Q

perks that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as result as ammonia so there is very little odor associated with their use

A

ammonia-free waves

38
Q

ammonia free does ____ necessarily mean damage free

A

not

39
Q

uses an igredientbofher that ATG, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine as the primary reducing agent

A

thio-free waves

40
Q

the use of sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites perfectness an alternative to ATG known as

A

low-pH waves

41
Q

are usually marketed as a body wave or alternative waves

A

sulfite permanents

42
Q

in permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as a soon as the solution penetrates the _____, within the first ___ to ____ minutes

A

hair
5
10

43
Q

if too many disulfide bonds are broken, the hair many ________ the desired curl

A

not hold

44
Q

Weak hair =

A

weak curl

45
Q

over processed hair normally has a _____ curl or may appear to be straight

A

weak

46
Q

stops the action of the waving solution and rebukes the hair into its new curly form

A

thio neutralization

47
Q

most common neutralizer concentrations vary between ____ volume and ____ volume

A

hydrogen peroxide
5
10

48
Q

most common type of perm rod

A

concave rod

49
Q

equal in diameter along their entire length or filing sera

A

straight rods

50
Q

usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod

A

soft bender rods

51
Q

also known as circle rods, is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod

A

loop rod

52
Q

perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed on top of the hair being wrapped

A

double flat wrap

53
Q

similar to double flat wrap but only uses one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair

A

single flap wrap

54
Q

used one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope

A

bookend wrap

55
Q

all perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into

A

panels

56
Q

subsections of panels into which the hair is divided for perm wrapping

A

base sections

57
Q

refers to the position fb the rod in relation to its base section; base placement is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped

A

base placement

58
Q

caution should be used with _____ placement because the additional stress and tension can mark or break the hair

A

on-base

59
Q

the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section and the rod is positioned half off its base section

A

half off base placement

60
Q

refers to the angle at which the rod is positioned on the head

A

base direction

61
Q

two basic techniques of wrapping the hair around the perm rod

A

croquinole

spiral

62
Q

wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers

A

croquignole wrap

63
Q

wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, like the stripes on a candy cane

A

spiral wrap

64
Q

piggly back wrap

A

double-rod wrap

65
Q

also known as straight set wrap, is a wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel love in the same direction and are positioned on equal sized bases

A

basic permanent wrap

66
Q

partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head

A

curvature permanent wrap

67
Q

base sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair

A

brick-lay permanent wrap

68
Q

use zigzag partings to divide base areas. it can be used throughout the entire perm wrap or only in selected areas. this technicians is very effective for blending perm rods with opposites base direction

A

weave technique

69
Q

what should you do before the perm service.

A

examine the scalp

70
Q

do ____ continues with perm service is there are any skin ___________ or signs of scalp disease

A

not

abrasions

71
Q

do not attempt to perm hair that

A

has been previously treated with hydrogen peroxide

72
Q

metallic salts leave a ________ on thehair that may cause ________,________ or __________

A

coating
uneven curls
severe discoloration
hair breakage

73
Q

a process that rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form

A

chemical hair relaxing

74
Q

measurement of thickness or thinness of liquid that affects how the fluid flows

A

viscosity

75
Q

sometimes called thermal straightener or TR, combines the use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing

A

Japanese Thermal Striaghtening

76
Q

active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers

A

hydroxide ion

77
Q

not comparable with thio relaxers

A

hydroxide relaxers

78
Q

process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair, the relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthinonine bond

A

ianthioization

79
Q

all metal hydroxide relxers contain only _____ commoners and are used exactly as they are packaged in the container

A

one

80
Q

relaxers are commonly called lye relaxers

A

sodium hydroxide

81
Q

often advertised and sold as “no mix-no lye” relaxers

A

lithium and potassium hydroxide

82
Q

contains two components that must be mixed immediately prior to use

A

guanidine hudroxide

83
Q

do not require the application of a protective barrier cream

A

no-base relaxers

84
Q

the difference in strength of hydroxide relaxers parallels the _________ d hydroxide

A

concentration

85
Q

of the strand remains smooth, with no vivid leaves curl pattern, it is ___________. If the curl returns, continue processing

A

sufficiently relaxed

86
Q

conditioners with an acidic oH that restore the hair’s pH before final neutralizing shampoo

A

normalizing lotions

87
Q

how do keratin straightening treatments work

A

by fixing the kerr’s tin in place in a semipermanent manner

88
Q

thio-based chemical service that re-forms curly and wavy hair into looser and larger curls and waves

A

soft curl permanent

89
Q

begin applications in the ______ resistant area, usually at the back of the head

A

most

UAHD-Stage 1 (15 decks)

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