Chapter 20- Chemical Texture Services

Question 1

what gives you the ability to permanently change the hair’s natural wave and curl pattern thereby offering clients a variety of styling options that would not otherwise be possible.

Answer 1

Chemical Hair texture services

Question 2

without a through understanding of chemistry, cosmetologist could ______,___________, and _______ their clients and themselves

Answer 2

damage hair
cause hair loss
harm

Question 3

though exterior layer of the hair. it surrounds the inner layers and protects the hair from damage

Answer 3

cuticle

Question 4

middle layer of hair, located directly beneath the cuticle layer. Responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity

Answer 4

cortex

Question 5

innermost layer of the hair, often called the pith or core of the hair

Answer 5

medulla

Question 6

what does the symbol pH represent

Answer 6

quantity of hydrogen ions

Question 7

pH scales measures the ______ and _______ of a substance by measure the quantity of hydrogen ions it contains

Answer 7

acidity

alkalinity

Question 8

pH scale ranges from ____ to ____

Answer 8

0

14

Question 9

chemical solutions _____ the pH of the hair to an _________ state

Answer 9

raise

alkaline

Question 10

coarse, resistant hair with a strong compact cuticle layer requires a __________ ___________ chemical solution

Answer 10

highly alkaline

Question 11

to understand how a chemical solution changes the structure of the hair, it is important to _______ the basic building blocks of hair

Answer 11

understand

Question 12

compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen and sulfur

Answer 12

amino acids

Question 13

also known as end bonds , are chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end to end in long chains, to form a polypeptide chain

Answer 13

peptide bonds

Question 14

long champions of amino acids joined together by polypeptide chains

Answer 14

polypeptide chains

Question 15

long, coiled polypeptide chains

Answer 15

keratin proteins

Question 16

disulfide salt and hydrogen bonds that cross link polypeptide chains together

Answer 16

side bonds

Question 17

strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together

Answer 17

disulfide bonds

Question 18

relatively weak physical side bonds that are a result of attraction between negative and positive electrical charges. they are easily broken by changes in pH and they reform when the pH rea turns to normal levels

Answer 18

salt bonds

Question 19

weak physical side bonds that are also the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; they are easily broke. by water or heat and they re-form as the hair dries or cools

Answer 19

hydrogen bonds

Question 20

two step process whereby the hair undergoes a physical change cause by wrapping the hair on perm rods; the hair then undergoes a chemical change cause by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer

Answer 20

permanent waving

Question 21

what determines the size of the curl when performing a permanent waving service

Answer 21

the size of the rod

Question 22

the shape and type of curl are determines by

Answer 22

the shape and type of rod and the wrapping method used

Question 23

once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called

Answer 23

reduction

Question 24

the reduction reaction in permanent waving is due to

Answer 24

the addition of hydrogen

Question 25

all permanent waving solutions contain a

Answer 25

reducing agent

Question 26

the reducting agent is commonly referred to as ____, is used in permanent waving solutions

Answer 26

thio

Question 27

the strength of the dormant waving solution is determines primary by the

Answer 27

concentration of thio

Question 28

addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid produces a new chemical, which is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing when in alkaline permanents

Answer 28

ammonium thioglycolate

Question 29

the degree of _____ is a second factor in the overall strength of the waving solutions

Answer 29

alkalinity

Question 30

also known as cold waves, were developed in 1941. they have a pH between 9.0-9.6. Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG) is the reducing agent and it process at room temp without addition of heat

Answer 30

alkaline waves

Question 31

the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotion

Answer 31

glyceryl monothioglycloate

Question 32

all acid waves have 3 separate components

Answer 32

permanent waving solution activator neutralizer

Question 33

pH off most of the acid waves found in today’s salons

Answer 33

7.8-8.2

Question 34

modern acid waves are actually _______________, which are permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH.

Answer 34

acid-balanced waves

Question 35

an exothermic chemical reaction produces heat. _______________ create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats the waving solution and speeds up he processing

Answer 35

Exothermic waves

Question 36

activated by an outside heat source, usually conventional good-type hair dryer

Answer 36

endothermic waves

Question 37

perks that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as result as ammonia so there is very little odor associated with their use

Answer 37

ammonia-free waves

Question 38

ammonia free does ____ necessarily mean damage free

Answer 38

not

Question 39

uses an igredientbofher that ATG, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine as the primary reducing agent

Answer 39

thio-free waves

Question 40

the use of sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites perfectness an alternative to ATG known as

Answer 40

low-pH waves

Question 41

are usually marketed as a body wave or alternative waves

Answer 41

sulfite permanents

Question 42

in permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as a soon as the solution penetrates the _____, within the first ___ to ____ minutes

Answer 42

hair 5 10

Question 43

if too many disulfide bonds are broken, the hair many ________ the desired curl

Answer 43

not hold

Question 44

Weak hair =

Answer 44

weak curl

Question 45

over processed hair normally has a _____ curl or may appear to be straight

Answer 45

weak

Question 46

stops the action of the waving solution and rebukes the hair into its new curly form

Answer 46

thio neutralization

Question 47

most common neutralizer concentrations vary between ____ volume and ____ volume

Answer 47

hydrogen peroxide 5 10

Question 48

most common type of perm rod

Answer 48

concave rod

Question 49

equal in diameter along their entire length or filing sera

Answer 49

straight rods

Question 50

usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod

Answer 50

soft bender rods

Question 51

also known as circle rods, is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod

Answer 51

loop rod

Question 52

perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed on top of the hair being wrapped

Answer 52

double flat wrap

Question 53

similar to double flat wrap but only uses one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair

Answer 53

single flap wrap

Question 54

used one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope

Answer 54

bookend wrap

Question 55

all perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into

Answer 55

panels

Question 56

subsections of panels into which the hair is divided for perm wrapping

Answer 56

base sections

Question 57

refers to the position fb the rod in relation to its base section; base placement is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped

Answer 57

base placement

Question 58

caution should be used with _____ placement because the additional stress and tension can mark or break the hair

Answer 58

on-base

Question 59

the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section and the rod is positioned half off its base section

Answer 59

half off base placement

Question 60

refers to the angle at which the rod is positioned on the head

Answer 60

base direction

Question 61

two basic techniques of wrapping the hair around the perm rod

Answer 61

croquinole | spiral

Question 62

wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers

Answer 62

croquignole wrap

Question 63

wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, like the stripes on a candy cane

Answer 63

spiral wrap

Question 64

piggly back wrap

Answer 64

double-rod wrap

Question 65

also known as straight set wrap, is a wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel love in the same direction and are positioned on equal sized bases

Answer 65

basic permanent wrap

Question 66

partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head

Answer 66

curvature permanent wrap

Question 67

base sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair

Answer 67

brick-lay permanent wrap

Question 68

use zigzag partings to divide base areas. it can be used throughout the entire perm wrap or only in selected areas. this technicians is very effective for blending perm rods with opposites base direction

Answer 68

weave technique

Question 69

what should you do before the perm service.

Answer 69

examine the scalp

Question 70

do ____ continues with perm service is there are any skin ___________ or signs of scalp disease

Answer 70

not | abrasions

Question 71

do not attempt to perm hair that

Answer 71

has been previously treated with hydrogen peroxide

Question 72

metallic salts leave a ________ on thehair that may cause ________,________ or __________

Answer 72

coating uneven curls severe discoloration hair breakage

Question 73

a process that rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form

Answer 73

chemical hair relaxing

Question 74

measurement of thickness or thinness of liquid that affects how the fluid flows

Answer 74

viscosity

Question 75

sometimes called thermal straightener or TR, combines the use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing

Answer 75

Japanese Thermal Striaghtening

Question 76

active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers

Answer 76

hydroxide ion

Question 77

not comparable with thio relaxers

Answer 77

hydroxide relaxers

Question 78

process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair, the relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthinonine bond

Answer 78

ianthioization

Question 79

all metal hydroxide relxers contain only _____ commoners and are used exactly as they are packaged in the container

Answer 79

one

Question 80

relaxers are commonly called lye relaxers

Answer 80

sodium hydroxide

Question 81

often advertised and sold as “no mix-no lye” relaxers

Answer 81

lithium and potassium hydroxide

Question 82

contains two components that must be mixed immediately prior to use

Answer 82

guanidine hudroxide

Question 83

do not require the application of a protective barrier cream

Answer 83

no-base relaxers

Question 84

the difference in strength of hydroxide relaxers parallels the _________ d hydroxide

Answer 84

concentration

Question 85

of the strand remains smooth, with no vivid leaves curl pattern, it is ___________. If the curl returns, continue processing

Answer 85

sufficiently relaxed

Question 86

conditioners with an acidic oH that restore the hair’s pH before final neutralizing shampoo

Answer 86

normalizing lotions

Question 87

how do keratin straightening treatments work

Answer 87

by fixing the kerr’s tin in place in a semipermanent manner

Question 88

thio-based chemical service that re-forms curly and wavy hair into looser and larger curls and waves

Answer 88

soft curl permanent

Question 89

begin applications in the ______ resistant area, usually at the back of the head

Answer 89

most