Ch 20 Flashcards by Maria Thompson

_____ give you the ability to permanently change the hair’s natural wave and curl pattern, thereby
offering clients a variety of styling options that would not otherwise be possible.
a. Chemical hair softening
b. Chemical texture services
c. Natural hair services
d. Alternative texture services

b. Chemical texture services

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

Without a thorough understanding of \_\_\_\_\_, cosmetologists could damage hair, cause hair loss, and
harm their clients and themselves. 
a.  chemistry 
b.  immunology 
c.  color theory 
d.  branding

a. chemistry

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

What tough exterior layer of the hair has the purpose of surrounding the inner layers and protecting the
hair from damage? 
a.  Hair shaft 
b.  Cuticle 
c.  Cortex 
d.  Medulla

b. Cuticle

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

Which layer of the hair is located directly beneath the cuticle layer and is responsible for the incredible
strength and elasticity of human hair? 
a.  Hair shaft 
b.  Cuticle 
c.  Cortex 
d.  Medulla

c. Cortex

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

Which layer of hair is the innermost layer of the hair, and often called the pith or core of the hair?

a. Hair shaft
b. Cuticle
c. Cortex
d. Medulla

d. Medulla

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

The term  pH is an abbreviation used for potential \_\_\_\_\_, and the symbol pH represents the quantity of
\_\_\_\_\_ ions in solution. 
a.  hydrogen; hydrogen 
b.  hydrogen; oxygen 
c.  oxygen; oxygen 
d.  oxygen; nitrogen

a. hydrogen; hydrogen

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

The \_\_\_\_\_ measures the acidity and alkalinity of a substance by measuring the quantity of hydrogen
ions it contains. 
a.  oxygen content 
b.  pH scale 
c.  salinity 
d.  radioactivity level

b. pH scale

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

The range of numbers used in the pH scale is _____.

a. 0 to 5
b. 0 to 7
c. 0 to 10
d. 0 to 14

d. 0 to 14

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

Chemical hair texturizers temporarily raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state in order to _____.

a. expand and harden the shaft
b. harden and close the shaft
c. swell and set the shaft
d. soften and swell the shaft

d. soften and swell the shaft

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

In the restructuring process, coarse, resistant hair with a strong compact cuticle requires a chemical
solution that is \_\_\_\_\_. 
a.  slightly alkaline 
b.  mildly acidic 
c.  strongly acidic 
d.  highly alkaline

d. highly alkaline

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

What are the basic building blocks of hair that affect how chemical solutions react?

a. Amino acids, peptide bonds, polypeptide chains, keratin proteins, and square bonds
b. Amino acids, peptide bonds, polypeptide chains, keratin proteins, and hydrogen bonds
c. Amino acids, peptide bonds, polypeptide chains, keratin proteins, and oxygen
d. Amino acids, peptide bonds, polypeptide chains, keratin proteins, and side bonds

d. Amino acids, peptide bonds, polypeptide chains, keratin proteins, and side bonds

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

Which compounds are made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur?

a. Amino acids
b. Peptide bonds
c. Polypeptide chains
d. Keratin proteins

a. Amino acids

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

Which chemical bonds, also known as end bonds, join amino acids together, end-to-end in long chains,
to form a polypeptide chain? 
a.  Amino acids
b.  Peptide bonds 
c.  Polypeptide chains 
d.  Keratin proteins

b. Peptide bonds

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

What are long, coiled polypeptide chains linked together end-to-end like beads?

a. Amino acids
b. Peptide bonds
c. Polypeptide chains
d. Keratin proteins

d. Keratin proteins

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

The cortex of the hair is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross-linked by three types of side
bonds that are responsible for the elasticity and strength of the hair. These bonds are _____.
a. disulfide, trisulfide, and hydrogen
b. disulfide, salt, and hydrogen
c. disulfide, salt, and oxygen
d. disulfide, chlorine, and hydrogen

b. disulfide, salt, and hydrogen

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

What chemical side bonds are formed when two sulfur-type chains are joined together?

a. Disulfide bonds
b. Peptide bonds
c. Keratin bonds
d. Amino acids

a. Disulfide bonds

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

Which bonds are relatively weak physical side bonds resulting from an attraction between negative
and positive electrical charges, and are easily broken by changes in pH?
a. Disulfide bonds
b. Salt bonds
c. Hydrogen bonds
d. Keratin proteins

b. Salt bonds

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

Hydrogen bonds are weak physical side bonds that result from an attraction between negative and
positive electrical charges and are easily broken by water or heat, but reform as the hair is _____.
a. stretched
b. dried
c. softened
d. styled

b. dried

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

_____ is a two-step process in which the hair first undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping
the hair on perm rods, and then a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer.
a. Cascade curling
b. Chemical texture service
c. Permanent waving
d. Temporary waving

c. Permanent waving

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

What determines the size of the curl in a permanent waving process?

a. The size of the rod
b. The length of the hair
c. The texture of the hair
d. The color of the hair

a. The size of the rod

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

In permanent waving, the shape and type of curl are determined by the shape and type of rod and the
\_\_\_\_\_. 
a.  long rods 
b.  hair length 
c.  sectioning 
d.  wrapping method

d. wrapping method

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called
\_\_\_\_\_. 
a.  rearranging 
b.  normalization 
c.  reduction 
d.  alkaline

c. reduction

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

In permanent waving, the reduction reaction is due to the addition of _____.

a. hydrogen
b. oxygen
c. sodium
d. carbon

a. hydrogen

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

What are the most common reducing agents used in permanent waving?

a. Ammonia water
b. Hydrogen peroxide
c. Thioglycolic acids
d. Hydrogen acids

c. Thioglycolic acids

How well did you know this?

Not at all

Perfectly

``` The _____ of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by the concentration of the reducing agent, or thio. a. durability b. shelf-life c. strength d. concentration ```

c. strength

The active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent waves is _____. a. ammonium thioglycolate b. hydrogen thioglycolate c. alkaline acids d. glyceryl monothioglycolate

a. ammonium thioglycolate

What is the second factor in the overall strength of the waving solution? a. Ammonium thioglycolate b. Degree of alkalinity c. Amount used d. Length of the hair

b. Degree of alkalinity

Alkaline waves, also known as _____, were developed in 1941. a. weak waves b. strong waves c. cold waves d. hot waves

c. cold waves

Most alkaline permanent waves have a pH between _____. a. 4.5 and 5.5 b. 6.0 and 7.0 c. 9.0 and 9.6 d. 10.0 and 11.0

c. 9.0 and 9.6

What is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions? a. Glyceryl monothioglycolate b. Ammonium thioglycolic c. Sodium hydroxide d. Sodium hydrochloride

a. Glyceryl monothioglycolate

All acid waves have three components: permanent waving lotion, neutralizer, and _____. a. conditioner b. prewrap c. stabilizer d. activator

d. activator

Most acid waves used in salons have a pH value between _____. a. 5.5 and 6.5 b. 7.8 and 8.2 c. 9.0 and 10.0 d. 10.1 and 10.5

b. 7.8 and 8.2

``` Modern acid waves are actually _____ waves, which are permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH. a. weaker b. stronger c. acid-balanced d. alkaline-balanced ```

c. acid-balanced

Exothermic waves create a chemical reaction that heats the waving solution and speeds up _____. a. processing b. conditioning c. neutralizing d. formulation

a. processing

``` Waves that are activated from an outside heat source, such as a conventional hood-type hair dryer, are _____ waves. a. stabilized b. endothermic c. exothermic d. acid ```

b. endothermic

_____ waves are perms using an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so that there is very little odor associated with their use. a. Ammonia-free b. Endothermic c. Exothermic d. Acid-balanced

a. Ammonia-free

It is important for stylists to remember that ammonia-free does not necessarily mean _____. a. acid-free b. heat-free c. odor-free d. damage-free

d. damage-free

``` What waving solutions use an ingredient other than ATG, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine, as the primary reducing agent? a. Endothermic b. Exothermic c. Ammonia-free d. Thio-free ```

d. Thio-free

_____ waves are permanent solutions based on sulfites, considered very weak, and are usually marketed as body waves or alternative waves. a. Endothermic b. Exothermic c. Ammonia-free d. Low-pH

d. Low-pH

``` In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first _____. a. 5–10 minutes b. 10–15 minutes c. 15–20 minutes d. hour ```

a. 5–10 minutes

Hair that has too many broken disulfide bonds and will not hold a firm curl is considered _____. a. underprocessed b. overprocessed c. underneutralized d. tinted

b. overprocessed

Overprocessed hair that is further processed will become _____ and cause further damage, including breakage. a. shorter b. straighter c. curlier d. tinted

b. straighter

``` The process that stops the action of permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair into its new form is called _____. a. sectioning b. rinsing c. thio neutralization d. normalization ```

c. thio neutralization

What is the most common neutralizer? a. Sodium chloride b. Chlorine c. Hydrogen peroxide d. Oxygen

c. Hydrogen peroxide

What is the most common type of perm rod? a. Straight rods b. Curved rods c. Soft bender rods d. Concave rods

d. Concave rods

What perm rods are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area? a. Convex rods b. Straight rods c. Conventional rods d. Spiral rods

b. Straight rods

``` What soft foam perm rods are usually about 12 inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod? a. Straight rods b. Curved rods c. Soft bender rods d. Concave rods ```

c. Soft bender rods

_____, also known as circle rods, are usually about 12 inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod, and are secured by fastening the ends together to form a loop. a. Loop rods b. Curved rods c. Soft bender rods d. Concave rods

a. Loop rods

The _____ is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped, providing the most control over the hair ends. a. single flat wrap b. double flat wrap c. bookend wrap d. spiral wrap

b. double flat wrap

The _____ uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the hair strand. a. single flat wrap b. double flat wrap c. bookend wrap d. spiral wrap

a. single flat wrap

The _____ uses one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope. a. single flat wrap b. double flat wrap c. bookend wrap d. spiral wrap

c. bookend wrap

All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into _____. a. subsections b. base sections c. parts d. panels

d. panels

In permanent waving, panels of hair are divided into smaller subsections called _____. a. rod sections b. base sections c. outer sections d. placements

b. base sections

``` ____ refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. a. Base wrapping b. Base placement c. Base direction d. Base sections ```

b. Base placement

Caution should be used with on-base rod placement to avoid additional _____. a. sectioning of hair b. stress and tension on hair c. increased volume d. curl patterns

b. stress and tension on hair

_____ minimizes stress and tension on the hair. a. Base placement b. On-base placement c. Half off-base placement d. Off-base placement

c. Half off-base placement

The angle at which a permanent wave rod is positioned on the head is referred to as _____. a. wrapping point b. rod direction c. diagonal technique d. base direction

d. base direction

The two methods of wrapping the hair around a perm rod are _____. a. flat and spiral b. croquignole and even c. spiral and perpendicular d. croquignole and spiral

d. croquignole and spiral

In the croquignole method of wrapping, the hair is wound from the _____ in overlapping concentric layers. a. scalp to the ends b. longest to the shortest c. ends to the scalp d. shortest to the longest

c. ends to the scalp

In a _____, the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod. a. spiral perm wrap b. croqiognole perm wrap c. basic permanent wrap d. curvature permanent wrap

a. spiral perm wrap

What is another name for the double-rod wrap technique? a. Piggyback wrap b. Straight wrap c. Spiral wrap d. Weave technique

a. Piggyback wrap

The _____, also known as straight set wrap, is a wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-sized bases. a. basic permanent wrap b. curvature permanent wrap c. spiral perm wrap d. weave technique

a. basic permanent wrap

Which wrap utilizes partings and bases throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head? a. Basic permanent wrap b. Curvature permanent wrap c. Spiral perm wrap d. Weave technique

b. Curvature permanent wrap

``` Base sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair, in which wrapping pattern? a. Weave technique b. Bricklay permanent wrap c. Basic permanent wrap d. Straight wrap set ```

b. Bricklay permanent wrap

``` What is a very effective technique for blending between perm rods with opposite base directions using zigzag partings to divide base areas? a. Basic permanent wrap b. Curvature permanent wrap c. Spiral perm wrap d. Weave technique ```

d. Weave technique

Chemical services should not be performed if the scalp analysis shows any signs of _____. a. porosity b. abrasions c. disorders d. tightness

b. abrasions

Hair that has been treated with a hydroxide relaxer is unfit for _____ and will not hold a curl. a. color services b. a haircut c. permanent waving d. wig fitting

c. permanent waving

_____, often found in home haircoloring products, leave a coating on the hair that may cause uneven curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage. a. Peroxide b. Waving solution c. Ammonia d. Metallic salts

d. Metallic salts

What is the process of rearranging the basic structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form? a. Texturizing b. Permanent waving c. Chemical softening d. Chemical hair relaxing

d. Chemical hair relaxing

_____ is the measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows. a. Fluidity b. Viscosity c. Liquidity d. Movement

b. Viscosity

_____ combines the use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing. a. Permanent waving b. Heat styling c. Japanese thermal straighteners d. Chinese thermal straighteners

c. Japanese thermal straighteners

What is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers? a. Hydrogen ion b. Keratin ion c. Peroxide ion d. Lithium ion

a. Hydrogen ion

Hair that is treated with hydroxide relaxers must not be treated with _____. a. conditioning solutions b. color shampoos c. thio relaxers d. normalizing solutions

c. thio relaxers

Hydroxide relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond, converting it into a(n) _____. a. normalization bond b. acidic bond c. lanthionine bond d. amino bond

c. lanthionine bond

Which relaxer contains only one component and is used without mixing? a. Neutralizing relaxers b. Metal hydroxide relaxers c. Guanidine hydroxide relaxers d. Calcium hydroxide relaxers

b. Metal hydroxide relaxers

Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called _____. a. metal relaxers b. no-lye relaxers c. lye relaxers d. medium relaxers

c. lye relaxers

Which of the following are relaxers often marketed and sold as no mix–no lye relaxers? a. Potassium hydroxide relaxers b. Sodium hydroxide relaxers c. Ammonium thio relaxers d. Guanidine hydroxide relaxers

a. Potassium hydroxide relaxers

Relaxers that contain two components and must be mixed immediately prior to use are _____. a. guanidine hydroxide relaxers b. ammonium thioglycolate c. no-lye relaxers d. potassium hydroxide relaxers

a. guanidine hydroxide relaxers

What is a hydroxide relaxer that does not require the application of a protective base? a. No-base relaxer b. Base cream relaxer c. Cream relaxer d. Metal hydroxide relaxer

a. No-base relaxer

``` The difference in the strength of most chemical hair relaxers is determined by the concentration of _____. a. lanthionization b. hydroxide c. ammonia d. coatings ```

b. hydroxide

During a relaxer strand test, hair that is pressed to the scalp and continues to curl is _____. a. sufficiently relaxed b. insufficiently relaxed c. normalized d. overprocessed

b. insufficiently relaxed

``` Which conditioner contains an acidic pH that restores the hair’s natural pH and should be used after a hydroxide relaxer? a. Lanthionization solution b. Natural lotion c. Swelling cream d. Normalizing lotion ```

d. Normalizing lotion

Keratin straightening treatments work by _____ in a semi-permanent manner. a. flat ironing b. fixing the keratin in place c. breaking side bonds d. neutralizing hydrogen bonds

b. fixing the keratin in place

A combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on large rods is a _____. a. permanent wave b. soft curl permanent c. full curl permanent d. relaxer retouch

b. soft curl permanent

``` Where should you start the application of the chemical relaxer, often considered the most resistant area? a. Back of the head b. Front hairline c. Scalp area d. Side area ```

a. Back of the head