3.3 Waves And Beaches Flashcards
1
Q
What causes a wave?
A
Water becomes shallower. Circular orbit of water becomes elliptical. Wavelength and velocity decrease, causing a backup. Forces wave higher before spilling/plunging and breaking. Water runs up beach as swash, flows back as backwash
2
Q
Fetch
A
Distance a wave travels before reaching the beach
3
Q
Swell wave
A
A wave originating from further out in the water (longer fetch) and are larger than local waves
4
Q
Constructive wave characteristics
A
Low surging wave, long wavelength.
Strong wash, weak backwash.
Beach gain.
5
Q
Destructive wave characteristics
A
High plunging waves, short wavelength.
Weak swash, strong backwash.
Beach loss.
6
Q
Beach morphology
A
Shape of beach. Can differ between seasons.
