1.3 Coastal Landscapes and Processes (Paper 1) Flashcards

1
Q

<p>What is a<strong>coast</strong>?</p>

A

<p>A part of land that joins the sea</p>

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2
Q

<p>What causes<strong>waves</strong>to form?</p>

A

<p>Wind blowing over the sea</p>

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3
Q

<p>What does the<strong>size</strong>and<strong>strength</strong>of waves depend on?</p>

A
<ul>
	<li>How strong the wind is</li>
	<li>How long it blows for</li>
	<li>How far it travels</li>
</ul>
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4
Q

<p>Define<strong>swash</strong></p>

A

<p>Water rushing up the beach</p>

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5
Q

<p>Define<strong>backwash</strong></p>

A

<p>Water draining back down the beach</p>

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6
Q

<p>Define<strong>fetch</strong></p>

A

<p>The distance a wave has travelled</p>

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7
Q

<p>What are<strong>constructive</strong>waves?</p>

A

<p>Constructive waves are waves that have a very<strong>strong swash</strong>and aweak <strong>backwash</strong></p>

<p>Theybuildup the beach</p>

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8
Q

<p>How do<strong>constructive</strong>waves build beaches?</p>

A

<p>They deposit material withthe<strong>swash</strong>as the<strong>backwash is weak</strong>and leavesand and pebbles behind</p>

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9
Q

<p>What are<strong>destructive</strong>waves?</p>

A

<p>Waves that have a<strong>weak swash</strong>and a<strong>strong backwash</strong></p>

<p>They<u>pull pebbles and sand back down the beach</u>as the water retreats</p>

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10
Q

<p>What arethe<strong>features </strong>ofconstructivewaves?</p>

A
<ul>
	<li>Low</li>
	<li>Wave crests far apart</li>
	<li>Gentle sloping wave front</li>
	<li>6 - 8 per minute</li>
	<li>Gentle beach created</li>
</ul>
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11
Q

<p>What are thefeatures of<strong>destructive</strong>waves?</p>

A

<ul><li>Tall</li><li>High frequency</li><li>Break close together</li><li>Up to 15 per minute</li></ul>

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12
Q

<p>What are<strong>marine processes</strong>?</p>

A

<p>Marine processes are the actions of waves. This includes <b>erosion, transportation &amp; deposition</b></p>

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13
Q

<p>Which<strong>waves</strong>are associated with coastal erosion?</p>

A

<p>Destructive Waves</p>

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14
Q

<p>Define <strong>weathering</strong></p>

A

<p>Weathering is the breakdown of rock at or near the surface by the weather</p>

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15
Q

.

A

.

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16
Q

<p>What is<strong>mechanical</strong>weathering?</p>

A

<p>Mechanical weathering is caused by physical changes such as changes in temperature, freezing and thawing</p>

<p>Water gets into cracks in rocks, freezes when the temperature drops below 0°C, prising the rock apart. When the water melts, a larger crack develops. Over time, this causes rocks to break apart</p>

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17
Q

<p>What is<strong>chemical</strong>weathering?</p>

A

<p>The weathering of rocks by chemicals is called chemical weathering. Rainwater is naturally slightly acidic becausecarbon dioxidefrom the air dissolves in it. Minerals in rocks may react with the rainwater, causing the rock to be weathered</p>

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18
Q

<p>Define<strong>erosion</strong></p>

A

<p>Wearing away of rocks by water, weather or ice</p>

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19
Q

<p>Listthe<strong>4</strong>main types of<strong>erosion</strong></p>

A
<ul>
	<li>Hydraulic action</li>
	<li>Abrasion</li>
	<li>Attrition</li>
	<li>Solution</li>
</ul>
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20
Q

<p>Define<strong>hydraulic action</strong></p>

A

<p>Water being forced into cracks in the rock and breaking it up</p>

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21
Q

<p>Define <strong>abrasion</strong></p>

A

<p>Loose rocks (sediment) are thrown against the cliff by waves. This wears away at the cliff and chips bits of rock off</p>

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22
Q

<p>Define <strong>attrition</strong></p>

A

<p>Loose sediment that has been knocked off the cliff is swirled around by waves, colliding with other pieces wearing them into smaller smoother pieces</p>

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23
Q

<p>Define <strong>solution</strong></p>

A

<p>Seawater dissolves material from the rock due to its slight acidity</p>

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24
Q

<p>What is<strong>massmovement</strong>?</p>

A

<p>When rocks loosened by weathering move down slope under gravity. They can slide or slump</p>

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25
Q

<p>What is<strong>slumping</strong>?</p>

A

<p>Slumping occurs after long periods of rainfall. The rain seeps through permeable rocks such as sandstone. At the junction where permeable and impermeable rock meet, the saturated soil slumps and slides in a rotational manner along a curved surface</p>

<p>This is common where cliffs are made of clay</p>

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26
Q

<p>What is<strong>sliding</strong>?</p>

A

<p>Sliding is movement along a flat surface, usually a bedding plane. Large amounts of soil and rock move downslope rapidly and cause a lot of damage</p>

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27
Q

<p>What is <strong>rock fall</strong>?</p>

A

<p>A type of mass movement where material breaks off the cliff and falls down the slope</p>

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28
Q

<p>How is sediment<strong>transported</strong>along the coastline?</p>

A

<p>Longshore drift</p>

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29
Q

<p>Describe how<strong>longshore drift</strong>works</p>

A

<ul>
<li>Waves approach the beach at anangle</li>
<li>As waves break theswashcarriesmaterial up the beachat the same angle</li>
<li>Thebackwash carries material straight backdown the beach under gravity</li>
<li>This causes the material to move along the beach in azig-zagpattern</li>
</ul>

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30
Q

<p>What is<strong>deposition</strong>?</p>

A

<p>When the sea loses energy, it drops the sand, rock particles and pebbles it has been carrying. This is calleddeposition.</p>

<p><strong>Deposition happens when the swash is stronger than the backwash</strong>and is associated with<strong>constructive </strong>waves</p>

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31
Q

<p>Defne <strong>landform</strong></p>

A

<p>A feature in the landscape that has been formed by erosion, transportation and/or deposition</p>

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32
Q

<p>What<strong>factors</strong>influence the landforms found along a coastline?</p>

A

<p><strong>Hard rock</strong> (resistant rock) - does not erode easily - likely to find headlands</p>

<p><strong>Soft rock</strong> (less resistant rock) - erodes easily - more likely to be a bay</p>

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33
Q

<p>List some coastal landforms that result from<strong>erosion</strong></p>

A
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34
Q

<p>How do<strong>headlands</strong>and<strong>bays</strong>form?</p>

A

<p>Where coasts are made from alternating bands of hard and soft rocks, destructive waves will erode the less resistant (softer rock) more to form bays and coves. The more resistant (harder) rocks sticks out into the sea to form headlands</p>

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35
Q

<p>Describe how a<strong>wave-cut platform</strong>is formed</p>

A

<ul>
<li>The sea attacks the base of the cliff forming a wave-cut notch.</li>
<li>The notch increases in size causing the cliff to collapse.</li>
<li>The backwash carries the rubble towards the sea forming a wave-cut platform.</li>
<li>The process repeats and the cliff continues to retreat</li>
</ul>

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36
Q

<p>How docaves, arches, stacks and stumps form?</p>

A

<ol>
<li>Resistant rock headlands have faults and joints</li>
<li>Abrasion and hydraulic action widens the joints</li>
<li>Waves make the joint wider to form a cave</li>
<li>Waves erode the cave until it cuts through the headland to form an arch</li>
<li>The arch is eroded until the roof collapses leaving a stack</li>
<li>The stack eventually collapses leaving a stump</li>
</ol>

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37
Q

<p>List some coastal landforms that form as a result of<strong>deposition</strong></p>

A
<ul>
	<li>Beaches</li>
	<li>Sand dunes</li>
	<li>Spits</li>
	<li>Bars</li>
</ul>
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38
Q

<p>How do<strong>beaches</strong>form?</p>

A

<ol>
<li>The material may come from eroded cliffs or have been moved from a beach somewhere else</li>
<li>Waves transport the material by longshore drift and deposit it</li>
</ol>

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39
Q

<p>What is a<strong>bar</strong>?</p>

A

<p>A narrow ridge of sand or shingle that grows across a bay</p>

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40
Q

<p>How is a<strong>bar</strong>formed?</p>

A

<p><strong>Longshore drift</strong>carries sediment along from a headland, depositing sediment further out from the headland. Over time, this line of sediment joins two headlands together; a bar is formed, cutting the bay off from the sea</p>

41
Q

<p>Which feature lies behind a<strong>bar</strong>?</p>

A

<p>A lagoon</p>

42
Q

<p>Why do<strong>spits</strong>have a hooked or re-curved end?</p>

A

<p>Spits have a hooked end aswind and waves changesthe direction of the spit</p>

43
Q

<p>What are<strong>spits</strong>?</p>

A

<p>Lond narrow ridges of sand and shingle stretching out from the coast</p>

44
Q

<p>How isspit aformed?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>Longshore drift moves material along the coastline</li>
<li>A spit forms when the material is deposited further out from the coastline</li>
<li>Over time the spit grows and develops a hook as wind blows off the sea.</li>
<li>Waves cannot get past the spit and a sheltered area develops behind it where silt is depositedto createmud flats and salt marshes</li>
</ul>

45
Q

<p>Which feature lies behind a<strong>spit</strong>?</p>

A

<p>A saltmarsh and mudflats</p>

46
Q

<p>How are<strong>sand dunes</strong>formed?</p>

A

<ol>
<li>Wind carries sediment up the beach</li>
<li>Obstacles on the beach encourages sand to build up</li>
<li>Vegetation begins to stabilse the dune, encouraging more sand to deposit</li>
<li>Overtime, the dunes migrate backwards, away from the sea</li>
</ol>

47
Q

<p>Which grass grows on sand dunes and holds them in place?</p>

A

<p>Marram grass</p>

48
Q

<p>Name an<strong>example</strong>of a UK coastline that has major erosional and depositional landforms</p>

A

<p>Dorset Coast</p>

49
Q

<p>Name some coastal features you would find at the Dorset coast</p>

A

<ul>
<li><strong>Arch </strong>- Durdle Door</li>
<li><strong>Bay </strong>- Swanage Bay and Studland Bay</li>
<li><strong>Cave, Arch, Stack, Stump </strong>- Old Harry</li>
<li><strong>Bar and Lagoon</strong> - Chesil Beach and Fleet Lagoon</li>
</ul>

50
Q

<p>Name a coastline that is at risk of erosion and has coastal management strategies in place</p>

A

<p>The Holderness Coast</p>

51
Q

<p>Whyis the<strong>HoldernessCoast</strong>at risk of coastal erosion?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>Strong prevailing winds creatinglongshore driftthat moves material south along the coastline</li>
<li>The cliffs are made of a soft boulder clay</li>
</ul>

52
Q

<p>Why does the Holderness coast need protecting?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>Fast eroding cost (nearly 2m lost each year)</li>
<li>Strong prevailing winds carries sediment south</li>
<li>Made of soft boulder clay</li>
<li>Lots of towns along the coastline</li>
<li>Important gas terminal located there</li>
</ul>

53
Q

<p>What management strategies are being used at<strong>Holderness</strong>?</p>

A

<ul>
<li><strong>Mappleton</strong>- rock armour along base of cliffs and rock groynes to trap sediment</li>
<li><strong>Hornsea</strong>- sea wall and groynes</li>
<li><strong>Withernsea</strong>- sea wall, groynes and rock armour</li>
</ul>

54
Q

<p>What are the<strong>impacts</strong>of the<strong>management</strong>of the<strong>Holdernesscoast</strong>?</p>

A

<p>+ Mappleton is successfully protected from erosion</p>

<p>- Towns south of Mappleton have lost sediment due to groynes, therefore they are experiencing increased erosion</p>

<p>- Increased need to protecting at the Easington Gas terminal which has cost £6 million</p>

55
Q

<p>What is meant by<strong>hard engineering</strong>of coastlines?</p>

A

<p>Man made structures that are used to reduce coastal erosion and flooding</p>

56
Q

<p>Name a range of<strong>hard engineering</strong>strategies used to manage coasts</p>

A
<ul>
	<li>Groynes</li>
	<li>Sea walls</li>
	<li>Gabions</li>
	<li>Rock armour</li>
</ul>
57
Q

<p>What are the<strong>benefits</strong>of<strong>hard engineering</strong>strategies?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>Usually immediately effective</li>
<li>Long lasting</li>
</ul>

58
Q

<p>What is a<strong>sea wall</strong>?</p>

A

<p>Sea Walls are concrete or rock barriers placed at the foot of cliffs or at the back of the beach</p>

<p>They are curved to reflect waves back to the sea</p>

59
Q

<p>What are the<strong>advantages</strong>of<strong>seawalls</strong>?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>Effective at stopping the sea</li>
<li>Provides a promenade for people to walk along</li>
</ul>

60
Q

<p>What are the<strong>disadvantages</strong>of<strong>seawalls</strong>?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>Can look obtrusive and unnatural</li>
<li>Very expensive and high maintenance at£10,000 per metre</li>
</ul>

61
Q

<p>What is a<strong>groyne</strong>?</p>

A

<p>A groyne is a woodenor rock structures built out to sea at 90 degrees to the coast</p>

<p>They trap sediment moved along the coast by longshore drift</p>

62
Q

<p>What are the<strong>advantages</strong>of using<strong>groynes</strong>?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>Create a wider beach for tourists</li>
<li>Provide structures for people to fish from</li>
</ul>

63
Q

<p>What are the<strong>disadvantages</strong>of using<strong>groynes</strong>?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>Can be seen as unattractive.</li>
<li>Costly to build and maintain at £150,000 every 200m</li>
<li>Can have knock-on effects further down the coast</li>
</ul>

64
Q

<p>What are<strong>gabions</strong>?</p>

A

<p>Gabions are wire cages filled with rocks that can support cliffs or act as a buffer against the sea</p>

65
Q

<p>What are the<strong>advantages</strong>of<strong>gabions</strong>?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>Cheap to produce and flexible in design</li>
<li>Can improve drainage of cliffs</li>
<li>Will eventually become vegetated and merge into the landscape</li>
</ul>

66
Q

<p>What are the<strong>disadvantages</strong>of<strong>gabions</strong>?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>For a while they look unattractive</li>
<li>Cages last 5 - 10 years before rusting</li>
</ul>

67
Q

<p>What is<strong>rockarmour</strong>?</p>

A

<p>Piles of large boulders dumped at the foot of a cliff</p>

<p>The rocks force waves to break and absorb their energy</p>

68
Q

<p>What are the<strong>advantages</strong>of<strong>rockarmour</strong>?</p>

A
<ul>
	<li>Relatively cheap and easy to maintain</li>
	<li>Can provide interest for people
	<ul>
		<li>Often used for fishing</li>
	</ul>
	</li>
</ul>
69
Q

<p>What are the<strong>disadvantages</strong>of<strong>rockarmour</strong>?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>Rocks usually come from other parts of the coastline</li>
<li>Can be expensive at£200,000 per 100 metres</li>
<li>Rock don't fit with the local geology</li>
<li>Can be obtrusive</li>
</ul>

70
Q

<p>What is meant by<strong>soft engineering</strong>of coasts?</p>

A

<p>Working with the environment or nature to reduce the impacts of the waves</p>

71
Q

<p>Name a range of<strong>soft engineering</strong>strategies used to manage river flooding</p>

A
<ul>
	<li>Beach nourishment and reprofiling</li>
	<li>Dune regeneration</li>
	<li>Dune fencing</li>
</ul>
72
Q

<p>What are the<strong>benefits</strong>of<strong>soft engineering</strong>strategies?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>Less expensive than hard engineering options.</li>
<li>Usually more long-term andsustainable</li>
<li>Less impact on the environment</li>
</ul>

73
Q

<p>Describe<strong>beachnourishment</strong></p>

A

<p>The addition of sand or shingle to an existing beach to make it higher or wider</p>

74
Q

<p>What are the<strong>disadvantages</strong>of<strong>beachnourishment</strong>?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>Needs constant maintenance unless structures are built to retain the beach</li>
<li>Becomes costly in the long term</li>
</ul>

75
Q

<p>What arethe<strong>advantages</strong>of<strong>beachnourishment</strong>?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>Replacesbeach or cliff material that has been removed by erosion or longshore drift</li>
<li>Beaches are anatural defenceagainst erosion and coastal flooding</li>
<li>Beaches also attracttourists</li>
<li>Relatively inexpensive option</li>
</ul>

76
Q

<p>What is<strong>duneregeneration</strong>?</p>

A

<p>Marram grass is planted to stabalise damaged dunes and help them to develop</p>

<p>Fences are used to keep people away from these areas</p>

77
Q

<p>What are the<strong>advantages</strong>of<strong>dune regeneration</strong>?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>Maintains a natural coastal environment that is popular with people or wildlife</li>
<li>Relatively cheap at£200 - £2,000 per 100 metres</li>
</ul>

78
Q

<p>What are the<strong>disadvantages</strong>of<strong>duneregeneration</strong>?</p>

A
<ul>
	<li>Time consuming</li>
	<li>Can be damaged by storms</li>
	<li>Unpopular with some tourists due to fencing</li>
</ul>
79
Q

<p>What is<strong>dunefencing</strong>?</p>

A

<p>Fences are built alond the seaward facing dunes to encourage new dune formation</p>

80
Q

<p>What are the<strong>advantages</strong>of<strong>dunefencing</strong>?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>Minimal impact on natural systems</li>
<li>Can control public access to protect other ecosystems</li>
<li>Fairly cheap at£400 - £2,000 per 100 metres</li>
</ul>

81
Q

<p>What are the<strong>disadvantages</strong>of<strong>dune fencing</strong>?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>Can be unsightly</li>
<li>Needs regular maintenance</li>
</ul>

82
Q

<p>Which form of sea defence is built to prevent the effects of longshore drift?</p>

A

<p>Groynes</p>

83
Q

<p>What is<strong>managedretreat</strong>?</p>

A

<p>Controlled retreat of a coastline by allowing land to flood. This marsh land then becomes a protective strategy, protecting the land behind it</p>

84
Q

<p>Describe the<strong>advantages</strong>of<strong>managed</strong> <strong>retreat</strong>?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>Flooded land is land of low value</li>
<li>Encourages the development ofbeaches (a natural defence) andsalt marshes(important for the environment)</li>
<li>Cost is minimal</li>
</ul>

85
Q

<p>Why is<strong>managedretreat</strong>a popular form of coastal management?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>It is more sustainable in the long term as less money is spent on hard engineering</li>
<li>Sea level rise due to climate change is forcing us to choose this option</li>
</ul>

86
Q

<p>Name a managed retreat scheme</p>

A

<p>Medmerry near Chichester, West Sussex</p>

87
Q

<p>Why was the Medmerry managed retreat scheme needed?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>Low lying flat land used for farming and caravans was threatened by a sea wall needing repair</li>
<li>Building a new sea wall was a very expensive option</li>
<li>As the land was of low value it was decided to allow the sea to flood the land</li>
</ul>

88
Q

<p>What will the Medmerry managed retreat scheme create?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>A large natural salt marsh acting as a buffer with the sea</li>
<li>This will protect surronding farmland and the caravan park</li>
<li>Creates a valuable wildlife habitat which is attractive to visitors</li>
</ul>

89
Q

<p>What have been the<strong>impacts</strong>of cliff management at Mappleton?</p>

A

<ul>
<li>The rock groynes havestoppedbeach material being moved south from Mappleton along the coast</li>
<li>However, this hasincreasederosionsouthof Mappleton.Benefitsin one area might have anegativeeffect on another</li>
</ul>

90
Q

<p>What is the <b>High Water Mark</b>?</p>

A

<p>The high water mark is the point the highest up the beach that the sea level rises to
</p>

91
Q

<p>What is the <b>Low Water Mark</b>?</p>

A

<p>The low water mark is the point the lowest down the beach that the sea level falls to</p>

92
Q

<p>What are the 4 types of transportation?</p>

A

<ul><li>Suspension</li><li>Saltation</li><li>Solution</li><li>Traction</li></ul>

93
Q

<p>What is <strong>Suspension</strong> in transportation?</p>

A

<p>A suspension is where silt (sand, clay or other material) and sand particles are held in water (but not dissolved). The silt and sand particles are then transported along with the water</p>

94
Q

<p>What is <strong>Solution</strong> in transportation?</p>

A

<p>A solution is where rocks that are soluble are dissolved by water (limestone and chalk in particular). They are then transported within the water</p>

95
Q

<p>What is <strong>Saltation</strong> in transportation?</p>

A

<p>Saltation is where small sand and gravel particles bounce along the river bed or sea bed.
They will travel in the direction of the flow of water</p>

96
Q

<p>What is <strong>Traction</strong> in transportation?</p>

A

<p>Traction is where large rocks or large particles are dragged along the river bed or sea bed by the current</p>

97
Q

<p>What are <strong>Concordant Coastlines</strong>?</p>

A

<p>Concordant coastlines have a layer of soft rock, then a layer of harder rock, then a layer of soft rock next to each other
The sea's waves will only hit 1 type of rock when they meet the coast</p>

98
Q

<p>What are <strong>Discordant Coastlines</strong>?</p>

A

<p>Discordant coastlines have alternating chunks of hard rock and soft rock at 90° to the coast. The sea's waves will hit both hard rock and soft rock when they meet the coast.
Bays are usually created where the sea meets the areas of soft rock and headlands are created where the areas of hard rock are</p>