13 - Bordeaux Flashcards
What is the largest appellation region in France in terms of volume
Bordeaux
What is the largest appellation region in France in terms of value
Bordeaux
Climate in Bordeaux
Moderate Maritime
Maritime climate
- cool-moderate temperatures (moderate in Bx)
- low continentality
(low annual diff between the hottest & coldest months) - evenly spread rainfall throughout the year
Factors influencing reg. cl. in Bordeaux
- Gulf Stream: warming ocean current extends the growing season: spring frosts are rarely a problem and grape ripening can continue well into October
- Atlantic: brings high levels of rainfall & humidity
- Landes forest & coastal sand dunes: lie to the west of the region. Protect from the worst of the Atlantic storms
rain in Bordeaux
Rain falls throughout the year (Maritime) and can
- disrupt flowering & fruit set
- promote rot
- dilute the flavours in the grapes at harvest
–> vintage variation is an important consideration
How can vintage variation in Bx (style & quality) be reduced?
- rejecting unhealthy & unripe grapes
- canopy management
- blend
What changes is done in Bx that have resulted in healthier grapes, decline in use of sprays, and a marked rise in the levels of sugar & flavour development at harvest time?
changes in canopy management techniques
what have the changes in canopy management techniques in Bx resulted in?
(3)
- healthier grapes
- decline in the use of sprays
- marked rise in the levels of sugar & flavour development at harvest time
Sv or blend in Bx?
Almost all red Bx & most Bx whites are produced from a blend of grape varieties
why can it be very risky to rely too heavily on one variety in Bx?
- the variability in the weather, in particular rainfall
flower & ripening times of varieties in Bx
- flower & ripen at different times
–> one bad frost or heavy shower is unlikely to ruin an entire crop - CS: late budding, late ripening
- CF: ?
- Merlot: early budding, mid ripening
(buds & ripens earlier than CS) - PV: ?
- Sémillon: ? budding, mid ripening
- SB: ? budding, early ripening
- Muscadelle: ?
How many grape varieties are permitted under the appellation regulations for Bx?
How many predominate in practice?
13
3 black, 2 white
Important Grape Varieties in Bx
(4+3)
- CS
- CF
- Merlot
- PV
- Sémillon
- SB
- Muscadelle
CS in Bx
(where, soil, blend)
- dominates in the Haut-Médoc, also very important in the Bas-Médoc and the Graves
- high stone/gravel content of the soils raises vy temperature –> the only areas where CS can reliably ripen
- prefers well drained warm soils
- 3/4 of the blend in the finest wines
CF in Bx
(where, char., soil)
- widely used in Saint-Émilion and, to a lesser extent, in the Médoc and Graves
- produces wines with less body & tannin than CS
- can have herbaceous or stalky flavours when unripe
- vibrant fruit & floral notes when ripe
- prefers well drained warm soils
Merlot in Bx
(where, soil, type)
- most widely planted variety in Bx
- particularly important in the premium wines of Saint-Émilion & Pomerol
- can successfully grow on the cooler clay soils
- softness
- usually the grape that is perdominant in high volume, inexpensive wines
PV in Bx
- far smaller plantings than CS, CF, Merlot
- ripens fully only in very hot years
- very deep-coloured, tannic wine
- ages slowly
- never plays more than a minor role in a blend
- used mainly to add tannin, colour & some spicy notes
wm practices for red wine in Bx
- wm practices are very varied
- reflection of the style of wine being made & the resources available to the producer
- little agreement over which fermentation vessels produce the best wines: some of the best producers use the traditional oak vats as well as steel or concrete vats to increase their blending options
- most wines are blended in the spring following the vintage, some winemakers prefer to keep their different parcels of wine separate until the end of maturation
- to maintain the quality & style of their top wine:
most leading châteaux now make second & third wines from blends that are not suitable for the grand vin (best wine). Some wine may even be sold off to a négociant. - top-quality red Bx is aged in small oak barriques of 225 litres
- amount of new oak:
–> In the finest châteaux, all the wine may be put into new casks
–> Lesser properties may use a smaller proportion of new casks
–> generic Bx wines are unlikely to see oak at all - constant improvements in the winery have led to riper, fruitier & more concentrated wines even in difficult vintages
Fermentation vessels used for red Bx
- little agreement over which fermentation vessels produce the best wines
- some of the best producers use the traditional oak vats as well as steel or concrete vats to increase their blending options
blending of red wine in Bx
- most wines are blended in the spring following the vintage, some winemakers prefer to keep their different parcels of wine separate until the end of maturation
- to maintain the quality & style of their top wine:
most leading châteaux now make second & third wines from blends that are not suitable for the grand vin (best wine). Some wine may even be sold off to a négociant.
top wine vs second & third wines in Bx
- to maintain the quality & style of their top wine:
most leading châteaux now make second & third wines from blends that are not suitable for the grand vin (best wine). Some wine may even be sold off to a négociant.
aging of red wine in Bx
- top-quality red Bx is aged in small oak barriques of 225 litres
- amount of new oak:
–> In the finest châteaux, all the wine may be put into new casks
–> Lesser properties may use a smaller proportion of new casks
–> generic Bx wines are unlikely to see oak at all
constant improvements in the winery have led to …
(red Bx)
constant improvements in the winery have led to riper, fruitier & more concentrated wines even in difficult vintages
Sémillon in Bx
(info, where, blend)
- thin skin
- affinity for noble rot
- most important variety for sweet wines in Bx
- blended with SB in the premium dry white wines of Pessac-Léognan & Graves
- adds body to the blend
SB in Bx
(char., sv vs blend)
- citrus & green fruit aromas
- used increasingly for varietal, dry white wines
- provides high acidity in blended wines, which is particularly necessary for sweet wines
Muscadelle in Bx
- pronounced grapey, floral flavour
- plays an important supporting role in sweet & dry white
- only makes up a small percentage of any blend
wm practices for white wines of Bx
(different styles - different techniques)
1. Lower end
2. Premium dry
3. Great sweet
- made in a range of styles
-
Lower end of the market tend to be
- fresh & fruity
- fermented in temperature controlled, inert vessels
- minimal further ageing
- some show toasty hints of oak -
Premium dry whites from Pessac-Léognan are
- frequently fermented & matured in new oak barrels
- have a richness & nutty flavour overlaying the fruit - The great sweet wines of Bx:
- from fruit that has been infected by noble rot
- best examples are fermented & matured in new oak barrels for anything up to three years
Bordeaux classifications
(vs appellation system, vy/estates, 4 types)
- With the exception of Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux’s classification systems lie outside of the appellation system
- the classifications do not rank individual vineyards but individual estates, commonly known as the châteaux
(more a brand than a designation)
Types
- 1855 Classification, crus classés –> Médoc & Sauternes
- cru bourgeois –> Médoc
- crus classés –> Graves (Pessac-Léognan)
- Grand Cru –> Saint-Émilion
which one of Bordeaux’s classification systems do NOT lie outside of the appellation system?
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru
- integrated into the appellation system
The 1855 Classification
(originally, changes, now)
- on the occasion of the Paris Universal Exhibition
- the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce was approached to
- produce an official list of their best red wines from the Médoc and white wines from Sauternes
Over the years:
- the classified châteaux have undergone numerous changes in their number, size & ownership, & in the quality of the wine made
–> how far the 1855 Classification actually represents the current quality levels of the wines is a constant source of debate
–> the classification still stands virtually intact
Chateaux that are listed within this classification are referred to as crus classés
- Médoc: 5 ranks
Top rank: Ch. Lafite Rothschild, Latour, Margaux, Mouton Rothschild, Haut-Brion (Graves)
- Sauternes: 3 ranks
Top rank: Ch. d’Yquem
What are crus classés?
- Chateaux that are listed within the 1855 Classification of Bordeaux are referred to as crus classés
- Wines listed in the Graves classification may also call themselves crus classés
The 1855 Classification,
Number of ranks in Médoc
5 ranks
The 1855 Classification,
Châteaux in top rank Médoc + Graves
- Ch. Lafite Rothschild
- Latour
- Margaux
- Mouton Rothschild
- Haut-Brion (Graves)
The 1855 Classification,
Number of ranks in Sauternes
3 ranks
The 1855 Classification,
Châteaux in top rank Sauternes
- Ch. d’Yquem
what is cru bourgeois
- classification of other estates of the Médoc that was not classified in the 1855 Classification
- only awarded to wines in a specific vintage, rather than to the château itself
–> wines from new vintages must be submitted each year to gain classification
what other classification do they have in Graves (Pessac-Léognan)?
- classified with parallel, but separate, lists for red & white wines
- no ranking: all listed wines may simply call themselves crus classés
- all the crus classé châteaux now lie within the limits of the Pessac-Léognan (this appellation was created after the Graves classification was drawn up)
what are crus classés
- Chateaux that are listed within the 1855 Classification of Bordeaux are referred to as crus classés
- Wines listed in the Graves classification may also call themselves crus classés. No ranking.
describe the classification of Saint-Émilion
- integrated into the appellation system
- within Saint-Émilion there is a separate appellation
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru - within this appellation there is a classification of the best châteaux
–> Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé
–> Saint-Émilion Premier Grand Cru Classé
Saint-Émilion Premier Grand Cru Classé A
Saint-Émilion Premier Grand Cru Classé B - reclassifications, with the possibility of promotion & demotion, which occur at least once every ten years
What are the rivers of Bordeaux?
The Dordogne and Garonne rivers combine to form the Gironde Estuary
West and south of Gironde/Garonne
Left Bank
- Médoc
- Graves
- Sauternes
between the Dordogne and the Garonne
- Entre-Deux-Mers
to the north & east of the Gironde & Dordogne
Right Bank
- Saint-Émilion
- Pomerol
How many different appellations are there in Bx?
over 50
size of appellations in Bx
range in size from the very large generic appellations, which cover the whole vineyard area, down to the small commune appellations
appellations in Bx compared to Burgundy
- do not form a neat hierarchy based on quality
- easier to look at them in groups based on the styles of wine made in them
Generic Appellations of Bx
Red:
- Bordeaux
- Bordeaux Supérieur
White:
- Bordeaux
Rosé:
- Bordeaux Rosé
- Bordeaux Clairet
The standard of these basic Bordeaux wines has improved considerably & continues to do so as export-focused producers are trying to ensure that their wines can compete with similarly priced wines from other parts of the world
- difference between Red Bordeaux & Bordeaux Supérieur
- general characteristics (not separated, but best vs cheapest)
- Supérieur has slightly stricter appellation rules and requires a higher level of alcohol in the final wine.
- Characteristics
- Best: early drinking medium-bodied wines with ripe red & black fruit, and sometimes cedar notes from oak
- Cheapest: can be lighter in body & have more astringent tannins than the better wines
Rosé Bordeaux
Bordeaux Rosé
- Best: fresh & fruity with an increasing number of producers making high-quality examples
Bordeaux Clairet
- a style of wine that is mainly popular on the French market
- undergoes a longer maceration than a typical rosé & is deeper in colour & fuller in body
White Bordeaux:
dominant grape & character
- increasingly dominated by SB & shows a vibrant grassy character
Appellations on the Left Bank (10)
- Médoc
- Haut-Médoc
- Saint-Estèphe
- Pauillac
- Saint-Julien
- Margaux
- Graves
- Pessac-Léognan
- Sauternes
- Barsac
Appellations on the Right Bank (5)
- Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux
- Pomerol
- Saint-Émilion
- Francs Côtes de Bordeaux
- Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
Appellations between Dordogne & Garonne (2)
- Entre-Deux-Mers
- Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux
Where is Médoc and Graves situated?
- Médoc lies to the north of the city of Bordeaux
- Graves lies to the south
Describe the appellations north of Bordeaux
Médoc is divided into:
- Bas-Médoc: northernmost part, labelled Médoc, predominantly clay soil but outcrops of gravel, the wines tend to have a higher proportion of Merlot in the blend than those just to the south & tend to be more early-drinking in style
- Haut-Médoc: southern part, more highly rated
Within Haut-Médoc there are a number of smaller appellations, ‘communes’, in which most of the higher classified châteaux can be found
The 4 with the highest reputation:
- Saint-Estèphe
- Pauillac
- Saint-Julien
- Margaux
These wines have a high percentage of CS in the blend & generally display a core of blackcurrant fruit, complemented by cedar notes from oak. They can have grippy tannins when young, and often have a long ageing potential
How is Médoc divided into appellations
Médoc is divided into:
- Bas-Médoc: northernmost part, labelled Médoc
- Haut-Médoc: southern part, more highly rated
Within Haut-Médoc there are a number of smaller appellations, ‘communes’
The 4 with the highest reputation:
- Saint-Estèphe
- Pauillac
- Saint-Julien
- Margaux
The wines in Médoc
Bas-Médoc
- tend to have a higher proportion of Merlot in the blend than those just to the south
- tend to be more early-drinking in style
Haut-Médoc
(Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac, Saint-Julien, Margaux)
- have a high percentage of CS in the blend
- generally display a core of blackcurrant fruit
- complemented by cedar notes from oak
- can have grippy tannins when young
- often have a long ageing potential
The 4 ‘communes’ with highest reputation in Haut-Médoc (N-S)
- Saint-Estèphe
- Pauillac
- Saint-Julien
- Margaux
Describe the red appellations south of Bordeaux
Pessac-Léognan:
- immediately to the south of Bx
- the most highly rated area in Graves
- soils are gravelly & well-suited to CS
- in general the wines are a little lighter in body & more fragrant than the finest wines of the Haut-Médoc
Graves:
- extends to the south of P-L
- making red wines that are similar in style, but less concentrated & complex
- usually with a higher proportion of Merlot
The red wines in Graves
Pessac-Léognan:
- in general the wines are a little lighter in body & more fragrant than the finest wines of the Haut-Médoc
Graves:
- making red wines that are similar in style, but less concentrated & complex
- usually with a higher proportion of Merlot
Describe the appellations Saint-Émilion & Pomerol
- dominated by Merlot & to a lesser extent CF
Saint-Émilion
- the larger of the two principal appellations
- 3 distinct groups of vineyards on differing soils
1. vineyards on a plateau to the north & west of the town of Saint-Émilion
–> warm, well-drained gravel & limestone soils
–> inclusion of CF & occasionally some CS
2. vineyards on the escarpment to the south & east
–> clay limestone soils
The most prestigious wines of S-E come from sub-region 1&2
–> medium to high tannins
–> soft & rich mouthfeel
–> complex red berry fruit & plum aromas
–> developing tobacco & cedar notes as they evolve
3. vineyards at the foot of the escarpment
–> sandy soils
–> lighter-bodied
–> less prestigious wines
Pomerol
- the reputation is as high as that of Saint-Émilion
- tend to be richer, with a spicier, blackberry fruit character
vins de garage & garagiste
- movemente particularly associated with these appellations
- full-bodied, incredibly ripe wines
- made in tiny quantities from small plots of land
- with no expense spared in the vineyard or the winery
- many of them are now famous in their own right & have been classified within the Saint-Émilion appellation system
The wines of Saint-Émilion & Pomerol
Saint-Émilion
1&2: plateau to the north & west of the town of Saint-Émilion, & escarpment to the south & east
- medium to high tannins
- soft & rich mouthfeel
- complex red berry fruit & plum aromas
- developing tobacco & cedar notes as they evolve
3: foot of the escarpment
- lighter-bodied
Pomerol
- the reputation is as high as that of Saint-Émilion
- tend to be richer, with a spicier, blackberry fruit character
vins de garage
- full-bodied, incredibly ripe wines
- made in tiny quantities from small plots of land
- with no expense spared in the vineyard or the winery
vins de garage & garagiste
- movemente particularly associated with Saint-Émilion & Pomerol
- full-bodied, incredibly ripe wines
- made in tiny quantities from small plots of land
- with no expense spared in the vineyard or the winery
- many of them are now famous in their own right & have been classified within the Saint-Émilion appellation system
- vins de garage: the wines
- garagiste: the winemaker
Côtes de Bordeaux
- a group of lesser-known red wine appellations that have agreed to share the name Côtes de Bordeaux
- Blaye, Cadillac, Castillon & Francs
- tend to be Merlot based & meant for early drinking
- best: can offer excellent value for money
- the producers in Côtes de Bourg who make wines of a similar style chose NOT to join this group
- Note that Premières Côtes de Bordeaux is a sweet wine appellation, unconnected with the Côtes de Bordeaux group
Premium dry white wines in Bx
- a few appellations are permitted to produce dry white wines
Entre-Deux-Mers:
- a large appellation located between the Rivers Garonne & Dordogne
- can only produce white wines
(red must be labelled with a generic appellation name)
- tends to be made from SB in an unoaked style
Graves:
- permitted to produce both white a red wines
- tends to be made from SB in an unoaked style
Pessac-Léognan:
- permitted to produce both white a red wines
- the home of many of the very best dry whites
- may be eligible for cru classé status
- tends to be blends of SB & Sémillon
- usually fermented and/or matured at least partly in new oak
- medium-full body & toasty oak flavours
Médoc & Sauternes:
- also produce premium dry whites
- cannot be sold using these appellations –> generic BX app.
Sweet wines in Bx
(where, how, grapes, best wines)
Where:
- the top sweet wine appellations of Bx are grouped on the banks of the Garonne and its tributary the Ciron
- the best wines come from Sauternes
(the west bank of the Garonne)
- Within Sauternes lies the village of Barsac
(can use either appellation Barsac or Sauternes)
- there are a number of other sweet wine appellations near Sauternes that are made in a similar style
How:
- ideal misty autumn conditions for noble rot to develop on fully ripened grapes
- the level of noble rot in the vy varies from year to year
- Passerillage is needed to help concentrate sugars in years when there is little noble rot
Grapes:
- Sémillon dominates (thin skin, susceptibility to botrytis)
- SB supplies refreshing acidity & fruity aromas
- Muscadelle, where used, adds exotic perfume
the best wines tend to be
- high in alcohol
- sweet
- balanced by high acidity
- display the apricot & citrus peel aromas of noble rot
- notes of toast & vanilla
(from oak fermentation and/or maturation)
Sweet wines in Bx
(where)
Where:
- the top sweet wine appellations of Bx are grouped on the banks of the Garonne and its tributary the Ciron
- the best wines come from Sauternes
(the west bank of the Garonne)
- Within Sauternes lies the village of Barsac
(can use either appellation Barsac or Sauternes)
- there are a number of other sweet wine appellations near Sauternes that are made in a similar style
Sweet wines in Bx
(how)
How:
- ideal misty autumn conditions for noble rot to develop on fully ripened grapes
- the level of noble rot in the vy varies from year to year
- Passerillage is needed to help concentrate sugars in years when there is little noble rot
- oak fermentation and/or maturation
Sweet wines in Bx
(grapes)
Grapes:
- Sémillon dominates (thin skin, susceptibility to botrytis)
- SB supplies refreshing acidity & fruity aromas
- Muscadelle, where used, adds exotic perfume
Sweet wines in Bx
(wines)
the best wines tend to be
- high in alcohol
- sweet
- balanced by high acidity
- display the apricot & citrus peel aromas of noble rot
- notes of toast & vanilla
the soil in Bx
Left Bank
- Bas-Médoc: predominantly clay soil but outcrops of gravel
- Haut-Médoc: gravelly
- Pessac-Léognan: gravelly
Right Bank
- Saint-Émilion
-> plateau n&w of S-É: well-drained gravel & limestone
-> on the escarpment to the s&e: clay limestone
-> foot of the escarpment: sandy soils
