1.1.2:temporal variations influence on coastal environments Flashcards

1
Q

Rapid processes

3

A

tides
waves
currents

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2
Q

Tides motion

A

Periodic rises and falls

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3
Q

High tide

A

When the earth’s surface is close to the moon it pulls on the water and causes it to rise = high tide

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4
Q

Low tide

A

When the earth’s surface is further from the moon, the impacts of this gravitational pull is less = low tide

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5
Q

Spring tide

A

Big tide

When the sun, moon and earth are all in a straight line = the tide raising force is the strongest

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6
Q

Neap tide

A

Twice a month, little tide, the moon and sun are positioned at 90 degrees to each other in relation to the earth

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7
Q

The Earth orbits the sun

A

365 days = one orbit

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8
Q

The moon orbits the earth

A

28 days

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9
Q

Diurnal

A

daily

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10
Q

semi-diurnal

A

2 high tides and 2 low tides a day approx.

every 24 hours

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11
Q

diurnal tides

A

1 high tide and 1 low tide a day

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12
Q

Tidal ranges

3

A

macro-tidal
meso-tidal
micro-tidal

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13
Q

Macro-tidal

A

more than 4m

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14
Q

Meso-tidal

A

2 to 4m

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15
Q

Micro-tidal

A

less than 2m

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16
Q

Destructive wave

A

weak swash, strong backwash

17
Q

Constructive waves

A

strong swash, weak backwash

18
Q

Factors affecting waves

3

A

beach gradient
fetch
wind

19
Q

What forms waves

A

the wind

20
Q

How does the wind form waves?

A

Frictional effect on seawater = motion on upper surface of water.
The waves break coz they reach the shallower part of the shore = waves change shape which produces different types of breaking wave

21
Q

Types of currents

4

A

Tidal
Shore normal
Rip
Longshore

22
Q

Tidal currents

A

Water floods the intertidal zone at high tide, moving and depositing sediment and then as the tide falls (ebb tide) sediment moves in the reverse direction.

23
Q

Shore normal currents

A

Waves align parallel to the coastline, pushing water straight up the beach.

24
Q

Rip currents

A

Water returning directly (after shore normal currents) away from the shore can form strong, fast-moving channels of water.

25
Q

Longshore currents

A

Waves approach the shoreline at an oblique angle but return straight down the beach moving sediment parallel to the shore.