Waves And Tides Flashcards

1
Q

Tides are caused by:

A

The gravitational pull of the moon and the sun

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2
Q

Neap tides are when the tidal range is:

A

At its lowest.

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3
Q

Neap tides occur at what stage in the lunar cycle?

A

At quarter moons

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4
Q

Spring tides occur at what stages in the lunar cycle?

A

At the new moon and the full moon

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5
Q

What celestial body has the greatest effect on tides?

A

The moon

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6
Q

The Fundamental Equilibrium Tide model is:

A

A theoretical model in which all landmass is

removed from the earth and friction between

the seafloor and the water is removed.

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7
Q

Spring tides are when the tidal range is:

A

At its highest.

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8
Q

Waves that move freely on the ocean

surface are called:

A

Progressive waves

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9
Q

Forces that return the ocean surface

to its normal configuration are called:

A

Restoring forces

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10
Q

The path of a water molecule in a progressive

wave is best described as:

A

A circular orbit in the direction of the wave

with only a slight net forward movement.

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11
Q

Waves that are static at intervals and oscillate

vertically in between those points are called:

A

Standing waves

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12
Q

Standing waves are caused when a

vertical barrier is located at ______.

A

The crest or trough

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13
Q

Wave height is determined by 3 factors. These are:

A

Wind speed, wind duration, and fetch

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14
Q

Fetch is defined as:

A

The distance over water that wind blows

in a single direction.

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15
Q

A point of almost zero tidal fluctuation

on the ocean surface is called:

A

an Amphidromic point

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16
Q

In the wave equation, C equals L divided by T.

What are the variables C, L, and T?

A

C, L, and T are wave speed, wavelength, and

wave period respectively.

17
Q

What kinds of waves transmit energy through all states of matter?

A

Longitudinal waves

18
Q

The two basic types of wave motion for

mechanical waves are:

A

Longitudinal and Tranverse

19
Q

In a _________ wave the particle displacement

is parallel to the direction of wave propagation.

The particles do not move with the wave; they simply

oscillate back and forth about their individual

equilibrium positions.

A

Longitudinal

(Pick a single particle and watch its motion)

20
Q

In a ______ wave the particle displacement is perpendicular to the direction of wave propagation.The particles do not move along with the wave; they simply oscillate up and down about their individual equilibrium positions as the wave passes by.

21
Q

What is eustasy?

A

The rise and fall of sea level over time.

22
Q

In an area with mixed semidiurnal tides, how many
high tides occur during most days?

23
Q

When two large waves moving in opposite

directions meet they form a:

A

rogue wave

24
Q

The process of creating a rogue

wave is an example of:

A

Constructive interference

25
What is the generating force and the restoring force of sea swell?
The generating force is wind and the restoring force is gravity.
26
What is the name for a narrow seaward flow of water caused by waves breaking in the surf zone and piling up against the coast?
Rip tide
27
No matter which direction the wind is blowing, waves always approach a sloping beach about what angle to the shore?
90 degrees
28
What happens to the wavelength as an ocean wave moves from deeper to more shallow water?
The wavelength decreases
29
What is the name for tides that occur just after new moon and full moon, when the gravitation attraction of the sun and moon act in a direct line?
Spring tide
30
What are the three main types of ocean waves?
Ripples, seas and swells
31
What is the term for the tidal current that occurs when the height of the tide is decreasing?
Ebb tide
32
An ocean wave will break when the ratio of its height to its length is greater than what?
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