storms and waves

Question 1

what are storms

Answer 1

Strong surface motion in the ocean via storms and earthquakes - moving currents and organisms etc

Question 2

types of storms

Answer 2

types of storms: cyclones, hurricanes, typhoons, tropical storms, cyclonic storms, tropical depressions
• High activity areas
○ Tsunamis: caused by volcanic activity, mudslides, earthquakes
○ Misnomer not tidal waves, but can cause extensive damage - not a wave that comes from the tides
○ Why are tsunamis causing such an impact?
Waves slow down as they enter continental shelf
§ Amplitude increases

Question 3

wave trough

Answer 3

drawbabck

Question 4

why volcanic activity in sea

Answer 4

vast deposit of methane inside of ocean

Question 5

what creates waves

Answer 5

• created by wind pushing tiny crests
• eddies reinforce, H2O moves in circles
wind does not move the body of H2O – energy is stored and transported by ocean.

Question 6

what are waves defined by

Answer 6

• Waves are defined by: 
		○ Their period 
		○ Their wavelength 
		○ Their height 
		○ Their velocity 
The H2O depth

Question 7

what is wave height determined by

Answer 7

○ Wind velocity
○ Wind duration
○ Wind fetch
e.g. highest in the pacific

Question 8

wave geometry?

Answer 8

H: distance crest to trough 
L: distance between crests/troughs 
T: period, time of passage of crests 
V: speed of crests 
V= L/T
orbits decrease with increasing water depth 
waves break at HIL > 1/7 
waves stack, ht. + steepness increases, orbits 
become elliptical

Question 9

longshore currents/undertow

Answer 9

undertow is the under-current that is moving offshore when waves … Longshore current – A current parallel to the shoreline caused by waves
• Goes through these channels in the sediment

Question 10

winter vs summer profile

Answer 10

• Seasonality in the ocean - winter and summer effects

* Sculpting effect -dredging sand and shooting it onto the beach