Shoreline Flashcards
a common boundary where different parts of a
system interact.
Interface
A group of interacting or interdependent parts that
form a complex whole
System
the area that extends between the lowest tide level
and the highest elevation on land that is affected by storm
waves
Shore
- the area exposed when the tide is out (low tide)
and submerged when the tide is in (high tide)
-region between mean high water and mean
low water marks of the tides
Foreshore
the area that extends inland from the shore as far as
ocean-related features can be found.
Coast
the area landward of the high-tide shoreline.
backshore
the line that marks the contact between land
and sea
Shoreline
– this marks the coast’s seaward edge, whereas
the inland boundary is not always obvious or easy to
determine
Coastline
the zone that lies between the low-tide
shoreline and the line where waves break at low tide
Nearshore Zone
the zone seaward of the nearshore zone.
Offshore Zone
is an accumulation of sediment found along the
landward margin of the ocean or a lake.
Beach
a ridge at the top of the beach that marks the
division between the foreshore and backshore area
Berm
wet sloping surface that extends from the
berm to he shoreline
Beach Face
the built up clasts that are washed up
the beach at the top of the foreshore, a back-beach gravel
ridge that is a distinctive feature of gravelly beaches
Beach Dune Ridge
– the low-lying areas adjacent to seas. They
are part of the continental environment where there are fluvial, alluvial or aeolian processes of sedimentation and pedogenic modification
Coastal Plain
the extensive area of beach deposits lies
directly adjacent to the coastal plain
Strand Plain
typically have relatively steep gradients where a lot of the wave energy is reflected back into the sea from
the shoreline, both bedrock and loose material may be removed from the coast and redistributed by wave, tide and current processes
Erosional Coastline or Reflective Coast
gradient is normally relatively gentle and a lot of the wave energy is dissipated in shallow water: provided that there is a supply of sediment, these dissipative coasts can be sites of accumulation of sediment
Depositional Coastline or Dissipative Coast
develop either because an area experiences uplift or as a result of a drop in sea level.
Emergent Coast
created when sea level rises or the land adjacent to the sea subsides
Submergent Coast
are energy traveling along the interface between ocean and atmosphere, often transferring energy from
a storm far out at sea over distances of several thousand kilometers
Ocean Waves
– the top of a wave.
Crest
separates two crests
Trough
halfway between crest and trough
Still Water Level
vertical distance between crest and trough
Wave Height
horizontal distance between successive crest
Wave Length
The time it takes one full wave (one wavelength) to pass a fixed position
Wave Period
when critical point is reached where waves grow
so tall that they topple over, forming ocean breakers
White Caps
waves that are lower in height and longer in length and may carry thestorm’s energy to distant shores
Swell
movement of waves as the water passes the energy
along by moving in circle
Circular Orbital Motion
depth equal to one half the wavelength measured from still water level
Wave Base
turbulent water created by breaking waves
Surf
when turbulent sheet of water from collapsing breaks moves up the slope of the beach.
Swash
when water flows back down the beach towards the surf zone when the energy of the swash has been expended
Backwash
the impact of waves as it crashes along the shorelines
Wave Impact
The sawing and grinding action of water armed with rock fragments
Abrasion
-net loss or addition of sand depends on the wave activity
-mostly done by the swash and backwash action of
waves
Movement Perpendicular to the Shoreline
bending of waves
-As most waves travel to shore at an angle, they are bent when they reach the shallow water of a smoothly sloping bottom and tends to move parallel to the shore.
Wave Refraction
when the movement of water transporting sediments is in a zigzag pattern along the beach face.
Beach Drift
currents that flows parallel to the shore
Longshore Current
unconfined flow across the ocean bottom where backwash flows back to the open ocean
Sheet Flow
concentrated movements of water that flow in the opposite direction from breaking waves
Rip Current
cliffs formed due to the cutting action of the surf against the base of coastal land
Wave Cliffs
a relatively flat, bench like surface
Wave Platform
wave-cut platforms uplifted by tectonic forces
Marine Terrace
ridges separating the valleys remain above sea level and project into the sea
Headland
when two caves on opposite sides of a headland unite
Sea Arch
isolated remnants formed when sea arch falls in
Sea Stack
formed due to the further weathering of sea stack
Sea Stump
an elongated ridge of sand that projects from the land into the mouth of an adjacent bay
Spit
– sandbar that completely crosses a bay, sealing it off from
the open ocean
Baymouth Bar
ridge of sand that connects an island to the mainland or to another island
Tombolo
barrier of sediments that separates a lagoon from the open sea
Barrier
barrier that is partially attached to a land.
Barrier Spit
– barrier the is wholly attached to a land
Welded Barrier
isolated barrier
Barrier island
are daily changes in the elevation of the ocean
surface.
Tide
occurs when the sun and the moon are aligned causing larger tidal bulges (higher high tides) and deeper tidal troughs (lower low tides), thus, producing a large tidal range
Spring Tide
horizontal flow of water accompanying the rise and fall of the tide
Tidal Current
tidal currents that advance into the coastal
zone as the tide rises.
Flood Current