Port Flashcards
Describe the soil of the Port region
- Schistose soil with some Granite round the edges
- Mixture of Clay and broken Schist
- Medium Nutrients and can retain some humidity
- Pre Cambrian Schist turned vertical allows vine roots to travel deep down through cracks to water table below
- Acidic soil pH 4.6~5.5
Summarise the crushing and fermentation process (incl Portuguese names) up until Brandy is added
i ‘Corte’ (Cut) Crushing of grapes - 2~3 hours manual or mech
ii Indigenous yeasts kick in
iii ‘Liberdade’ (Liberty) = Fermentation starts, heat (28~30c) and alc releases Colour, Tannin and Aromas.
iv Mech continues or if manual ‘Macacos’ (long wooden plungers) used to keep cap submerged by Punch Down
How is Rose Port matured?
Briefly in Stainless steel
How many black grapes are approved for Port production?
What are the 5 most important grapes and what % of production do they total?
Around 30 varieties approved 2% Touriga Nacional 20% Touriga Franca 16% Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo 12% Tinta Barroca ??% Tinta Cao
Tinta Cao
One of oldest varieties in the Douro
Good in Hot Dry conditions
Small bunches of grapes = lo yields
Crisp acidity, Velvety tannins, potential to age
What grape varieties are most commonly used to make white port
Simply describe them
Malvasia - Elegant, Nutmeg, Smoke
Rabigato - Quite heat resistant, Acidity, Aromatics
Viosinho - Hi quality, Lo yield, Hi Acid, Fruity
Gouveio - Early ripen, Peach, Citrus
Main Port Markets 2017?
Value
Portugal 19.4%
France 19.2%
UK 13.2%
Netherlands 11.1%
What is the Beneficio?
Beneficio ou Aguardentação - The adding of grape brandy to fermenting wine
Beneficio - Total amount of Port that can be made in a single year managed by dictating how much Aguardente each grower can buy
1947 - Moreira de Fonseca - Pontuation System - Vineyards A~F
Based on grading and ha = how much Aguardente can be purchased each year
Describe Baixo Corgo Location Centered on Total vineyard area and vine plantings % contribution to Port prodn Climate Port grapes produced
Starting 80km East of the Atlantic coast
The most Westerly and original Port region
Centered on Regua
45k ha total area / 15k ha under vine / 13k ha Port vines
Approx 50% of total Port production
Wettest and coolest Port region av 900mm rain annually
Mainly lighter, less intensely flavoured grapes for ‘Fine’ Ruby and Tawny
Are Port grapes varieties normally fermented separately or together?
Normally together in a ‘Field’ blend
Trade organisations AEVP AVEPOD UniDouro ANCEVE Casa do Douro IVDP
AEVP - Represents larger producers
AVEPOD - Represents smaller producers
UniDouro - Represents co-op sector
ANCEVE - Represents producers and exporters
Casa do Douro - Represents growers. Intermediary between growers and shippers
IVDP - Overall control of production and promotion of Port.
Own the Beneficio system
Port sales VOLUME 2017
Split Standard / Premium
75.1 m litres
Standard 77%
Premium 23%
Port grape farming How many farmers grow Port grapes? How many vineyard plots? Av size of a vineyard plot? But ........? Where are bigger vineyards more commonly found?
>21k Port grape farmers >114k individual vineyard plots Av vineyard plot size 2.0ha BUT many <0.5ha Larger vineyards can be found in Douro Superior
How is White Port Matured?
What is Sweet white Port called?
2~3 yrs in Oak vats
Lagrima
Fine Tawny
Basic Tawny
Often a blend of Young Ruby and White Ports
Aged Large Oak vats 2~3 yrs
Vanilla, Orange, Rich fruits
Ruby Port
Aged 2~3 yrs S. Steel or large Oak vats
Filtered
Rich, full body, red fruits
Colheita
Single vintage Tawny Port
As with Vintage Port Colheitas only “declared” after approval by the I.V.D.P.
Min 7 yrs in ‘Pipes’ but in reality up to 50 yrs
Some Colheitas from the 1800’s that are still aging in small oak barrels in Portugal!
Bottled when producer believes ready to drink, should be drunk soon after
May be multiple bottling’s from each vintage
Bottle shows date of harvest ‘Colheita’ and bottling date
Served lightly chilled; 10~12c. Palate intense and powerful. Notes of molasses, caramel, dried apricot, figs, nuts and clove, Orange zest freshness and fine tannins delivering a long finish.
Kopke consider themselves the leaders in Colheita but other good examples from Niepoort, Quinta do Noval, Taylors, Barros, Delaforce
What is the Baumé of Port grapes at start of fermentation
What is Baumé at finish i.e. when fortified?
Start 12~13.5 Bé
Finish 6~8 Bé
Main Port Markets 2017?
Volume
France 26% Mainly low end
Portugal 17%
Netherlands 14%
UK 12%
Vineyards for Port are graded Who grades ‘em and how often? How many grades, what are the grades? How often are the vineyards graded? 4 Natural factors of grading? 4 Human factors of grading? What do the grades ultimately dictate?
6 grades, A Best —> F
Max points avail 1,761, A = >1200
Graded periodically by IVDP (Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto)
Natural: Soil, Slope, Altitude, Location
Human: Grape Variety, Planting density, Vine Age, Yields
Ultimately controls how much Port can be made by dictating how much Aguardente can be purchased allocation made annually
In the Port winery why is rapid extraction necessary?
How long have you got?
Colour and tannin needs to be extracted in 2~3 days
Draining off skins for fortification at 6~8% abv
Tannin most soluble in alcohol but can’t allow alcohol to reach high levels for natural extraction so has to be ‘forced’!
How are Ruby, Quality Ruby and Tawny Ports matured?
What happens during the maturation process?
Ruby - Maintain primary fruit character. Mature S. Steel or Large Oak
Quality Ruby - Large Oak Vats
NB Large Casks 25~35k litres / Vats 55k~75k litres
Tawny - 550l Oak Casks - Pipes
As Port matures Tannins soften and colour evolves
Garrafeira Port
Single Vintage wines
3~6yrs in Oak + MINIMUM 8yrs in 5~10 Ltr demijohns
Usually aged much longer; 20, 30, 40yrs
Has depth of fruit and silky texture of Tawny Port
Bottle must show dates of Harvest, Bottling, Decanting
Sogrape
Founded 1942 - Guedes family owned
Owner of Mateus
Offley, Ferreira, Sandeman
Touriga Franca
Also known as Touriga Francesca
Most widely planted variety 20% of plantings
Consistent and reliable, used for quality Port
Aromatic and floral, Black berry fruit, Firm velvety tannins, Good colour, Elegant
Reserve Ruby Port
Aged up to 5yrs in large Oak vats
Longer ageing gives more colour and depth
Rich, full body, fresh red/black fruits
Touriga Nacional
2% of growth. Considered finest grape in Douro.
Used for finest Ports and Vintage
Nearly extinct 1970’s but bought back by producers
Mostly grown producers own Quintas
Growers hate it, low yields - 20hl/ha
Intense Black Fruit, Natural acidity, Deep colour, very aromatic,
firm tannins.
Describe the climate in The Douro
Planting locations and orientation
Usual planting altitude?
Climate - Hot Continental, Cold wet Winters and, usually, hot dry Summers but can be disrupted by unpredictable rain.
Also risk Summer / Autumn Hail
Temp usually >35c but regularly hit mid 40s or even spike to 50c in extreme.
Planting - Side valleys and main valley Douro River, N, S, E, W orientation
North good as provides some release from heat
Planting at 90~500m, lower altitude better as shown by Beneficio points allocation
How is Rose Port made?
How served?
Who introduced and when?
Made with lightly macerated red grapes
Cold soak before fermentation @ 14~16c
Drunk young 1~2yo and served lightly chilled @ 10~12c
Intro by Croft (Taylor Fladgate) in 2008
Quinta do Noval
Founded 1715
Located Pinhao Valley
1993 purchased by AXA Insurance
Huge investment in vineyards and winemaking, significant replanting Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinto Cão
Own vineyards to meet 60% of needs, rest bought in
Most prestigious plot ‘Nacional’ 2.5ha ungrafted vines, mixed grapes
1931 Nacional Vintage considered finest Vintage ever Vintage Port
Key Producers / Shippers (5)
Symington Family Estates - 1882 Family owned
Graham’s, Cockburn’s, Dow’s, Warre’s
Quinta do Vesuvio
The Fladgate Partnership orig Taylors 1692 Family owned
Taylor’s, Croft, Fonseca, Krohn
Quinta de Vargellas
Sogrape 1942 Guedes Family owned
Offley, Ferreira, Sandeman
Niepoort 1842 Family owned
Created Garrafeira Port category, 1st bottling 1931
Quinta do Noval 1715 now owned AXA Insurance
Created LBV sector in 1958 releasing 1954 LBV
These steep river valley sides, how are they managed?
What are the pros / cons?
Socalcos - Trad walled terraces, 2 rows wide, 7k vine ha
+No erosion, visual appeal, used on any slope
-No Mech, Huge cost to maintain, risk of damage: age, Thunderstorms
Patamares - Intro 1980’s Ramps bound together by vegetation
Lower density; 3~4K ha vines
+Some mech, Use on any slope
-Erosion, low vine density 3~4K ha, need chemical weed control
Vinha Ao Alto-Vertical planting, vines run up/down slope, 4.5~5k vine ha
+Mech, easy weed control, less need to move earth
-Erosion, 30 Deg slope max
What are the 4 potential ways to work Port grapes?
According to who which process is best and by how much?
Traditional Lagares; Granite troughs of varying size. Can be whole bunch but usually de-stemmed grapes trodden by foot. Largely replaced by machines
Robotic Lagares - Silicone pads mimic feet - Symington Family Est Late 1990’s
Punch down vats (Port toes) mimic feet Fladgate Partnership Late 1990s
Autovinifiers
Adrian Bridge, CEO Fladgate Partnership stated Trad Foot Treading was 2% better than Mech - May ‘14
Tinta Roriz
Tempranillo
2nd most planted after Touriga Franca @16% of plantings
Large berries = relative hi yields
@ best in dry years
Aromatic, Red berry fruit, Thick Tannins, Long ageing potential = Elegance and complexity
Where is the Port region located?
What protects the Douro region from Atlantic influence?
West —> East what are the regions?
How many ha are approved for Port grape production?
North East Portugal, centred on the Douro River and its tributaries
Serra do Marao Mntns (1,400m)
Baixo Corgo
Cima Corgo
Douro Superior
26k ha approved for Port grape production
3 Pros and 2 cons of Beneficio
Major side effect of system?
+ Avoids over production = avoid oversupply price down
+ Keeps Supply and demand in balance
+ Ensures small grape growers a share of industry profitability
- Keeps price of Port grapes high (4x€ of normal wine grapes)
- No quality incentive, can sell grapes anyway
Effect = active trading in place for Beneficio rights
Until when did Port have to be matured where?
Traditionally how did Port get to that place?
What was one risk associated with maturing Port in the Douro?
Until 1986 Port had to be matured in Villa Nova de Gaia
Much Port now matured in air con lodges in the Douro
Traditionally Port was shipped down river in boats; Barcos Rabelo, later superseded by trucks. Villa Nova de Gaia was getting knackered!
Douro bake, almost light maderisation, wines lose colour and develop caramelised flavours.
The Fladgate Partnership
Family owned
Originally Taylors 1692
2001 Taylor Fonseca purchased Croft and re-named The Fladgate Part
Taylor’s, Croft, Fonseca, Krohn & Quinta de Vargellas
Taylor’s Vintages are highly respected
631ha 1.4 million vines 33% share of Premium Port sector
Introduced ‘Port Toes’ Punch down vats late 1990’s
Popularised LBV sector (Quinta do Noval created the sector)
Croft created Rosé Port, launched 2008
Aged Tawny
Aged Oxidatively in 550l ‘Pipes’ for Min 6yrs
Tawny Reserve/Reserva - min 7yrs
With indication of age; 10, 20, 30, 40yrs age is av age of Port in bottle
Date of bottling must be shown as start to deteriorate - drink soon
Main differences between Red and White Port making?
What’s Sweet white Port called?
White - little or no skin contact
Therefore fermented using Commercial yeasts
Sweet white port = Lagrima
Describe Cima Corgo Location Centered on Total vineyard area & vine plantings % contribution to Port prodn Climate Port grapes produced
Central region East of Baixo Corgo
Heartland of Port Demarcation Centered on Pinhao
Home of most Quintas
Total 95k ha / 20k ha under vine / 10k ha Port grapes
37% of Port production
Hotter than Baixo Corgo and less rain 700mm annually
Results in lower yields but more concentrated grapes best for hi quality Tawny, LBV and Vintage Port
Viticulture
Extensive re-planting when and why?
Most common rootstock?
How are older / newer vines pruned / trained?
Extensive re-planting end 19th century after Phylloxera epidemic
Rootstocks - Rupestris du Lot and 110R popular as quite drought resistant
Old vines - Single/double Guyot pruned, wire trained
Newer vines - Spur pruned cordons, VSP trained
Difference Vintage Port and Single Quinta Vintage
- Vintage aged max 2yrs then released for ageing
- Single Quinta aged 2~3yrs before bottling unfiltered then normally held 8~10yrs ‘till ready to drink
- Vintage Port av 3 each decade, only outstanding years
- Single Quinta often release every year, made good, not necessarily outstanding years
- No Single Quinta from big producers in Vintage Port years as grapes or wine are ‘given up’ for the main Vintage Porta
Niepoort
1842 Dutch Family owned
Created Garrafeira category, first bottling 1931
Symington Family Estates
Founded 1882 Family owned 4 generations
Graham’s, Cockburn’s, Dow’s, Warre’s
Quinta do Vesuvio
Largest vineyard holding in Portugal - 2,461 ha 26 estates
32% share Premium market
Own 2 x large wineries in Regua and Pinhao - produce mainstream wines
Introduced Robotic Lagares 1990s
Also 7 x small specialist wineries @ most important Quintas
Also minor shareholders Madeira Wine Company
Port yields, what are the max permitted yields for:
Black grapes?
White grapes?
What is the av yield for Black grapes?
Black 55 hl/ha
White 65 hl/ha
Reality, Black 30 hl/ha
The weather in the Port region can vary considerably from year to year, what actions are there to mitigate vintage variation?
‘Lei de Terco’ Law of the third, producers cannot sell more than 1/3 of their stock in any one year.
Using reserves producers can blend wines across 2~3 vintages for consistency
Describe White Port
ABV 16.5~17% abv Most aged 18mo but rare ones 10, 20, 30, 40 yo Gold colour Usually dry but sweet Lagrima style too Gouveio, Malvasia, Viosinho Incisive dry, nutty, tangy Dry ones drunk over ice with Tonic
Notable Port Vintages
1% of prodn, only in exceptional years 2016, 2011, 2007, 2003 1997, 1994, 1992, 1991 1985 (there were others but not as good) 1970, 1977 (there were others but not as good) 1963, 1966 (Classic vintages)
Tinta Barroca
Usually in cooler part of vineyard or Baixo Corgo
12% of plantings
Red berry fruit, Fragrant, Softness and Sweetness, Structure
What happens to Port before it goes into storage?
Each wine is assessed to decide potential for ageing and which style it is best suited to.
In reality, largely already decided due to grape classification and where the grapes came from
LBV Port
2 styles - Ready to drink (filtered) and Traditional (unfiltered)
Single Vintage
Matured in large Oak vats 4~6yrs before release
Rich, full body black fruits
What are the two types of Port?
Give a simple distinction between the two
Wood Matured and Bottle Matured
Bottle matured is is bottled unfiltered and will mature after sale
e.g. Vintage Port, Crusted Port, Single Quinta Ports
Wood matured is all other Ports
How big is a Traditional Lagare, what capacity and how many people does it take to work one?
Size varies but usually about 4m x 4m x 1m deep
Holds 10~15 Pipes = 5.5k~8.25k litres
Av 1~2 people per Pipe to tread
Therefore around 20 people treading the grapes
Vintage Port
Bottle matured Port
Only declared in best yrs. Av 3 vintage decade
Highest poss quality grapes, hi % Touriga Nacional
1% of Port sales
Aged large Oak max 2 yrs, bottled without filtration for further lengthy maturation.
Rich, full body, dark fruit, dried fruit, spice, leather and great complexity
Port
Originates from xx Century trade wars with Xxxxxx with punitive tax on Xxxxxx wines in xxxx (year) by Xxxxxxx 3rd
Astringent reds from Douro originally called Xxxxxxxxxx
xxxx (year) Xxxxxx monastery abbot added brandy for better transportation
xxxx (year) Xxxxxxx Treaty signed between UK and Portugal giving Portugal further tax advantages
xxxx (year) Xxxxxxx of Xxxxxx sets Douro boundaries to regulate production of Port
1st or 3rd demarcation in the world
Port
Originates from 17th Century trade wars with France with punitive tax on French wines in 1693 by William 3rd
Astringent reds from Douro originally called Blackstrap
1678 Lamego monastery abbot added brandy for better transportation
1703 Methuen Treaty signed between UK and Portugal giving Portugal further tax advantages
1756 Marquis of Pombal sets Douro boundaries to regulate production of Port
1st or 3rd demarcation in the world
When is harvest in the Douro?
Grape ripeness?
How are grapes harvested?
First actions in winery?
Harvest usually mid Sept but can be 1 month earlier / later depending on the year.
Av 13.5 Baumé / 13% Potential alc / pH 3.6~3.7 but depend grape variety
Most grapes are still hand picked
Acidification nearly always necessary due to extreme ripening temps
Port sales VALUE 2017
Split Standard / Premium
€378million
57% Standard
43% Premium
Crusted Port
Bottle Aged
First introduced by Symingtons
Blend of fine wines from several vintages
Aged 2yrs in Oak then bottled unfiltered and aged in bottle min 3 yrs before export.
Must be decanted
Target mkt - Vintage Port lovers who want to drink sooner
Single Quinta Port
Bottle Aged
Wine from a single estate either owned or by large shipper e.g.
Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas or Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos etc
Or a Quinta owned by a smaller producer e.g. Quinta de la Rosa
Bottled unfiltered after 2 yrs in large Oak vats.
Mature quicker than Vintage Ports, often held ‘till ready to drink 8~10yrs
Many Quintas declare Vintages every year but those owned by big growers may ‘give’ up wine in real Port Vintage years
Describe Douro Superior Location Centered on Total vineyard area & vine plantings % contribution to Port prodn Climate Port grapes produced
Furthest East of the Demarcation, running almost to Spanish border
Centered on Foz Coa
Total 110k ha / 10k ha under vine / 3.5k ha Port prodn
13% of Port grapes
Arid with lowest rainfall 400mm
Produces some of best, dark concentrated grapes in Douro, often used in Vintage and Premium Port blends
Douro Superior is the largest Douro area but with the lowest planting density
Why?
Will that ever change?
Last area to be planted because Douro river not navigable beyond Cima Corgo due to ferocious rapids.
In late 18th Century Rapids dynamited allowing river access to the region and plantings gradually started.
Likely more plantings in Douro Superior as younger people leave the land to work in cities labour shortages are happening. Douro Superior is flatter then Baixo and Cima Corgo and significantly easier to mechanise, hence the appeal for increased plantings
