Part 4 Flashcards
The most expensive wigs are constructed using
human hair
The root ends of hair with the cuticle placed in the same direction to prevent tangling is
turned hair
A hand-knotted wig constructed for a secure fit with an elasticized mesh fiber base is a
cap wig
The hand-tied method of wig construction resembles actual hair growth with
flexibility at the root area
A head-shaped form used for securing a wig is a
burn it with a match
When mounting a wig to a block, the wig should be pinned evenly using
T-shaped pins
When performing a haircutting procedure on a wig, the general goal is to make the wig
look realistic
When cutting a wig using a free-form method, move from longer to shorter lengths, working toward the
weight
Recommended styling products for wigs should be formulated for
color-treated hair
Before placing the wig on the head the hair should be
flat and even
When shampooing a wig, avoid shampoos that have a(n)
sulfur base
Synthetic hair colors used on wigs and hairpieces are standardized using
70 colors on the hair color ring
Prior to performing a color application on a wig or hairpiece, perform a
strand test
Hairpieces with base openings that allow a client’s hair to be pulled and blended are
integration hairpieces
A small wig for men used to cover the to and crown of the head is a
toupee
Hair additions secured to the base of natural hair that add length, volume, texture, or color are
hair extensions
Hair attached to an on-the-scalp braid that serves as the track is secured using a
track-and-sew method
When sewing an extension onto a track, the needle should be
straight or curves
The sewing stitch where the thread is wound around the needle twice is the
double-lock stitch
Attaching hair wefts or single strands with an adhesive or glue is a
bonding method
Hair that is bonded can be successfully shampooed provided it is done
gently
The fusion method of extensions requires that the bonding material be activated with
heat from a special tool
The fusion procedure involves wrapping both the client’s hair and a
keratin-based strip
A styling maintenance program educates clients in the use of
styling products
The chemical texture service that loosens overly curly hair into loose curls or waves is
curl re-formation
All chemical texture procedures involve changing the hair structure using
chemical and physical changes
The exterior hair structure layer that protects the hair from damage is the
cuticle
The layer of the hair that provides strength and elasticity is the
cortex
Hair bonds that cannot be broken by head or water are
disulfide bonds
The natural pH of hair is between
4.5 and 5.5
One of the most important parts of a successful texture service is the
client consultation
Permanent waves cannot be performed if the hair is coated with
metallic salts
Disulfide bonds are chemical-based side bonds that are formed when
sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together
The measurement used to determine the hydrogen ions in a solution is
potential of hydrogen
Chemical textuizers temporarily raise the pH of the hair by lifting the cuticle layer to
allow penetration to the cortex layer
Long, coiled polypeptide chains that are part of the hairs structure are
keratin proteins
The client record card should include a complete evaluation of the length, texture, color, and
condition of the hair
During the hair and scalp analysis procedure, the stylist should look for
abrasions or signs of scalp disease
Hair texture that requires a longer processing or rewetting of solution to ensure complete saturation is
coarse-textured hair
The measurement of the number of hairs per square inch on the head is
density
An indication of the strength of the side bonds is
elasticity
The second process of a permanent wave is the
chemical change process
In permanent waving, the size of the curl is determined by the
size of the rod
The permanent wave rod that produces a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand is a
straight rod
A wrapping technique using two endpapers, one placed under the strand and one over is the
double-flat wrap
Permanent wave rods are placed onto subsections of a panel called
base sections
The position of a permanent wave rod in relation to its base section is the
base placement
The technique of wrapping at a 90-degree angle or straight out from the center is
half-off base placement
The two basic types of wrapping hair around a perm rod are the spiral method and
croquignole method
A technique used to wrap extra-long hair using two rods in opposite directions is a(n)
piggyback wrap
A reduction reaction involves either the addition of hydrogen or removal of
oxygen
A common, colorless reducing agent used in chemical texture services is
thioglycolic acid
The main reducing agent in alkaline permanents is
ammonium thoglycolate
Most alkaline permanent waves have a pH between
9.0 and 9.6
The primary low pH reducing agent in acid waves is
glyceryl monothioglycolate
An exothermic chemical reaction produces
heat
The basic components of acid waves are permanent wave solution and
activator and neutralizer
An endothermic wave must be activated using a(n)
outside heat source
In permanent waving, the processing should be determined by the
strength of the solution
Hair that is too weak to hold a curl or may be completely straight after a perm is
over-processed
The process of stropping the action of permanent wave is
neutralization
Permanent wave solution should be rinsed from the hair for a minimum of
5 minutes
A 90-degree perm wrap that minimizes stress and tension on the hair is
half off base
The process of rearranging extremely curly hair into a straighter or smoother form is
chemical hair relaxing
In extremely curly hair, the thinnest and weakest sections of the hair strand are located at the
twists
Thio chemical relaxers usually have a pH value above
10
The active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers is the hydroxide
ion
All hydroxide relaxers can swell the hair up to
twice its normal diameter
Hydroxide relaxers remove one atom of sulfur from a disulfide bond converting it into a
lanthionine bond
Disulfide bonds broken by hydroxide relaxers can never be
re-formed
Hydroxide ions left in the hair after a relaxer can be neutralized using a(n)
acid-balanced shampoo
Relaxers containing one component used without any additional mixing are
metal hydroxide relaxers
Sodium hydroxide relaxers (NaOH) are commonly called
lye relaxers
A relaxer with two components mixed immediately prior to use is
guanidine hydroxide relaxer
Lithium hydroxide relaxers and potassium hydroxide relaxers are advertised and sold as
no-lye relaxers
Ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfite are marketed as
mild alternative relaxers
Cream used to protect the skin and scalp during a hair-relaxing process is
base cream
The strength of relaxers is determined by the concentration of
hydroxide
To avoid over processing during a retouch relaxer application, wait until the last few minutes of processing to apply relaxer to the area
closest to the scalp
Conditioners with an acidic pH that condition and normalize hair prior to shampooing are
normalizing lotions
Curl re-formation does not straighten the hair, it simply makes the existing curl
larger and looser
To avoid scalp irritation, prior to the application of a hydroxide relaxer never
shampoo the hair
To avoid excessive stretching of the hair when combing out tangles, use a
wide-toothed comb
Performing texture services involves powerful chemicals that must be handled with
caution
The term used to describe removing excess water before the application of a neutralizer is
blotting
When checking for test curl development, the test curl should reflect
firm S formation
When performing test curls, the rod should be unwound approximately
1 1/2 turn
Incorrect placement of the rubber band of perm rods will cause bands marks or
breakage
When working with hair that has been chemically relaxed, you should avoid
hot irons
A key factor in determining appropriate hair coloring services is understanding the client’s
motivation
Once a stylist demonstrates the ability to skillfully color a client’s hair, the client will generally
remain loyal
In choosing hair color for a client, a determining factor is the hair
structure
The layer of the hair that provides strength and elasticity is the
cortex layer
The outermost later of the hair that protects and provides strength is the
cuticle layer
In individual hair stands, hair texture is determined by the
diameter
Hair color applied to fine hair may look
darker
Hair coloring services on coarse-textured hair may take
longer to process
Hair with a tight cuticle resistant to moisture or chemicals is defined as having
low porosity
The predominant melanin that gives black or brown color to hair is
eumelanin
Pigment that lies under the natural hair color is the
contributing pigment
The lightness or darkness of a color is called the
level
The system used by colorist to analyze the lightness or darkness of a hair color is the
level system
Hair color levels are arranged on a scale from
1 to 10
Hair color tones can be described as
warm, neutral, and cool
Colors that absorb light and appear darker that their actual level are
cool colors
Warm tones reflect light and may appear
lighter
Colors that are described as sandy or tan are considered
natural tones
The first step in performing a hair color service is to identify
natural levels
Colors that we see are contained in the
visible light spectrum
Artificial hair colors are developed from the primary and secondary colors that form
base colors
A color that will help minimize orange tones in the hair is a
blue base colors
A system that is used to understand color relationships is the
law of color
Colors that are pure or fundamental and cannot be achieved from a mixture are
primary colors
The primary colors are
yellow, blue, red
The darkest and only cool primary color is
blue base colors
Red added to blue-based colors will cause them to appear
lighter
A color achieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring primary color is a
tertiary color
Equal proportions of primary colors will produce
black
A secondary color is obtained by mixing equal parts of two
primary colors
A primary and secondary color positioned opposite each other on the color wheel are
complementary colors
Complementary colors are used in color formulation to
neutralize each other
The process of diffusing natural color pigment or artificial color from the hair is
hair lightening
All permanent hair color products and lighteners contain an oxidizing agent and a(n)
alkalizing ingredient
A hair-lightening process occurs when the alkaline peroxide
breaks up the melanin
Temporary color pigment molecules do not penetrate because they are
large
Semi permanent hair color on average should last
4 to 6 weeks
Hair coloring that penetrates the hair shaft and is formulated to deposit but not lift color is
Demipermanent hair color
Demipermanent hair color is available in a variety of formulas including
creams, gels, and liquid
Uncolored dye precursors that can be diffused into the hair shaft are used in
permanent hair color formulas
Dye precursors that combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger tint molecules are
aniline derivatives
Although many semi permanent and Demipermanent colors use alkalizing agents other than ammonia, they are not necessarily any less
damaging
Permanent hair coloring products are mixed with
hydrogen peroxide
Permanent hair color products used for gray hair remove natural pigment and
add artificial color
To provide maximum lift in a one-process color service, most high-lift colors require
40 volume peroxide
Hair coloring products that change hair color by creating a progressive buildup contain
metallic colors
The most common developer used in hair coloring is
hydrogen peroxide
Lighteners are chemical compounds that lighten natural hair pigment by dispersing, dissolving, and
decolorizing
When hydrogen peroxide is mixed with a lighter formula, it releases
oxygen
During the decolorization process, natural hair can go through as many as
10 stages
Toners are used to achieve pale, delicate colors and are applied to create the correct degree of
contributing pigment
The test required by the U.S. Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act to determine client allergies or sensitivities is the
predisposition test
To determine how hair will react to a selected color formula perform a(n)
preliminary stand test
When selecting a semi permanent color, remember that color applied on top of color creates
a darker color
Permanent hair color applications are classified as double-process or
single-process
The application process that is used for the first-time color applications is
virgin application
Overlapping color can cause breakage and create a sign of roots or
line of demarcation
Double-process lightening is prelightening hair to a very blonde stage and applying a
toner
For a single-process color for virgin hair, the color processes fastest at
the scalp
Cream lighteners are formulated to be used
on the scalp
The three forms of hair lighteners are
oil, powder. And cream
An oxidizer added to hydrogen peroxide to increase its lifting power is a(n)
activator
A technique of coloring strands of hair darker that the natural color is
low lighting
A foil technique where a straight and narrow section of hair at the scalp is positioned for color or lightener application is
slicing
In the foil technique when selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with a zigzag motion of the comb, and lightener is applied in
weaving
When coloring for a client with 80 to 100 percent gray, the color levels that provide the best coverage are
level 7 and darker
To cover unpigmented hair in a salt-and-pepper client, the color formulation should be
two levels lighter than the natural level
Pretreating gray or very resistant hair to allow for better penetration is
presoftening
Preparations designed to equal porosity and deposit a base color in one application are
fillers
To increase the longevity of a professional color service and preserve the health of clients’ hair, the stylist should encourage them to use only
professional products
The signs of aging are influenced by factors such as the sun, health habits, lifestyle, and
heredity
The percentage of skin aging that is cause by the rays of the sun is approximately
80 to 85 percent
The UV rays of the sun reach the skin in two different forms, which are
UVA and UVB rays
The UVA rays that are deep-penetrating and can go through glass window are
aging rays
Wrinkling and sagging of the skin are caused by weakening collagen fibers and
elastin fibers
UVB rays contribute to the body’s synthesis of vitamin D and other important
minerals
Daily moisturizers or protective lotions should have a sunscreen with an SPF of at least
15
The American Cancer Society checklist used to recognize skin cancer is
asymmetry, border, color, diameter
A salon should not service a client who is suffering from a(n)
inflamed skin disorder
a small circumscribed elevation of the skin that contains no fluid but may develop pus is a
papule
An abnormal cell mass resulting from excessive multiplication of cells and varying in size, shape, and color is a
tumor
A crack in the skin that penetrates that dermis is a
fissure
Keratin-filled cysts that appear just under the epidermis and have no visible openings are
milia
Any thin plate of dry or oily epidermal flakes in the scalp area is referred to as
dandruff
Sebum from a comedo exposed to the environment turns black and
oxidizes
Comedones should be remove under aseptic conditions using proper
extraction procedures
A chronic skin condition characterized by inflammation of the sebaceous glands is
acne
An inflammation of the sebaceous glands characterized by dry or oily crusting or itchiness is
seborrheic dermatitis
A dry, scaly skin condition due to a deficiency or absence of sebum caused by oily age or exposure to the cold is
asteatosis
A disorder of the sweat gland caused by excessive exposure to the heat is
miliaria rubra
A painful itching skin disease with dry or moist lesions that are physician needs to treat is
eczema
A contagious recurring viral infection characterized by blisters on the lips or nostrils is
herpes simplex
The medical term for abnormal skin inflammation is
dermatitis
Prolonged or repeated direct skin contact with chemicals has the potential to cause
allergic reactions
The chemicals released by the immune system to enlarge the vessels around an injury are
histamines
Surprisingly, a very common salon irritant is
tap water
Abnormal brown or wine-colored skin discoloration with a circular and irregular shape is a
stain
The absence of melanin pigment from the body and skin sensitivity to light are signs of
albinism
A spot or blemish spot on the skin that requires medical attention if there is a change is a
mole
The most common type of skin cancer characterized by light or pearly nodules is
basal cell carcinoma
Hair removal approaches fail into two major categories, which are
temporary and permanent
Terms that refer to the overgrowth of hair on the body are hypertrichosis and
hirsuties
During the client consultation, all clients should complete a questionnaire that discloses skin disorders, allergies, and
medications
One of the main purposes of a client consultation is to determine the presence of any
contraindications
The removal of hair with electrical current that destroys the growth cells of the hair is
electrolysis
Intense light therapy used to destroy the growth cells of the hair follicles is
photoepilation
A rapid method of removing hair with the use of beams pulsed on the skin is
laser hair removal
An absolute requirement for laser hair removal is that the hair being removed must be
darker than the surrounding skin
In the nape area, the most common form of hair removal is usually performed using electric
clippers
A positive impact on the overall attractiveness of the face can be achieved with
correctly shaped eyebros
The natural arch of the eyebrow follows the
orital bone
