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College Geology > Lesson 13 > Flashcards

Lesson 13 Flashcards

1
Q

What constantly modifies the shoreline?

A

waves

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2
Q

What is the coastal zone experiencing today?

A

intense human activity

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3
Q

What is common boundary?

A

shoreline

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4
Q

What is a dynamic interface between air, land, and the ocean?

A

shoreline

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5
Q

What provide most of the energy that shapes and modifies shorelines?

A

Wind-generated waves

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6
Q

Where do waves derive their energy and motion from?

A

wind

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7
Q

What does the height, length, and period of a wave depend on?

A

Wind speed
Length of time wind has blown
Fetch

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8
Q

What is the distance between a trough and a crest?

A

Wave height

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9
Q

What is the time interval between the passage of two successive crests?

A

Wave period

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10
Q

What is used to measure a wave?

A

wave height
wavelength
wave period

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11
Q

What is the distance that the wind has traveled across open water?

A

Fetch

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12
Q

What is the horizontal distance between crests?

A

Wavelength

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13
Q

What is the top of the wave called?

A

crest

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14
Q

What is the low area between waves?

A

low area between waves

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15
Q

What are the types of waves?

A

Wave of oscillation

Wave of translation

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16
Q

What wave has energy that moves forward, but not the water itself?

A

Wave of oscillation

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17
Q

Where does waves of oscillation occur?

A

in open sea in deep water

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18
Q

What happens when the translation wave begins to form?

A

the wave begins to “feel bottom”

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19
Q

Where does a translation wave form?

A

shallow water

depth of 1/2 the wavelength

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20
Q

What happens to a translation wave as the speed and length diminish?

A

the wave grows higher

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21
Q

What collapses in a translation wave before it breaks along the shore?

A

steep wave front

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22
Q

What advances up the shore in a translation wave and forms a surf?

A

turbulent water

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23
Q

What is erosion from the great force of breaking waves caused by?

A

wave impact and pressure

abrasion by rock fragments

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24
Q

Where does wave refraction cause wave energy to concentrate?

A

against the sides and ends of headlands

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25
Q

Where does wave energy end up caused by wave refraction and what happens to the wave attack?

A

spread out in bays

weakened

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26
Q

What is wave retraction?

A

Bending of a wave

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27
Q

What causes waves to arrive nearly parallel to the shore?

A

wave refraction

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28
Q

What is the consequence of wave refraction overtime?

A

erosion straightens an irregular shoreline

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29
Q

What is waves that each the shoreline at an angle cause the sediment to move along a beach in a zigzag pattern?

A

beach drift

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30
Q

What waves also produce longshore currents?

A

Oblique waves

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31
Q

What does wave refraction do to sand?

A

moves it along the beach

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32
Q

What are longshore currents?

A

Currents in the surf zone

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33
Q

How do longshore currents flow?

A

parallel to the coast

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34
Q

What do longshore currents easily move and roll?

A

fine suspended sand

larger sand and gravel

35
Q

What factors caused shoreline features to vary?
_____along the shore
______
Wave _______
Whether the coast is _____, _______, or _____

A

rocks
currents
intensity
stable, sinking, or rising

36
Q

What are features caused by wave erosion?

A

Wave-cut cliffs

Wave-cut platform

37
Q

What are features associated with headlands?

A

Sea arch

Sea stack

38
Q

Features related to beach drift and longshore currents
______
________ of sand extending from the land into the mouth of an adjacent bay
Often the end of a spit ______in response to wave-generated currents

A

spits
Elongated ridges
hooks landward

39
Q

What are features related to beach drift and longshore currents?

A

Baymouth bar
Tombolo
Barrier islands

40
Q

What is a sand bar that completely crosses a bay?

A

Baymouth bar

41
Q

What is a ridge of sand that connects an island to the mainland or another island?

A

Tombolo

42
Q

What is the result of shoreline erosion and deposition if the shoreline remains stable?

A

produce a straighter coast

43
Q

Where are barrier island mostly found?

A

Atlantic and Gulf Coasts

44
Q

What are low ridges of sand that parallel the coast 3 to 30 kilometers offshore?

A

barrier islands

45
Q

How do barrier islands probably form?

A

in many ways

46
Q

Shoreline erosion is influenced by several local factors including:
______ to sediment-laden rivers
_______ of tectonic activity
________ and composition of the land
Prevailing _____ and _____patterns
Configuration of the ______ and nearshore areas

A 
Proximity
Degree
Topography
wind and weather
coastline
47
Q

What are the three basic responses to erosion problems?

A

Building structures
Beach nourishment
Abandonment and relocation of buildings away from the beach

48
Q

What are building structures that can be built?

A

Jetties
Groins
Breakwater
Seawall

49
Q

Are building structures often an effective means of protection?

A

no

50
Q

What building structure is
» Usually built in pairs to develop and maintain harbors
» Extend into the ocean at the entrances to rivers and harbors

A

Jetties

51
Q

What building structure is
» Built to maintain or widen beaches
» Constructed at a right angle to the beach to trap sand

A

Groins

52
Q

What building structure is
» Barrier built offshore and parallel to the coast
» Protects boats from the force of large breaking waves

A

Breakwater

53
Q

What building structure is
» Barrier parallel to shore and close to the beach to protect property
» Stops waves form reaching the beach areas behind the wall

A

Seawall

54
Q

What is the addition of large quantities of sand to the beach system?

A

Beach nourishment

55
Q

Beach nourishment is only an economically viable ______ solution if a few areas

A

long-range

56
Q

Shoreline erosion problems are ______ along the opposite coasts.

A

different

57
Q

Which coast has broad, gently sloping coastal plains?

A

Atlantic and Gulf coast

58
Q

Which coast has tectonically quiet regions?

A

Atlantic and Gulf coast

59
Q

Which coast has relatively narrow beaches backed by steep cliffs and mountain ranges?

A

Pacific Coast

60
Q

What is a major problem at the Pacific coast?

A

narrowing of many beaches

61
Q

What are barrier islands also called?

A

barrier beaches

coastal barriers

62
Q

Which coast as development that occurs mainly on the barrier islands that face the open ocean?

A

Atlantic and Gulf coast

63
Q

Which coast has shoreline erosion that varies considerably from one year to the next largely because of the sporadic occurrence of storms?

A

Pacific coast

64
Q

What coast receives the full force of storms?

A

Atlantic and Gulf coast

65
Q

What develops because of uplift of an area or a drop in sea level?

A

Emergent coasts

66
Q

What are features of an emergent coast?

A

Wave-cut cliffs

Wave-cut platforms

67
Q

What is caused by subsidence of land adjacent to the sea or a rise in sea level?

A

Submergent coast

68
Q

What are features of a submergent coast?

A

Highly irregular shoreline

Estuaries

69
Q

What are Estuaries?

A

They drown river mouths

70
Q

What are daily changes in the elevation of the ocean surface?

A

tides

71
Q

What causes tidal bulges?

A

gravitational forces of the Moon, and to a lesser extent the Sun

72
Q

What type of tide has a large daily tidal range?

A

spring tides

73
Q

What type of tide has the least daily tidal range?

A

neap tides

74
Q

What tide occurs during new and full moons?

A

spring tides

75
Q

What tides occur during the first and third quarters of the moon?

A

neap tides

76
Q

What tide occurs when gravitational forces of the Moon and Sun are added together?

A

spring tides

77
Q

What tide occurs when gravitational forces of the Moon and Sun are offset?

A

neap tides

78
Q

What tide is especially high and low tides?

A

spring tides

79
Q

What are other factors that influence tides?

A

Shape of the coastline

Configuration of the ocean basin

80
Q

What is the horizontal flow of water accompanying the rise and fall of the tide?

A

tidal currents

81
Q

What re the types of tidal currents?

A

Flood current

Ebb current

82
Q

What current advances into the coastal zone as the tide rises?

A

Flood current

83
Q

What current has seaward-moving water as the tide falls?

A

Ebb current

84
Q

What are areas affected by the tidal currents called?

What do tidal currents occasionally form?

A

tidal flats

tidal deltas

College Geology (14 decks)

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