L5: Raw Materials for Perfumery – Part 2 (Examples) & Consumer/Regulatory Information Flashcards
What are the two most commonly used animal ingredients?
Ambergris and Musk
How is ambergris like when it is fresh?
Black, greasy and mal-odorous
How is ambergris like after being exposed to air?
Hardened, grey and develops a pleasant aroma
What scent does ambergris give off?
Exotic, woody, incense-like, earthy, camphoraceous, tobacco-like, musk-like, smell of the ocean
What is another usage of ambergris other than a fragrance material?
Fixative
Briefly describe the process of the formation of ambergris.
- Sperm whale produces Ambriene in its intestinal tract.
- Excreted into the sea
- Upon exposure to air, seawater and sunlight, it undergoes degradative reactions to form Ambergris
- Can be extracted with alcohol to form tincture of ambergris
What is nature-identicals of ambergris made from, and what are some of the tradenames?
Prepared from Sclareol.
Tradenames:
- Amberlyn
- Ambrox
- Ambroxan
What is a synthetic ambergris substitute?
Karanal
What is musk like when fresh?
Oily, brown liquid
What is musk like when dried?
Grainy powder
What does musk smell like?
Animalic character with pyridinic and urinaceous odour
What is another usage of musk, other than providing a scent?
Fixative
What is the main odour component of musk?
Muscone
What are the 4 classes of synthetic musk?
- Nitromusk
- Polycyclic musk
- Macrocyclic musk
- Alicyclic musk
What is the 1st nitromusk called?
Musk Baur
Other than Musk Baur, what are some other examples of nitromusks?
- Musk Xylene
- Musk Ketone
What are some problems faced with nitromusks?
- Hazardous preparation method (as it contains nitro group)
- Some nitromusks are phototoxic
What are some examples of polycyclic musks?
- Tonalide
- Galaxolide
What are the advantages of polycyclic musks?
- More resistant to alkaline pH; can be formulated in products that are alkaline (eg. laundry detergent)
- Very stable and inert
- Bind to fabric well
What is the disadvantage of polycyclic musk?
Non-biodegradeable
What are some examples of macrocyclic musk?
Muscone, cyclopentadecanolide, ethylene brassylate, habanolide
What is the disadvantage of macrocyclic musks?
Costly and difficult to synthesize due to its large structure
What are the advantages of macrocyclic musks?
- High tenacity
- Biodegradeable
- Bind to fabric well
What is the characteristic of alicyclic musk?
Have both aliphatic and cyclic structures
What are some examples of alicyclic musk?
- Cyclomusk
- Helvetolide
- Romandolide
What is the definition of a cosmetic product in Singapore?
Defined as any substance or preparation that is intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body (eg. skin, hair, nails, lips, mouth including gums, teeth, tongue) for the purpose of cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, correcting body odours or protecting them or keeping them in good condition.
What are the labeling requirements of cosmetic products in Singapore?
- Name
- Function
- Instructions for use
- List of ingredients
- Country of manufacture
- Content by weight or volume (e.g. g, mL)
- Manufacturer’s batch number
- Name and address in Singapore of company responsible for placing product in the market
- Manufacturing date / expiry date* (only if expiry date is < 30 months durability)
- Special precautions, if any
The names of ingredients should be based on the most recent edition of:
- International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary
- Chemical Abstracts Service
- British Pharmacopoeia
- United States Pharmacopoeia
How should the ingredient list be like?
Listed in descending order
What does “alcohol-free” mean?
Do not contain ethanol, but may contain other alcohols such as fatty alcohols
What does “fragrance-free” mean?
Have no perceptible odour, but may contain fragrance ingredients to mask offensive odour originating from raw materials used
What does “non-comedogenic” mean?
Do not contain pore-clogging ingredients that could lead to acne
What does “cruelty-free” mean?
Implies that the final cosmetic product have not been tested on animals
What does “shelf-life” refer to?
Amount of time for which the cosmetic product is good under normal conditions of use and storage
What are some examples of prohibited ingredients?
- Benzene
- Diethylene glycol
- Mercury
- Chloroform
- Chlorofluorocarbons
- Tretinoin (drug)
- Antibiotics (drug)
What does “restricted” ingredients mean?
Subjected to restrictions and conditions:
- Type of product in which the substance is allowed
- Maximum concentration allowed in finished product
- Other limitations and requirements
- Warnings and precautions on label
What are some examples of restricted ingredients?
- Hydroquinone
- Musk ketone
- Calcium hydroxide
- p-Phenylenediamine
What are some unacceptable cosmetic claims?
– Removes scars – Prevents, heals, treats or stops acne – Prevents or reverses physiological changes brought about by aging – Eliminates dandruff permanently – Hair loss can be arrested or reversed – Stimulates hair growth
