L4: Raw Materials for Perfumery – Part 1 Flashcards
What are the 3 main types of raw materials in perfumery?
- Naturally-occuring
- Nature-identical
- Man-made
Essential oils can be obtained via which extraction method(s)?
- Steam distillation
- Expression
What are the products of steam distillation?
- Essential oils
- Floral water
Essential oils obtained via steam distillation is considered which note?
Top note (because it is extracted via volatile substances)
What is the starting material of expression?
Fruit peels
What is the extraction medium of enfleurage?
cold, purified fat
What are the 5 main extraction methods?
- Steam distillation
- Expression
- Enfleurage
- Solvent extraction
- Carbon dioxide extraction
What is the product from enfleurage?
Pomade (then later further processed into absolutes via alcohol extraction)
What is the product from solvent extraction?
Concrete/resinoids
Concretes can be further processed into absolutes via alcohol extraction
*Note: Can extract directly using alcohol if the starting material is dry
What is the nature-identical of jasmine?
- Jasmone
- Methyl jasmonate
What is a man-made analogue of methyl jasmonate?
Hedione (methyl dihydrojasmonate)
What is the man-made ingredient that has a fresh, water, aquatic note?
Calone
What are the 2 techniques used in perfumery research?
- Headspace analysis
2. ScentTrek
What are the 4 advantages of synthetic materials?
- Reasonable price
- Availability/Sustainability over natural ingredients
- Creative freedom
- Able to extend use to perfume other product lines
